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Re: FAGOR – Module and Timer board blown
Firstly, I’d recommend you to discount a washer-dryer unless space is at an absolute premium.
Commercial launderettes have separate machines for a very good reason!
A dual-purpose machine HAS to compromise on a number of parameters and this means that it’s never going to be a star-performer in either function.
the compactness of cramming both lots of “works” into one cabinet means that they’re a nightmare to service and repair, circuits are more complex, due to the necessity for each function to “talk” to the other (you don’t want to dry stuff when the machine is still full of water or spinning, for example)Think carefully about what you NEED from a machine. Sounds obvious, but “want ” and “need” are not the same!
Personally, I only ever seem to use 3 of the ~dozen programmes on the machine and have never ever used a rinse hold ,spin inhibit , crease-guard,or any other of these gimmicks.Cottons, Synthetics and woollens covers my wash groups , the odd item outside the scope of those, is a candidate for a hand-wash,as it is not going to go into a machine on it’s own..
Have you looked at the ISE machines?
They don’t have a lot of slick advertising but give you good, no-nonsense functional machines which offer the best deal at their price-point.
I appreciate the problem you face if you have severely restricted vision. -It sounds like the rotary-knob type programmer is the one for you…..a bit if creativity with the point of a drill/a file/ a hacksaw, should provide a touch-indicator as to the setting.
I think that if you contact the people in Scotland (Don?) using the ISE or find a spare links, you’ll get better help and advice than I can give.
Re: Trying to find a way out of the Washing Machine Swindle!
Sorry, May, I have been absent from the board for a bit. I have to say first, that I have no axe to grind, being just an enthusiastic DIY-er.
You are trying to do a semi-industrial job with a bottom-end ,light-duty domestic appliance.
On spec, it seems that you are caught in a vicious cycle of buying rubbish with a pretty useless “extended warranty”
You should buy the ISE 10 machines….read the blurb! they are Swedish -built, have an exceptionally low failure-rate under warranty and a 10-year guarantee which is underwritten.In short , they’re the “volvo estate” of the washing-machine world.
These guys just don’t have the huge margins that the big warehouse-outlets are able to squeeze out of the makers.My suggestion:- speak to a bank or finance-house to fund a capital purchase that’s about twice what you’re currently paying…..point out the huge admin saving you’ll make, the saving in compensation, aggro, stop-gap loans or launderette fees….whatever,- you will have happier tenants who will save on electricity and water, plus they’ll have less noise and disturbance.. you won’t need to waste time sourcing replacements, and extended warranties will cease to cost or give hassle…also the design is inherently abuse-resistant, which , again saves aggro, hassle and admin.
YOU CAN NOT JUSTIFY A CONTINUING PURCHASE-CYCLE OF RUBBISH MACHINES WITH RUBBISH EXTENDED WARRANTIES.
Jeez, I sound like a damned salesman…..but seriously, the other side , you’ll be supporting the local repairer in your local community and HE HAS A VESTED INTEREST IN KEEPING YOU HAPPY!
IMHO you are being foolish and wasting valuable resources by buying boy’s kit to do a man’s job. The ISE 10 is a semi-industrial machine and I’d be amazed if you didn’t average 15 years or more from them with little more than routine replacements of stuff like belts .
I don’t have an ISE myself, as I mend and use other people’s castoffs, but if I were in your predicament , I wouldn’t hesitate.
the financial, social, moral and administrative reasons are compelling.
Send your consultancy fee to the Forum administrators 😆
Re: over filled water
There is normally a pressure-switch which senses water-level.
To find it, you need to “open-up” the machine…..the switch is usually aboutthe size of a large coffee-jar lid, with several wires plugged-in to contacts on one side.
There is also an air-tube connected to it (push-fit and may have a clip as well…..the tube should be disconnected from the switch and blown down……if it’s not blocked,you may hear a bubbling noise….otherwise it needs unblockung, often it fits to a small reservoir near the bottom of the outer-drum….hot water in an old washing-up liquid bottle can sometimes be used to flush the build-up of soap-sludge.
UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST AND LEAVE FOR AT LEAST 20 MINUTES BEFORE DELVING INSIDE.DON’T BLOW HARD INTO THE PRESSURE-SWITCH , IT’S VERY SENSITIVE AND YOU’LL RUIN IT.
USE A DIGITAL CAMERA TO RECORD THE POSITION OF WIRES BEFORE YOU FIDDLE…..THIS SITE CANNOT GIVE OUT WIRING INFO. AND THERE ARE LIKELY TO BE SPARE CONNECTORS.
that’s the most likely cause of your problem….pressure-switch faulty or the tube blocked.I’m not a professional engineer, so exercise due caution.
Re: Zanussi ZWF16070W1
Pliers, screwdrivers and brute force..
Oh, hell, the Forum’s being invaded by Victorian dentists. 😈Re: hotpoint Aquarius WF250 Problem
for the cost of a triac, I’d be tempted to take the advice of the professionals on this board and try it 🙂
Re: Intermittent connection, Electrolux WH838
more likely a broken wire.
unplug the machine first !!!!!
although a wire can look to be OK, the plastic covering can conceal the breakage of the copper core…..you need to check backwards from the pump, look for kinks or knobbly bits then pull either side and if it stretches easily, that’s your break.I was tempted to think the pump may be burning out, but as the “fix” is repeatable I’ll discount that.
Did you check that the pump-bearings are not excessively worn?…often they wear sufficiently the central rotor jams in the outer casing….tilt the unit so the worn part is in a different orientation…….
Re: Electrical problem with washing machine or not?
I’ll hazard a guess, just a theory, but i’ve seen it before with a steam-iron……
both contain an element which is basically a metal tube with a heater-wire running through the middle.the space around the wire is packed tightly with a fireproof powder and little ceramic collars are wedged in the ends of the tube,with the wire-terminals sticking out.
the powder absorbs atmospheric oisture (lots of it in a damp laundry/leaky machine)
machine is used, heater switches on, moisture is driven out to cooler ends where it condenses/achieves sufficient density to bridge centre conductor to earth (outer tube) the current needed is absolutely minute.
with a bit of luck, the moisture evaporates sufficiently with the residual heat, for a successful reset.
the lady with the iron ahd bought 3 new ones in less than a year.seldom-used electric ovens are also vulnerable.
Sometimes, trips are too clever for their own good….subsequently, it became commonplace to wire a house with a split-load supply, so these circuits could bypass the earth-leakage device.Re: Boiler issue, can anyone help?
I have come across several room-sealed boilers…….what they all have in common, is a “breathing” system that makes the boiler self-extinguish if there’s a breakdown in the sealing.
There is a lot of backside covering paranoia where “elf ‘n safety” issues are concerned…..our rights to assess risks for ourselves are being eroded by Big Brother.
NOT saying you haven’t got a problem…but where do you think the “N-Power” bloke got his training?They are far from immune from hiring numpties, in fact, their faceless HR dept’s are a lot more removed from reality and the coalface, than “Bert and his dog” , who’s reputation and livelihood are immediately under threat if he hires sub-standard labour.
Just in case you missed the hints.
FIND A PROPER, INDEPENDENT, LOCAL REGISTERED GAS INSTALLER
(AKA “corgi-registered” )
Re: Drum noise on spin –
OK,- Bosch , like a lot of manufacturers, are a global producer- just as Ford Cortinas produced in Belgium, were crappy compared with those from the Cologne plant, – so it is generally accepted that the German -built Bosch products are better -built than the stuff from Italy, Poland ETC.-more-so than price or model-differences would suggest……..in other words, If you buy Bosch, the extra cost of the German models id a LOT better value.
The ISE is sold only by independent engineers.
They have a vested interest in having happy customers (they recommend friends, remain loyal and so ensure the trader does not go out of business.)
