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Back again, just bought 2 rear bearings from EBay for £7.20. Just the belt to sort now, this dryer although not the best economy rating is a bit like Triggers broom.:) Over the years it has had several belts and jockey pulleys, front bearings and even a motor. This is the first time the rear bearing will have been changed. Fits in the confines of our small boiler room and vents through the wall. It will be a very sad day when I am unable to keep it going.
Hi Dave, I must have thrown several of those bearings away when I retired. Do Connect supply to general public. Would probably get a gen belt, non gen never seem to last as long. Thanks for having a look.
Jim.
OK, Found belt in UKWG’s shop, also full bearing kit. In truth I only need the square bearing if any kind soul has one going spare.:)
Got it in one, I know a while back he did mention some personal issues in his life but who hasn’t had them at one time or another, how does he find time to work. There is often the odd bit of good advice in his posts but it is drowned by the rest. Massively long posts, constantly lauding the virtues of cheap Chinese gear. Throwing out the odd snide comment or dig at other trade members who have the temerity to recommend certain manufacturers products and recently naming Don in particular, just because one individual had a problem with Miele.
My pet hate however is how, even days or weeks later he will jump into a thread that has been successfully and concisely answered by other trade members and fill it with his constant ramblings.:mad:For the first time ever I am seriously considering blocking a trade member, I will give you one guess who it is. 🙁
This is the element for all ISE 10 machines. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8061706-washing-machine-water-heater . Never had to change one myself .
It does sound as though the element is suspect. I would carefully isolate the two wires going to the heater. I honestly can’t remember if they have plastic covers on them or not, just tape the tags with some insulation tape if they don’t. Then refit all of the connections to the new control board, plug in, switch on and see what happens. If it doesn’t trip then next step would be a new element.
Good grief, I am convinced this bloke is not an air head but even though he has a Fluke multimeter which although I am not familiar with it should be capable of testing the heater insulation. He has now bought a megger to do an insulation test on his heating element.:o
To be fair this chap comes across as fairly sane.:) He does have a slightly strange problem and I am certainly glad I am not actually having to fix it.:(
Manual is here. https://dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/83_85___umeng0700.pdf Try the option on page 21.
iadom wrote:Does it trip as soon as you plug in or after you press the on/off switch. I would try it with just the mains power plug connected first. .:(
Checking back I did suggest trying it with JUST the mains power plug connected a few days ago.;)
Not familiar with the Fluke multimeter, always used a proper megger but Fluke gear is very good so it should be possible to do a simple insulation test with it. You should test between either of the two heater connections and the earth terminal. What actual model of Fluke multimeter have you got?
🙂 To be honest unless I was 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain the control module and nothing else was faulty on my own ISE W1607 I would definitely not invest in a new module.:rolleyes:
Another ‘off the wall’ suggestion. Remove the back panel, take the two wires off the heating element main terminals then check the insulation readings of the heating element. Heating elements with even very small earth leakage are known to cause all sorts of spurious and seemingly unrelated faults on many different machines.
Weird, pray, stand on one leg with your left arm behind your back,:D You could try plugging the other connection to the heating element that goes into the same block as the power plug then trying again. If it trips it suggests that the connections in that plug are suspect. What other plugs had you put in when you tried it before.
Yes, power up with only plug 8 connected, can’t do any damage to the machine or anything to the board that it hasn’t already. If it powers up and occasionally works with the old board then logically the fault must be on the new board. How the fault got there is however open to conjecture.[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/core/core/images/smilies/evil6.gif”}[/IMG2]
