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Suspension kit is still listed. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8801454-washing-machine-shock-absorber 😮
The sensing is done by the electronics, as a rule they do not go out of sync. Worn or weak suspension can cause OOB but is not something I have encountered on these machines. In fact the only time I ever changed a suspension unit was due to a leak from a vent hose at the back left (from front) side, made worse by serious over soaping. This had rusted the suspension rod. Generally you check the suspension in the same way you would on a car. Take the lid off and press down sharply and firmly on the drum. It should be quite hard to push down and return smoothly to its correct position without any signs of bouncing. Suspension kit is not cheap if it is still available and is a physically demanding task.
Can’t find any reference to replacements for this unit. Just checking my Amazon account I found I bought it in 2018. It was a 50 watt output and cost £39+. I can now buy a 60 watt unit for £23.99 so once again more landfill.:(
I hear what you say but if the outet hose is as you say then it is impossible for the water to drain out that way without the drain pump activating.???
You need to make sure that the waste outlet pipe only goes down inside the standpipe about 6 or 7 inches. If the pipe is pushed a long way down into the standpipe that can also cause syphoning.
It’s difficult for me to speculate without seeing your installation set up. It is possible for a machine to syphon if the outet hose is either to far down the standpipe, sealed to the standpipe or the standpipe has dropped over a little. The end of the washing machine waste pipe should not be sealed to the standpipe, there must be an air break to prevent syphoning. It is possible for an outlet hose that is a tight fit into the standpipe to become ‘sealed’ to the standpipe with gunge.
To be perfectly honest I would never leave any appliance that uses water on delay, or running overnight. 🙁
Was the machine originally switched off overnight? You say the pump wasn’t running, if so how did the water get out of the machine? Where any of the controls illuminated when it was filing and emptying? I never had to change a pressure switch on Any ISE 10 machine at all. If it eventually stopped filling as you switched it on and off that would generally rule out a sticking fill valve which then points to an electronics failure. If the drain outlet hose is set to low or has slipped over at the back that would allow the machine to drain without the pump operating otherwise the water can’t get out without the pump.
If you get no readings at all between any of the three compressor pins then the unit is dead, BER beyond economic repair.:(
No, it means the thermostat could be faulty although you should get a reading from the plug neutral to the relay. A seized compressor could easily blow the small overload device. Set your meter to megohms and test between the three pins on the compressor.
You need to test for a circuit from the mains plug live terminal to the compressor and back from the compressor to the neutral. You do not need the machine plugged in to do this. If your multimeter has a simple audible test function that is perfectly adequate. Unless the unit is an auto defrost system the wiring circuit on any basic fridge is the simplest there is on any kitchen appliance.
If there is not sign of a click from the thermostat that would be the first thing I would suspect and check. In spite of what you have seen online the relay is not a common cause of fridge failure. Thermostats and compressor failure are much more likely. If you have the means and the correct test equipment it should be very easy to check if there is a circuit from the mains plug to the compressor. The compressor does get very hot so heat discolouration is not uncommon. Also most old style relays should rattle if you shake them.
High to low is normally clockwise to lower temp, anti clockwise to higher temp Can you here or feel any click when you turn it?
Never heard or seen one of these but the relay is not the first thing I would be checking. I understand you seeing the light but what do you mean by ‘fridge switches on’? Do you mean switches on with the temp control knob?
Hotpoint machines have had totally sealed outer drums for well over 10 years possibly longer. They used to have a five year parts warranty so you would only have to pay for the labour charge. Been out of the loop for a few years now but I know the UK built Ebac has a serviceable outer drum. They vast majority of machines on the market have sealed drums, even the likes of Bosch and Miele on certain models.
Compare the new and old belt to see if there is evidence of belt stretch, refitting is very simple but the new belt should be very tight. Under loading with single heavy items such as bathmats very large towels etc or mixing one heavy item with smaller, lighter items can all cause OOB conditions. Observe the door as the machine starts to ramp up to spin speed, is there a lot of side to side movement? Ideally the door should be fairly central and steady with a correctly balanced load.
