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Re: Miele belt squeak
I got a new appliance I want you to get me Exclamation Exclamation
Bryan
errrm, you been to Tesco’s aven’t you?….it’s a belt, silly…to fit your miele! not a new appliance, just a low-modulus Unobtanium belt.I know it was a bargain, but you shouldn’t get greedy with the Bells.
Re: Miele belt squeak
this machine DID have a retail cost of £1400.
Oh dear! Bryan, what can I say! 😮 I’m told these people can spot a mug a mile away….but I think that if you can afford the service , you should get it!
It’s a bit of a bugger about the belt, I didn’t realise you had had your hat nailed on so hard….SHEESH!////you could have got a big ISE 10 …AND a ISE5 for that money….
I think your wife should do the shopping in future (unless she’s a dizzy blonde…in which case i might be able to educate her)Really, the nevva nevva ware WOULD solve your problems, but it’s an ADDITIONAL £900-ish you’ll have to shell out.
a mere bagatelle, IMO-especially if you’re in up to the taters for 1400 😛
Re: Miele belt squeak
Bryan…when the service engineer comes (you’ll recognise him by the nifty company overalls and black eyepatch….as k if you can have one of the aftermarket 2nevver nevver ware belts fitted…….you cannot do this yourself, as tampering with a machine about which you have had no training, will invalidate the warranty.
Make the engineer a brew—-extra brownie points for biscuits, sugar bowl and spoon. slice of cake…..
then ask about the Nevva nevva ware……these are FANTASTIC…..made of special high modulus unobtanium, you will be able to transfer it to successive machines for your whole life….of course, they’re quite dear
…..about £900…..and that’s why Miele didn’t fit one…cos your washer would have cost £1400…and eny fule kno you can get an ISE10 with 10 yrs. guarantee for a lot less and they will let you mess with that one as a bonus.
If this is all too much, Tesco has a special offer on Bells whiskey…half a bottle of that will make the problem seem insignificant.Re: RS21 Watchdog. 5 Year NO or Replacement YES! SIMPLE STEP
just another POV here, Phil.
If you bought a shotty Lada for 3 grand, you’d expect neither the build-quality,reliability,comfort or longevity of a Mercedes.
See, Phil, you bought a “lada riva” of fridge-freezers.yea, it’s got an ice-maker, double doors,a mirror and other gew gaws, but it was only a third the price of “the real thing” an American-built “american fridge.
yoyr RIVA is pretending to be a Range Rover…yup they both have high bodies, big knobbly tyres and 4 wd….but yours is 1/3 of the price for a reason!
It’s a cheap, short-term bit of FLASH…as such it will need constant fettling to keep on running.
You’ve been offered a 5-year time-life component….so eat it! pay your routine maintenance cost to have this changed periodically…….or do you never service your car? just wait till it breaks down and then act stunned that things break or wear out..many years ago, Hewlett Packard made the world’s best electronic test-gear. EVERY SINGLE component was tested and checked against a very tight specification….HP stuff “never” broke down,but you continued to lug the 100lb brick around whilst the cheapskates bought another new,small, light,flimsy, short-life bit of kit……..why?….cos HP was an arm and a leg to buy .
does that sound familiar?
Samsung probably gave you a deal because you gave them so much grief, it was the least painful way to get rid of you!…you know, the noisy wheel gets the grease 🙂
Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
I highly doubt that ANY grease is significantly more detergent-resistant than any other 🙂
bet the bearings are all standard components….so they’ll be 1/8 to 3/8 -filled with HMP Lithium-based grease (ordinary grease!)
the most important part, as you keep telling people is the sleeve/ferrule/bush/spigot….whatever you call it……the surface the seal runs on.
Too highly polished,it will snag the seal-lip. too coarse a surface and it will rapidly wear or tear the seal…..so the surface -texture has to be just right for a molecular film of water to penetrate the seal/shaft interface and lubricate it.
this necessity also applies to any machinery and car brake and clutch cylinders.
Of course, the texture of the rubber also plays a part.SO, there should be enough “leakage” to lubricate, not enough to drip or pool!
If water gets past the seal, the bearing is done for! -sooner ,rather than later.
Re: Zanussi FL1032B Bearings vs Spider Shaft
pleased to hear it!…I was convinced you couldn’t unbalance the drum to that extent without noticing something!….spring POSITION didn’t occur to me :rolls:
If you’re rich enough to go in the White Hart, you should just chuck that thing into the local charity and buy a new ISE 😆Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
I was actually referring to the various types of grease being suggested to pack the bearings
OOPS! sorry, Jim. 😳
Yup, the “white brake grease” IIRC, Castrol call it “brake bisector grease”
is used inside drum-brakes,where it has to withstand high temps. also ,externally on the cables/linkages,it is subject to water and dirt. It’s like a thin cream and is very low migration (doesn’t creep away significantly)
The heavy slide-grease that Tim was considering, is used on lorry 5th. wheels, and stuff like that…thick dirty, glutinous stuff…and I think it’s HMP (high melting point) as well.
Re: Zanussi FL1032B Bearings vs Spider Shaft
If you remove the drum again, FIT A NEW SEAL….YES! I know it’s “new” but the lip will sustain damage,just having a sharp metal shoulder pass over it (as in the step between the bearing-seating and the seal-seating.
