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If you fitted everything in the kit then the domes should still be fine. Due to the difficulty in accessing the top bolts you may not have got them tight enough and they could have come loose. Poor draining should not cause major out of balance but the sump hose under rhe drum sounds like it needs inspecting for obstructions. I puzzled as to why you can’t lean the machine back against a wall. I did it thousands of times with this type of machine?
Impossible, front has to come off. When you replaced the rods did you order the complete kit as that should have included new plastic domes bolts and washers.
The tops of the rods can become very loose. The securing bolts at the top of the rod can loosen, the plastic cups can wear away.
This is the repair bracket that was used to repair a cracked base/chassis. MWP30. https://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/ys79931/restraint-bracket-hotpoint-MWP30.aspx Might be hard to find one now. Physically quite hard to fit, have done hundreds of them in the past.
Those bearings look fine, the way the drum was swaying when slowing down suggests a suspension problem. Cracks in the base/chassis very common on these. If you tilt the machine back against a wall and look at the base around the suspension mountings the cracks are usually obvious. The top fixings of the suspension can wear, especially the plastic domes.
Just remove the small round access panel at the rear and shine a torch onto the back of the drum. If it was just bearing failure there would be rusty brown marks running down from the bearing area. If the alloy tube has come loose the marks down the back will be a dirty grey colour.
Looks like there may be a weakened suspension unit on the motor side. Press down one each side and see if the resistance is the same on both sides.
Does appear to be around the age you say from that, didn’t think they were still marketing the DIF16 at that age but yours does have B1 UK which differs slightly from my old manual.
4 years old, are you sure? If you give us the full serial number and commercial code from the rating plate we could date it accurately but the only DIF16 manual I have is dated 2006.
Saw that post from Mifa last night, I thought right away that he was having a go a UKWG’s so didn’t answer it at the time.
It does seem to be an area that is prone to rusting sadly. Over the years I have had to attend to my W1607 a couple of times for this issue. Fortunately my drawer is a pull out type so I have been able to remove it and rub down the rusted areas to the bare metal then repaint them using widely available white enamel appliance paint. Not sure how you would manage with your pop out drawer?
This is the most common door switch for that age of appliance.
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/c00513644-dishwasher-door-lock
You should really have a look at the switch mechanism first to see if there any obvious failures or burnt wiring to the micro switch. Be sure to isolate from the mains before opening up the door and watch the razor sharp edges of the inner door panel. One other thing to look out for with integrated appliances is to make sure the door is not fouling on the surrounding units.
