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The pump is more likely to fail on the later stages as it gets warm and it also runs for much longer during spin and dryer operation.
It’s a 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} Indesit made machine, for it to have reached the age it has is well above the average. The electronics are one of the many weak points on them. However given the huge cost difference and allowing for the fact that a drain pump on any washer dryer of this age is certain to be very tired I will leave it to you to decide on changing the pump or the pcb. 😉
The pump should flick round in quarter turns. There should be virtually no side to side movement of the end of the pump impeller. TBH most pumps on an 8 to 10 year old washer dryer would be well worn by now. Changing the pump is the only sure way to eliminate it as the cause of the fault.
ploane wrote:
Where is the worm pump
🙂 Should have been worn pump. I did say that if you have a standpipe then you didn’t need to try it over the sink, only if it was connected directly to your under sink plumbing.
It will add a small amount of water every time you restart it, that is few seconds that it fills through the cold rinse valve to lift the eco ball.
Lights 1 and 6 is not a recognised error code.
If it goes into a standpipe then you don’t need to try it over the sink. The machine has a small trickle of cold water running in during the drying cycle to keep the condenser cool. Could be a worn pump seizing intermittently? Does it have the pump filter on the front, either way does the pump impeller feel a bit loose with side to side movement?
Black dust is simply that and nothing else. Dust from the motor carbon brushes that is always found on most pcb’s after several years of use. How is the waste outlet pipe connected at the outlet end, does it go into a standpipe or is it directly connected to the under sink plumbing? Is it possible to try the machine with the outlet hose hooked over the side of the sink?
The plastic ball is the ECO ball. The water fills for a few seconds through the cold rinse valve to raise the ball. This blocks off the sump preventing the detergent from being flushed down into the sump, keeping it in the drum for maximum efficiency.
Those error codes are correct, however it should specify that only the bottom five of the six lights are used for error codes .
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8061706-washing-machine-water-heater Personally I still think the main pcb could be at fault.
As the replacement is if I understand you is a previously used element then the rubber grommet could be already swollen. A bit of washing up liquid might help. A brand new element would have a grommet that would slip in easily.
As the whole of the outer drum is stainless steel there is unlikely to be any major limescale build up anywhere else. You have very little to loose by trying a different element but I fear the worst tbh. 🙁
Thermistor may appear o/c with a simple continuity test. Resistance at room temp could be around 28k ohms. After testing the wiring from the heater to the main pcb that leaves you with the unfortunate possibility of a main pcb failure.:(
Never actually had one go through a full test cycle, never had the need to try it truth to tell. Have you meggered the element yet?
