[cockney steve]

Re: Zanussi FL1032B Bearings vs Spider Shaft

If you can rock the drum within the tub,that would suggest the bearings are loose within the housing,or the shaft-seat is worn.
Also consider if you hit the inner-race, you could have cracked the balls
(unlikely)

If there’s no drum “shake” at rest,and you can spin the drum freely, (slip the belt off and give it a twirl)….you must have a dynamic imbalance

does it occur at all speeds? come and go? spin only?

have you checked the “lifters” (I think they’re called) the bars in the drum that catch the laundry,-some are removable and a sock trapped under one would cause an imbalance.

Also, the most elementary…is the drum concentric!….if the front is offset with respect the rear, yes, it will vibrate!

finally, we ARE talking vibration and not noise , aren’t we?

[cockney steve]

Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?

yes! just like a waterpump on a car (that’s another racket! )…they also have a drain hole ,which I’d assumed would be your priority mod when you rework this “disposable “machine.

As regards your bonding…investigate “sikaflex”….if it’s good enough to bond car panels together,and fit windscreens, I’m sure it will bond a tub, PROVIDING the plastic is compatible!

Sikaflex is a i-part air -curing polyurethane sealant, -sticks better than s**t to an army-blanket 😆 I’ve stuck a piece of 22 gauge to an old windscreen, -torn the tin with Mole-grips,reduced the (laminated) glass to fragments,but the bond held firm!

shielded bearings (tin) primarily for “large” dirt and grit exclusion…”seals”
are “splashproof”a damp enclosure will hold the moisture which WILL permeate past these seals.

No-matter how much grease you TRY to pack in, the shaft is revolving, therefore there’s a shear-line running through the grease (not forgetting centrifugal force (centripetal for the pedantic!)…..so water will ,theoretically be able to go along the shaft…..back to plan A-slinger and drain-hole…..or you COULD connect your drain-hole to an aquarium-pump and use a sealed back-bearing, thus the bearings would enjoy positive pressureand the seal would press more firmly against the shaft….but that would make it wear quicker…the shaft surface HAS to be “rough” enough to hold lubricant for the seal!(and they’re really oil-seals, not water seals, except the flat-faced one on my current hoover which bears against a ceramic washer bonded to the spider/shaft interface.

[cockney steve]

Re: leisure rm10/cm10 dual fuel range cooker injectors

I’m more curious as to why he would want them!

I came out of a fish and chip shop and discissed this with the rangemaker (good friends from a former engineering life) 😀 …he agreed they never wear out.
They cleaned brass stuff by boiling it in vinegar and water for 20 minutes

same with car carburettors, the only thing that ever wore was the inlet needle/jet/float….the fixed jets lasted forever…exception was the spring-biased crap on late SU carbs, where the needle would saw the jet oval…impossible to get a lean tickover without a massive flat-spot.
a new needle and main-jet weren’t particularly cheap, either, and you thought the parts racket only operated with appliances!

[cockney steve]

Re: homark oven door has totally fell off! whatshould I do

If push came to shove, you could source silver-steel bar of the right diameter , from an engineers merchant…(sold in about 10-inch lengths,under a fiver.), to make new hinge-pins…..probably not economically viable if you have to pay someone to mend it. (they’d need to be hardened and tempered after cutting, for best strength and durability.

couldn’t quite make out if the broken stubs were welded to the door hinge-plates.

[cockney steve]

Re: Sealed or Shielded bearings?

Tim, I’d suggest that 3 loads a week for 1 year would be considerably cheaper than the launderette!

Sealed bearings “aren’t”…tin shields or rubber seals, makes no difference,there’s a gap between the inner-race and the seal-lip otherwise it would get “friction burns”

many washers used to have a drain-hole between the drum-seal and front bearing…many a rusty streak has been seen down the back of the tub !

IMO, you should consider a “flinger”-basically ,it’s a washer which is a tight fit on the shaft, but smaller than the bearing…it would go between the seal and the front bearing (maybe a shim-ring between the inner -race and the flinger?)

Any water penetrating the seal will then be thrown clear before it can percolate along to the bearing.

I don’t think extra grease will help–maybe waterpump grease or calcium-oxide based “white brake grease”, would stand a fighting chance-but normal Lithium grease absorbs water and soon emulsifies,thus rusting the bearing.

Your solution is stainless-steel or ceramic bearings…research bearings on the net, you’ll find that equivalent s/s bearings are downrated considerably but I don’t think the loading is anything like max in the average washer anyway!

I’m following your saga with interest..spent many years repairing “sealed” throwaway stuff. sometimes,obselescence or non-availability make it a necessity or cost -effective alternative to scrapping.

[cockney steve]

Re: Bra wire Bosch washer/dryer WVTI2840GB (plus smell issue

This isn’t for the faint-hearted!

You’ve unplugged the machine,and you’re POSITIVE the wire’s still there…..OK,-often the wire gets trapped under the heater and won’t cause bother IF it stays there.

get a big torch stand it in the drum, poke your head in and squint through the drum perforations….by juggling the drum,your head and the torch, you should be able to make out the heater and the wire…..tilt the machine forward and use a thin wire (piece of coathanger?-with a loop at the “handle” end)poked through the drum and used to flick the wire to the front.
A Mechanic’s “magnet-on-a-stick can then be fed between the tub and drum (peel the door-seal back enough for access) and hoick it out.

very tedious but no dismantling…..the quicker alternatives,like pulling the heater, are only good if you are competent . an engineer will be costly

IMO you should consider using a launderette until one of the forum contacts can attend…I’m pretty confident that A- bosch will nail your hat on
B… engineers on this forum are an honest bunch who will treat you fairly.

good luck with the lambing, my mate got out of sheep a few years ago and Sucklers have just about finished calving. 🙂

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