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Re: Whirlpool American f/f 3XART721FO
Hi Steve
You have a PM 😉3/4 Femail Iron Pipe (FIP) not sure what 1/4c is probably bore size?
ThanksRe: Trading slogans?
Once followed a van with “Little Hampton Erections” writen on it……………………………..scaffolding company 😆
Re: Alias Haier
kwatt wrote: Does anyone know how best to create a controlled explosion that would blow an appliance apart using household stuff that we can get at the supermarket or a DIY store?
Of course this is therapeutic in intent.
K.Yes, but!!!!!! Sorry I can’t disclose it on the net.
What we could try is sticking one in a Samsung fridge 😯 now there’s a thought. 😯
Re: Crooked Customers
Crooked Customers, yeh we all have few 👿 the bug*ers that don’t pay their bills, even after taking them to the courts. Dont bother now. We usually write of a few hundred quid a year to them. Have you noticed how many of them either only have mobiles or answerphones?
I could do with a few thugs for hire in my area to sort it out 😯 😉Re: Alias Haier
lee8 wrote:Why would you avoid one of the worlds largest appliance companies ?
There crap for sure, but repair is our game and I’m damned if such crap will make me afraid.
You may find it easier to list the appliances that arn’t Haier originals. 😉 You winding me up 😉 I am not afraid of them I have just got standards and fortunatley plenty of other calls to be able to blacklist them. It’s bad enough working on integrated appliances due to crap installation by so called trades people who I wouldn’t pay with washers.
I prefer to leave Haier to the local competition and let them get frustrated and waste their time. If you are happy with them then that is up to you. Give it ten years and Haier may be producing better quality and I might change my mind, if I havn’t retired 😀Anyway back to the thread please 😉
Re: Hotpoint WDD960P bearings gone
gandh1 wrote:
incidentally would same bearings on say a 6kg drum that was deep f2b but narrow in diameter wear quicker than those with a shallow drum f2b and widest diameter?❓ Where’s the translate/predictive text button mods?
Re: Hotpoint WDD960P bearings gone
Madmac wrote:What amazed me about the first WMA’s was somebody actually got paid to sign off that truly awful seal set up, how in their wildest dreams did they think it would last ?
Or maybe that was the point ❓ Came back to bite them on the arse though ‘cos loads failed within 12 months if i remember rightly 🙂Designed at the “Early learning School” no wages required just the odd banana and a glass of milk 😆 Truth is the design crew are probably Italians pretty good at cars although they would be stumped if someone else hadn’t invented the “Wheel” :rotl:
Re: Hotpoint Smart Cards
Phidom wrote:I think most of us have bypassed them and just send the boards to EMW.
Yeh I know I just thought it would be nice for educational reasons especially when fitting a new board :rolls:
Do you know there are some naughty people out there who have “cracked” more complicated TV satalite cards, naughty :rolls:
Re: Masterpart web site problems?
Penguin45 wrote:I have told that there is a lot of updating work being done on the Masterpart site..
Chris.Poor beggars are probably trying to keep up with all the price hikes, can’t have their profits going down you know 😉Re: Wiring in a new oven.
Nice one Martin, you may now take any prize of the top shelf 😆
Just to elaborate and hope I am not teaching “Granny to suck eggs” but there are probably a few that are not sure what I am on about.
The old ohms law tells us that: watts divided by voltage = amps.
Roughly for every 1000w of heater then that equates to 4 amps (1000 divided by the 230- 250 supply voltage ), so a oven of 2.5 kw requires 10 amp 3kw 12amps.
I fitted a new Elux oven yesterday. it was rated at 3kw and Elux. quoted fuse protection of between 16- 20 amps, bit strange really as the oven could only be used as a fan oven or grill, not together. Only one element could be in circuit at once. Max 2kw ish 😕
I carry a supply of 13 amp sockets plus 13amp fused spurs, a box of backboxs etc. and install what is required, bit of a pain in the ar8s when you only expect it to be a short job and this comes along.I am not exactly complying to Part P as I don’t issue a certificate of additions (kitchens and bathrooms) but as I trained as a electrician then I am willing to fight my corner if anyone decides to challenge me over it. My opinion is that the oven is now installed as it should be and a lot safer to boot, more than the previous electrician or kitchen fitter left it.
It makes one think the next time we decide to connect one up 😉
Re: Wiring in a new oven.
gandh1 wrote:[i see where this is heading…
with regards to this, if we declined the fit because we werent happy with the lack of componentry would we still be allowed to insist on payment because the customer requested connection, as opposed to part p?
Ok maybe I should expand a little 😉 . Oven rated at 2.5-3kw supply circuit 30-45 amp fused at consumer unit
Re: RE AEG Single electric Oven
As you say sound like you have a bad connecton on the board, dry joint possibly 😉
Re: indesit wil 103
tedd wrote:is there any thing common to look for on this model apart from the obvious things regards tedd.
There is Tedd , the usuall cr8p electronics but don’t trust what they say about the fuse etc. start there and check supply first, as I know you would :rolls:
My money would be on the module but you will have to checkRe: Wiring in a new oven.
Interesting little post 🙂 which brings to light a little puzzler.
Ok you turn up to fit the new oven or cooker and you find it’s wired into a cooker connection plate via the double pole cooker switch, do you just just connect the new appliance as the old one was, or is there something else you need to take into consideration?
