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Images are now visible, earlier all I could see were five small V Bulletin icons on my iPad. Even turned down I don’t think that comm will last very long.:(
The 12mm carbons do look to be rather poor quality.
Images haven’t uploaded, safe to say it is amazing it actually ran again and hasn’t blown any electronics (yet) .:eek:
https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/general-enquiries-and-questions/888210-microve-advise ‘Microve advise’. Sounds a bit off but IP ‘appears’ legit?
As far as tech info goes send me a DM with your email address and I may have some stuff buried deep in my PC that could be useful.
Check the tracks to the plug that sits on the top edge of the timer at the very front of the board. That’s the most common place that fails when door lock has blown. I never had to replace a complete control unit for this fault. It’s usually only one track that has blown so I used to cut the corresponding wire off the plug and soldered a short length of any insulated wire to a suitable spot on the track side of the timer below the blown track. I then joined that wire to the wire I had cut from the front connector plug. Over the years I did this many, many times with 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} success. I have seen attempts to repair the track or build up a thin line of solder on top of the burnt track but found my method worked best for me.:cool:
NB. It’s not slamming the door but leaning on it with one hand whilst removing the washing with the other hand that causes the door to drop.;)
Never had a door lock do this. Is your emergency door release done by pushing the drum/door to the left to reveal the small slot for the emergency release slide to slot in. You don’t even need the small release slide/bar, a small teaspoon handle that will fit into the slot is just as good. The door is spring loaded so should pop open without having to pull it. The front panel does remove fairly easily if you are handy to allow more access to the door interlock.
To be honest, over the years I have had the genuine ones come loose occasionally, even on my own venerable Hotpoint TL 61. I used to wrap a few layers of insulation tape round and round the plastic insert splines before pushing the end in which used to keep it in place (for a while).
Experience with the inverter board on ISE10 machines is nil, never had to change one, never had a fault on one ever.
As I mentioned earlier heating elements with even very small earth leakages can cause all sorts of weird and totally unrelated faults and error messages on all sorts of machines, I have had faults on Hotpoint and Hoover machines on various models that report drain or spin error codes that have eventually been traced to low heater insulation.
Zanussi washer dryers used to be well known for several different strange faults that resolve to low insulation on the dryer side elements.I will say that in 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of all of the cases on those machines, changing the element cured the fault without having to change the module.
Have you tried the original module?
Really strange why it tripped with the new module and not the old one??? Have you tried it with the original module? It’s all total guesswork now, could the faulty element have compromised both modules? I honestly do not know what the answer is from here.:(
electrofix wrote: can get you into connect if you need to
Dave
Will bear that in mind for the future but 2 bearings for £7.20 inclusive trumps £9.25 plus vat for one don’t you think.;):)
Jim.
