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Unfortunately I don’t seem to have electronic copies of that particular manual amongst the hundreds I still have. I would have had hard copies of virtually all Hotpoint appliances so didn’t always need them on my PC. I retired fully five years ago and either dumped or passed them onto an ex Hotpoint colleague who as far as I am aware is still working as an independent. When Dave mentioned a leak you wouldn’t see any water on the floor as the anti flood mechanism should prevent that and just hold the water in the base until you tilt the machine. The fill valves did occasionally stick on these as well. One thing you could try is to start the machine then after say 15 to 20 seconds open the door and fill the tub with a pan or kettle so there is a layer of water covering the whole of the base. About half an inch of water in the base should be enough to trigger the wash motor after you close the door.
The first noise you should hear is the drain pump, then it should stop draining and start to fill. I think there is a test routine for these. I may have some tech info buried on my PC or in the cloud. Will have a look and get back to you in a couple of hours.:)
There is the problem of it not resealing, especially if it has the flimsy clip with small screw and little square nut. Very common for those to leak after being disturbed.
If it is draining correctly then leave well alone. The filter was not designed as a user accessible item. In fact machines just before that in the UK didn’t even have a filter. Possibly people used to 1, read the user instructions carefully 2, take more care of their appliances or 3, more likely the value of loose change in pockets was greater in those days.:cool: The filters that could be accessed from the front became common on European imported machines well before the likes of Hotpoint and Hoover fitted them.
Heater time out, may be heating element but could also be a detached thermistor inside the door panel.
A badly worn plastic dome under that shim will allow the top of rod to flop about and would cause instability. Also a suspension unit of that age is long overdue for a change.
If you still have all the other parts from the suspension kit then replacing the original one with all of the new kit might be a good idea.
No need to grease the rods when fitting. Nothing immediately obvious, possibly the top of the original rod may be a problem. Looks like the thin metal shim is cracked and as they are original the plastic domes could be badly worn .
OOB= out of balance. The bracket sits on the top of the base with the securing stud going through both the bracket and what’s left of the base. To achieve this the suspension unit has to be lifted up to clear the bracket. This is a physically demanding job, I always did this from the front with the machine leant back against a wall or kitchen unit.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hotpoint-BRACKET/dp/B000W3U8QG Bracket is cheaper here, or search for the original part number which is C00168442.
That’s the correct part, there was only ever one standard bracket. The base is a one piece alloy part with a hole in the middle. It cannot rust but cracks around the base of either suspension unit was a very common fault. The rust on your original fault was due to a leak from the water inlet hose directly above it. Bad news is that the lower suspension unit slots through the hole in either end of that bracket so a very physical wrestling match is unavoidable. It should have emptied the bulk of the water long before it goes into spin. Any excess water still in the drum will have a dragging effect on the drum but won’t in itself cause OOB.
