[Kentish]

Is the condenser clear?
sounds to me like it’s not.

[Kentish]

Program interruption by the user instead of allowing it to runs its full program?

[Kentish]

Mark Flint wrote:

Was that for induction hobs? This one is a ceramic hob.

All induction hobs are ceramic glass.

[Kentish]

the Zanussi dishwashers of that vintage didn’t use cords for their springs, they were hooked around the base plate.
you will need to remove the outer door panel (don’t forget there’s probably the lower screw each side to remove as well as the normal screws to remove the outer door panel, then you should be able to see the screws that hold the kick panel.
To be frank, at 24/yrs old Imwould consider a repair a waste of money, as so much will be obsolete for it anyway.

[Kentish]

Check for broken wires especially at the front of the dryer assembly. I’ve had it a few times

[Kentish]

Could it have been out into a demo mode?

[Kentish]

I would take the wash motor out and check the impeller isn’t restricted with debris or those horrible plastic detergent wrappers that are supposed to dissolve, but don’t always.

[Kentish]

I’ve not seen any dispenser issues on these older Miele’s.
I would suggest it could be the dispenser tub hose, or the black hose from the filter chamber to the y joiner is blocked thus not allowing air balance.
before changing any parts, I would check and clear all the hoses attached to the y joiner. That would be my first go to.

[Kentish]

Had thing on a Neff a while ago, I can remember the model number, but it was the sensor probe that came through the cavity at the back and top. It was a mod part/kit and had instructions specifying the included mounting bracket must be replaced at the same time.

[Kentish]

Is it giving a hard frost on the fridge evaporater wall or soft snowy ice?
If its not a hard frost. it sound like a weak compressor anyway.

[Kentish]

Mark Flint wrote:

Yes, a genuine part will now be fitted.
Thanks, Mark

Before you do, I would get a decent DMM with or without insualtion testing (up to 1000v) or buy a stand alone insulation tester.
You cannot test safely and with certainty without it/them.

I myself have a Fluke DMM, which is fantastic but getting long in the tooth.
I also have a Fluke DMM with insulation test that goes up to 2gig.
I also have a stand alone Fluke insulation tested that runs to 11gig.
My prefered options are the first and last, but weight saving means I only carry the middle one in my tool bag

[Kentish]

Mark Flint wrote:

The client replaced the element him self. Both the new one and the old one meter at 22 ohms.

Thanks

i never trust anything a customer fits, as most likely it’s the cheapest they can find.
Its not the resistance of the element, but it’s resistance to earth. Everything you have said points to an insulation breakdown, and whilst a good multimeter would show it(my old Fluke went to 500meg ohm on resistance, a megger would show it more easily even when cold.

[Kentish]

Have you metered or meggered the elements?
Seen so many ovens of all makes tripping when hot, especially with air fryers being so common

[Kentish]

It normally the condenser piping straight from the compressor that provides the heat.

[Kentish]

Wash element or drain pump?

[Author]

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