The machines are built to their own specification and concentrate on quality rather than flashing lights and gimmicks….the range is limited and it appears that each tries to offer the best in performance and reliability,at that price.
The ISE10 is expensive…BUT It’s an industrial machine to all intents and purposes…..in other words, it will take a hammering like a launderette machine.- for a young family it must be the best investment,-the warranty and service / maintenance knock spots off the only other make anywhere near (Miele)
Not sure what the current lineup is, but there are plenty of links here.
The “closed shop” operation of Miele for parts, service and total lack of any service-info(and you HAVE to pay them to “reset” the “brain” ) whenever it needs, means I’ll never own one….plus their parts are scandalously expensive.
hope this helps….I’m not a whitegoods engineer,.but have a strong background in sales, service and engineering.
Re: Drum noise on spin –
A quick ‘n dirty check 😉
open the door, try wobbling the inner-drum around…..if it wobbles off-centre to the porthole EVENLY and revolves “evenly”, – It’s likely to be bearings……especially if it rumbles when being revolved.
the Spider is normally bolted to the drum edges at the same position as the lifter-bars (agitators) when you pull the drum off-centre and it STAYS that way, revolves eccentrically and scrapes when the off-centre bit passes the lowest point (scrapes the heater!)…..almost certainly the spider…..crunching noises when you pull it around, off centre,would suggest the broken ends rubbing together. you can even work out which leg(s) are broken.
Don’t discount the possibility that a small independent shop might break one and sell you a used part cheap. those sort of placesare going fast and should be supported!Re: leak from Hotpoint BWM 129
just possibly due to high water pressure surging and overflowing…..try throttling the water supply by partially closing the connector-tap,-enough to slow the flow but still fill the machine in a reasonable time.
also the “swilling-over” problem becomes worse if the machine’s not level.
Re: Drum noise on spin –
It may be that only the bearings have gone, in which case the bearing/seal kit is probably less than £20……if the drum-support is broken, you’ll probably have to strip it out in order to confirm that. A new drum/support assy. + seal/bearings would be a bit expensive, but you’d wind up with something FAR better than the budget ~£200 throwaway non-repairable machines. For something of reasonable quality it has to be the Bosch as posted by Helo75, or maybe consider the ISE…It’s distributed ,installed and serviced by independent engineers and specified by them to give the best service-life for the price and be easy and cheap to repair. see links on the side of the page 🙂
Re: Hotpoint CDT85 Dryer parts
Try a supplier of automotive body-shop supplies.
there is a bolt-on panel-sealing tape, dense sponge-rubber, strong adhesive one side, different widths available….should find something there!Re: Washing machine help.
you *may* be lucky enough to find an old-fashioned TV /radio engineer/electronics man to rework your board…….the semiconductors and electrolytic capacitors (the vulnerable bits) are buttons to buy, EXCEPT the EEPROM, which carries the machine-manufacturers’ programme. It will be exclusive to them , unless you have very sophisticated kit and can read the programme and burn it to a new “chip” (assuming you can identify it as a standard component! )…then you’re stuffed
there is a possibility the EEPROM is OK-for the cost of a triac, it’s worth substituting it with a new one….Maplin, RS or CPC may have, or many USA suppliers are happy to ship to UK.
Semiconductor /transistor / electronics tutorials are plentiful on the net.
Re: servis appliance
judging by your query, it’s outside your comfort-zone to open it up and have a look.
I’d suggest you look at the “find an engineer” function on this website(may appear under this post1 🙂 This will help you locate an independent local repairer who won’t rip you off.
Although Servis has gone, it’s likely the electrical/electronics bits were all bought in from outside manufacturers,which would mean that new elements, controllers and the like will probably be fairly easily obtained…it’s also possible that they are “standard, off-the-shelf” parts.don’t write off the possibility of repairs, just yet…..in future you may struggle with pan-supports,control -knobs and the like.
