[jontymox]

Quite right chaps!

Revisited, and the belt was indeed fitted incorrectly around the jockey pulley wheel.

Refitted correct way, and all fine.

Wondering if customer should contact the company who have fitted, and caused belt to break twice??

jonty

[jontymox]

Thanks Dave,

Perhaps I should cut out/file the plastic housing, as I fear the belt will fail again?

[jontymox]

Oh…. no, I haven’t tried downloading an app, as I’m not au fait with such electronic wizardry!

Sounds like it may help in diagnosing this problem…

[jontymox]

p.p.s. Does anyone know the purpose of the small electrical unit close, but separate to, the electronic control module?

Samsung refer to it as a “harmonic coil.”

[jontymox]

p.s. I don’t suppose a faulty drum imbalance sensor on top of the tub could cause this fault?

[jontymox]

Well, the pressure chamber is clean, and vacuum hose fine.

Have tried the recalibration mode via the delay start & temp buttons etc….

Heater fine too. (1550 Meg’ Ohms resistance & 27 Ohms continuity)

I’ll try a pressure switch, otherwise suspect electronic control module.

jonty

[jontymox]

Was unsure, and realise these pressure switches are difficult to test conclusively.

I feel it remains suspect, as washer stays on 10 minutes remaining and shows no sign of wishing to fast spin, (falsely detecting water in tub/drum?) yet drains and agitates fine…

jonty

[jontymox]

You may well be right, (again!) Dave.

The pressure switch gives an Ohms reading when testing between the two outer switch terminals, but doesn’t vary when blowing gently into the unit.

Alas, the part is out of stock (DC9601703G) and I’m struggling to obtain one reasonably quickly…

jonty

[jontymox]

Precisely the plan when returning to workshop, and lo and behold, a loose neutral connection at mains suppressor!

New spade connector, and all good…

Regards,

jonty

[jontymox]

Thanks scots,

Well, it’s a difficult one…

I’ve just been doing some more electrical tests etc, and I do wonder if the mains suppressor is faulty.

The dryer is now tripping more consistently, and only when the start switch is pressed. (wondering if the mains suppressor has a momentary voltage surge?)

The start switch is fine, and I can confirm the dryer trips even with the motor, and start capacitor disconnected, but only when start button depressed….

jonty

[jontymox]

Good evening,

Thanks again to Dave for the wiring diagram.

However, I’m struggling to locate the cause of tripping on this dryer and have brought it back to my workshop for further tests.

The dryer will usually trip when the start switch is pressed, although not always!

I replaced the shot heater unit, and thought all was well.

Yet, it now intermittently trips…. I’m happy with the motor Ohms resistance readings, and even substituted it for an exact motor I have in stock, but it still tripped out.

If I disconnect the upper blue (neutral) from the timer, which connects to the white on the motor it does not trip…

Anyone who can shed some light on this problem?

jonty

[jontymox]

Good evening Dave, (again!)

It’s a brushless “inverter” motor, and I haven’t checked the pressure switch.

Seems like that I ought to, and go from there…

Thanks,

jonty

[jontymox]

Replaced heater unit yesterday, having checked again for possible causes of TOC blowing…. all fine.

Thanks again for all your advice and help.

jonty

[jontymox]

Thank you Murv,

Will test capacitor as suggested, as something must be causing TOC to fail.

Kind regards,

jonty

[jontymox]

The heater manufacturer is Backer, so I’ll try further to see if ‘stat’s available separately.

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