Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I am a little puzzled, I am fairly certain this machine always had a momentary on/off switch, I’m sure mine does. Numbers actually on the boards are often confusing , the original part number was 8088613 and of the three shown in the service manual the one for the W1607 is also shown as 808862-01. I don’t ever remember any information about a change to the on/off switch but it may have happened or perhaps your switch is sticking slightly????? Is the plug for the two wires supplying power in the same place on both boards, fairly central on a double plug with the other connector going to the heater? Very difficult from here but looking at the three different boards the power connection socket seems to be in the same place on all three. When you are certain the on/off switch is actually off does it trip as soon as you switch on the power with only the single two pin power plug connected before you push the on/off switch? If it is then fine with the old board this would suggest a problem on the new board. One of the three boards shown in the manual appears to have a different connector on the pcb, six connections instead o of four. You can see the three options on pages 42/45 in the manual I sent you, Page 44 is for your machine.
I do read a large number of the posts and can’t say I have seen anything specific. The simplest thing to do is to post a question in the trade tech forum with a model number if possible.;)
The inverter card is in the base and the thermistor is clamped to the side of the outer drum. If it isn’t tripping with the old pcb then I very much doubt the inverter or thermistor are the cause of the problem. Does it trip as soon as you plug in or after you press the on/off switch. I would try it with just the mains power plug connected first. Tripping can cause damage to the pcb, that is why they are usually sold without any guarantee, standard practice from virtually all manufacturers.:(
One of the biggest problems with working on these machines is the fact that they where so reliable. Machines with lots of faults usually mean that in a short space of time most people in the trade become familiar with the known faults on them. As far as the ISE 10 goes I had quite a few on my area before I retired and never changed a pcb on any of them. Do all the connections appear to be the same on both boards?
When you have to order a part they say “how long will it be?” I could never resist striking my fisherman’s pose.:cool:
He’s informed me it has started working again after being left overnight. Will check those out if I do have to make a visit.:)
Morning Dave, not been out to it, just getting this info second hand via WhatsApp.:( How old is it with that FD number?
This is the control module for your machine if it is still available. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8088613-washing-machine-control-unit
Click on my name in my profile panel. There is only one main control panel which is seriously expensive.
Did I send you the full service manual, can’t remember now. Sadly it is pointing to a breakdown on the main pcb. If I didn’t send you the manual then send me your email by PM and I will send it to you. If you do have the manual then any reset procedures will be in there.
The selector knob on my own machine has on the odd occasion appeared to lose its ‘focus’ 🙂 Something that is more common on certain models of less expensive machines such as some Chinese made Hoover/Candy appliances and even one Vestel made version of ISE. One fix on those machines was to spray electrical switch cleaner (NOT WD 40) into the back of the rotary switch through any tiny holes you could find and rotate the switch knob several times. As yet I have not had to spray my own machine but did get the selector knob to function correctly by rotating it vigorously several times whilst switched OFF. I have never had the programme stop mid cycle and do get OOB episodes when there is obviously a difficult to balance load in the machine.
