Forum Replies Created
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AuthorPosts
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happycack
ParticipantRe: Testing or Bypassing Door Interlock
Cat amongst the pigeons was obviously an under statement! I do take all I can on board when I go to a call i.e. toddlers, low income, single parent etc so if that is the case then I just give them the full quote for the repair and don’t even tell them about a by-pass. BUT if all they’ve got is a couple of cats and the machine is in a garage or something then I give them the option. Especially if it is getting someone out of a financial tight corner. I know I might be sounding a bit ‘self righteous’ here but so far the only comments have been against what I have been known to do in the past but I bet I am not the only one to have done this. By the way, 30 years in the trade and not one come back on the above. (I did get 7 recalls on snails up the waste pipe!)
Come on, be honest, has nobody out there ever done the same? However I do respect your comments.
Paulhappycack
ParticipantRe: Testing or Bypassing Door Interlock
Sorry Jim but isn’t that what this confidential site is all about?
Paul.happycack
ParticipantRe: Testing or Bypassing Door Interlock
Most door interlocks are marked with L, C and N or on older appliances maybe 1, 2 and 3 which generally relate to 1 = N, 2 = C and 3 = L but only as a general rule of thumb. If they are marked as L, N and C then short L to C. (Live to common) If I want a quick test then I use my insulated pointed nose pliers (I can hear the ‘tut tutting’ from our more safety conscious engineers as I typed that! Quite rightly so) But a typical fault on any WM Hotpoint series is that the door lock was originally the fault and you bypass the door lock to confirm it but after fitting a new one it still doesn’t work. This is because the fault has probably been on the heater coil of the lock and blown tracks off the timer P.C.B. Normally easy to re-solder. Now to put the cat amongst the pigeons! The labour charge goes up if you have to attempt the soldering job and they pay for a new door lock but I explain the situation to the customer and a quick cheap job is to put a link between the two terminals explaining that the door won’t lock, the door can be opened at any time during the cycle and if the door is open when the cycle is set then it will flood. If that suits them (and I put that on the job sheet with their signature) then that’s what I do. A legal boffin has told me that the machine has to be sold with safety devises fitted but after warranty and in your own home then the rest is up to the customer.
Your comments please !
Paul.happycack
ParticipantRe: Dual fuel appliances & Corgi
I think the non-science: GREY AREA: is the answer. You don’t know whose been there before, cowboy or otherwise. Worst scenario if I do an electrical fault (i.e. door micro-switch as I mentioned) and through no fault of mine it leeks gas and blows up, my name on the job sheet, not corgi registered and before you know it you’re up shot street without a paddle. (If you get my drift)
If you don’t need it, don’t touch it.happycack
ParticipantRe: Dual fuel appliances & Corgi
Don’t know if it’s relevant or not but I have valuation of being an up to date electrician but I am not qualified to work on a gas tumble dryer even if it just a micro switch. I personally don’t go there but if they are two separate appliances then I can’t really see a crime. Can anyone else
happycack
ParticipantRe: My Home Connect?
Just for the record… Nope!
Not sure if it is something to do with being old and suspicious but I detect a distinct rodent aroma in the air. Keep us informed with any follow up.happycack
ParticipantRe: Any tips to remove Dyson CR01 motor?
Had a word with a friend of mine that works for Dyson. Special pullig tool about 3 foot long!
That would explain it, hope that helps.happycack
ParticipantRe: Waitrose Workwear Hygiene?
I used to work for a commercial washing machine company that had machines in nursing homes, hospitals etc. This was some 15 years ago and the legislation then was that wash temperatures should reach a minimum of 64 degrees (apparently nothing can live above this temperature so as to prevent the possibility of cross contamination i.e. bedding, towels etc.) and although the machines were programmed electrically they had to have an external thermometer (mechanical) that would confirm the inside wash temperature. Lets face it if you set a domestic machine on a 90 degree wash and press the economy button then on a majority of machine the temperature won’t be reached. This was the legalisation then but as you all know the goal posts can, over the years, get moved!
happycack
ParticipantRe: Seen it all?
That’s close enough Welsh Boy. Turned out to be snails up the waste pipe!!!
First pump out the machine flooded over the stand pipe behind the machine flushing enough snails away to keep a French restaurant going for two days. Bit of fine mesh chiken wire over the waste pipe outside and the jobs a good ‘en.
Drove away banging my fore head muttering ‘f***k**g snails!!!’
Well done welsh boy.happycack
ParticipantRe: Seen it all?
Nope.
happycack
ParticipantRe: Dead Marherita 2000
Went back to above machine today and you were spot on about the brushes thanks alot. I’ll remember that. Can I presume the same on some other machines like Indesit for example?
happycack
ParticipantRe: Dead Marherita 2000
Thanks for that, I’ll be back in the morning. (glad actually ’cause the custmers gorgeous!)
happycack
ParticipantRe: Beko Fault
Thanks chaps, I’ll check with customer.
happycack
ParticipantThanks, I’ll check with the customer.
happycack
ParticipantHave you got live and neutral at the main switch? Sounds like youve lost the neutral.
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