I still think you’re barking up the wrong tree, here.take the belt off and check the static balance of the drum……stick a bit of masking tape ti the lowest part of the lip, rotate drum about 100* let it go……drum may well revolve. when it stops,mark new “low point” -repeat.
Out of balance drum will always settle at the same point…….(try it with a bicycle wheel, the valve always goes to the bottom,provided bearings are good and there’s no counterweight)
If you DO have an imbalance,, try taping a coin to the “high” edge
I woildn’t expect a couple of grammes to make a lot of difference, though you could concievably have a ROCKING COUPLE…where the back of the drum has an imbalance diametrically opposite the corresponding imbalance at the front.
static balance is perfect, dynamic is horrendous!
💡 IIRC, you lubricated the supports?….NOT a good idea IF they’re designed to act as a friction-damper…..any vibration which is undamped is able to increase in amplitude very easily.Whatever you’ve done, enough imbalance to cause severe vibration would ,i’m sure, be self-evident…As I said before, if the drum spins “true”to within about 3/16” at the mouth, the imbalance is likely to be insignificant ,compared with the imbalance of the average random washload…………..you DID put more than a couple of towels on test, didn’t you? 😛
Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?
Jim, have you ever stuck a bare forearm on the windowsill of the car on a HOT day?….Sikaflex is a structural bond,they use it for car glass because it makes the pane part of the stress-bearing structure (it’s very strong in tension or compression,doesn’t like bending or torsion, though. (the glass, that is!) If you have a browse on the net, you’ll see that there are various grades, they even do marine grades,which withstand heat, salt, UV, abrasion etc.
household detergent is a walk in the park for this stuff. (barsteward to remove, though, magnitudes tougher than silicone.
Re: leisure rm10/cm10 dual fuel range cooker injectors
As you bought it new, you should have the installation sheet and possibly a “handbook” that came with it…all the spec’s are normally there.
Sod’s law, you’ll get new and the originals will turn up a few days later!Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?
Tim, perhaps you could get the mod’s to pull all your saga into one thread.
I posted on another, but anyway,
the u-pol product appears to be similar to sika.-both available at motor-factors/bodyshop suppliers (Brown Bro’s local?)
yes, a “sealed” bearing is better protected than a shielded. IMHO, shielded are a waste of tin in this application.
if you can’t drain from in front of the front bearing, to outside the tub,consider making a “gutter” groove UNDER the front bearing and continue it to where you drill your exit-drain. make sure the drain hole is at least 1/4 ” diameter, otherwise surface-tension will hold a plug of water blocking it until there’s enough weight of water to displace it.Re: ZWF1431W now a twin tub! 😉
Outer bearing was: 62062
think you’ll find that’s a 6206 -Z (suffix is a single shield/seal , double-suffix =both sides )
If you can’t drill a hole directly from outside tub to inside gap between front seal and front bearing, I’d suggest you assess grooving a “gutter” under the front bearing,to your drain-hole….that should be at least 1/4″ diameter,as the surface-tension of a bead of water will otherwise tend to plug the hole.
forget Stainless bolts, cad/zinc plated/passivated will be fine….all the rest of the tinware in the cabinet is plated, isn’t it?
Yes, the U-pol product appears to be the same as Sikaflex….U-pol is well known for “bog” (body-filler! ) in the motor-trade (aka “kipper” 😀
erm, maybe you can get the mods to amalgamate all your threads on this machine? it’s getting “hunt the saga!Re: Zanussi ZWF1431W bearing replacement?
In case it’s different, the spares system I’m most familiar with (motorbikes) the same part and therefore part number could be used for many models over many years but only if it was the exact same (or functionally equivelent) component?
ha ha ! try the motor-trade! the Jaguar XJ series traced their lineage back through the Mark10….Ihad occasion to order some suspension mounts and the part-number was supersesde at EVERY model-change the component was used..NO cross-reference, so you had to laboriously look up each supersession, only to find it,too had been superseded….after half an hour you got the current number……..and found they were on back-order!
Re: zanussi iz 161w drum only rotates fast, after” E40
Thanks, Penguin, they are onto a 2-pin to edge of board (greys) and one of the multipin’s further down the same edge. (blue)
The converter-board is dead simple, even for me! (not the brightest spark where semi-conductors are concerned)
I’m pretty convinced that it’s a dead transistor on the board,as the programmer all appears to function…so I might invest in a fancy DMM with a built-in scope/logic -probe function.
watch this space! I’m not paying over £100 for a board!Re: Zanussi FL1032B Bearings vs Spider Shaft
You would have spotted if the drum was off-centre,just by spinning it.
It’s a given that the back is concentric, as it’s bolted/rivetted to the spider,which is integral with the shaft…and that would need a really hefty clout to misalign.
if you’ve gripped the tub-rim whilst rocking the drum(lift/drop,-not rotation)
you can do the same thing at the pulley end…try rocking it…..i doubt there’s a problem there ‘cos it spins smoothly 💡 check the belt for flats, where the original bearings were possibly causing the drum to snag or jam. If the motor-pulley has chewed it a bit, that would likely cause your problem.
