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Try it on a rinse & spin programme a few times without a load. If it spins perfectly without a load every time you try it and also spun with a full load it would suggest an OOB condition. An out of balance load will give the exact symptoms you see but if you allow it to fully complete the programme after this occurrence you should then get ——— three dashes in the display. I have the same machine and did change the belt a couple of years back due to persistent OOB. It did seem to help to reduce the incidence.
roly16 wrote:
Hope you guys are all keeping well.
Regards
GeoffAlls well with me Geoff, fully retired just over five years ago now. Lots of gardening and watching Man United and Lancashire cricket. Busy day today, Going to a T20 match, Lancashire v Leicestershire at Old Trafford this afternoon then straight across to the other Old Trafford to watch United v Chelsea tonight. It’s a hard life.:cool:
Can’t send by PM. Send me your email address via PM and I will see if I can help. All but the very early ISE 10’s have induction motors.
He’s been and pulled it out, mains plug burnt in wall socket. When he phoned me and asked me to guess what he had found I instantly said plug and socket.:)
No idea Dave, he sent me a 4 second video of the machine in situ tumbling in what appeared to be a normal wash action. No sign of any smoke and the smellyvision feature had been deactivated.:( 😀
Good grief, I must have thrown hundreds of those away as they came with new heaters even for the later WMA range. 😮
An engineer would never remove the drum front to get the heater out. Some come out easier than others but in most cases they can be prised out from the drum front in situ with varying degrees of difficulty. Can you not remember seeing the shiny flat clamp plate on the end of the heater? I would try with a normal load first before trying to remove the heater, getting an old heater back in is almost as difficult as getting it out in the first place.
That picture of the heater is cropped at the top and doesn’t show all of the element. The thin metal clamp is clipped to the very top loops of the heater and slots under a securing lug that is part of the outer drum moulding. Failing to check pockets for coins etc often lead to that bracket getting dislodged and mangled, quite common to find them in the filter hose. Even seen the lug smashed off from the inside of the drum.
The rectangular plate would not cause OOB, As long as it is securely tightened down it’s position is not critical. The amount of out of balance in the second video was not what I would call excessive and one heavy item in a half load could definitely cause that. To remove and refit the heater there is no need to do anything with the drum front clips. That said the heater is not really designed to be removed and refitted repeatedly.
Also noticed from that last picture that appears to still be the old suspension unit?
The heater bracket is a very shiny thin metal plate on the very far end of the heating element. If that is missing then the heater can catch on the inner drum leading to heater failure. Not a good thing to have the element hitting the drum.:(
There is a little more out of balance in the second video but nothing excessive. Virtually impossible to tell exactly where the ‘slapping’ noise is coming from tbh. Could be a cracked chassis, a foreign body inside the drum, heating element loose, concrete weights loose etc.:(
