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Mark Flint wrote:
Thanks for you input. I’ve only been in this line of work for 8 months so definitely still learning.
Without sounding unpleasant, we can tell youre new to the game:)
We all were at some point.
Are you self employed or for a company, and what is your background?
Live testing especially with water isn’t something most/many would do.
Something I always told anyone I was training, “always be sure you can get out what you put into a machine”…ie, make sure it drains first before you put water into it:)
Feel free to ask awayThe water is controlled norrmally on one side by the user activating the switch in the door for water, and the machine asking for water for the icemaker….not the user.
I must say you seem to have too greater a concern for water flow rates. A fridge freezer like this and all fridge freezers that take water do not dispense it at full flow like a tap.
There is no harm in declining a job if it’s something you haven’t done before. After 42 years, whilst there isn’t anything I havent done now, I don’t bother with American fridge freezers.Why should there be water flow when you press the ice button?
Without make and model numbers, youre not going to get much input
I have never known a dishwasher allow full flow of water, they always restrict it. Well that’s the ones I have seen in 42 yrs anyway.
I find irs normally about 20 seconds with everything fully lit, and then if you’re cancelling a program it goes into drain and will drain whether the door is open or closed.
I’ve had the progress indicating unit that shines into the floor cause some really strange faults in the past, admittedly if they haven’t been plugged back in correctly after putting it back together. It’s just a thought.
I’ve seen a lot more corrosion on oven cavities in the last few years. The biggest reason I feel is the growth of oven cleaning companies and the chemicals they use.
If an oven cavity is that corroded, I see no point in trying to save the oven, as rust will continue to spread.sorry, I omitted you also need to remove the Allen head bolts around the back plate from inside the drum. Once that is off, you can access the heater and one shot stat
Cheers m8
Appriciate the input, but this selector is fighting when it turns at places and wanting to return to the point it is on when you try and turn it.
Its almost missing some programs altogether, so it feels like somehting broken within the switch uint itself.
