[menderman]

kwatt wrote:So long as they are reasonably well ventilated there will not be a problem with that.

The problems come when there’s nowhere for the warm air to go at the back but, so long as you’ve got a way for that to expel you shouldn’t have any issues.

K.

Thanks for that.
It will be sitting next to an under-counter freezer at the end of the run so it also has an end panel. There is a 400mm x50mm vent cut into the back of the worktop above it and is 1.5cm away from the end panel and 1.5 from the freezer, also a 1cm gap above to the worktop and its on its feet.
My main concern is that in the event of a warranty claim they will not honer it because of its site next to another chiller sauce like they say in the manual.
The silly thing is that the only models that start with an S are big tall units – ones that you are unlikely to stand next to each other

[menderman]

Well here I am again.
Same fridge almost exactly 5years to the day since my last post. The fridge suddenly froze everything in the lower section so I turned the stat to zero and back to 3 1/2 and since then its been working fine. The odd thing is as I mentioned 5 years ago since i fitted that new stat I had to have it set on 7 which was higher than my original stat ever needed but now all of a sudden 3.5 is what it needs. – Any ideas.

[menderman]

Thanks Dave – I thought the shop monitored these forums to be honest but will do.

EDIT – Email sent

[menderman]

possible part
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/d805…ling-fan-motor

Yes that is the part and my oven is listed there.
Any thoughts of fitting that compatible part instead of the twice the price OEM one.
Also I think I am looking at a gas safe engineer because from what I can see the hob burners have to be removed so if the compatible one packes in then its extra labour to replace again 🙁

[menderman]

Gotcha – thanks

[menderman]

i would drop the shop a line and ask if element is available ex stock from manufacturer

What shop, do you mean UKWhitegoods ?
On here it doesn’t say they are not available – only that it could be 2- 28 days

[menderman]

Thanks for your help

[menderman]

Thanks Dave.
But just thinking about this how can it be the oven element because clockwise the selection gos oven then grill and trips when turning to the grill — so going clockwise from oven to grill I am actually turning the power off to the oven and turning it on for the grill.
But going anti clockwise does not trip – so going from the grill to the oven.
Maybe its time to get a whitegoods person in – would they be able to test the element with popper eqipment.

Next problem is that on here and everywhere else seem to be out of stock, here its says 2-28 days

[menderman]

OK. First tried to get it to trip whilst still connected but wouldn’t trip straight away but after a few times back and forth on the selector and all the way around I got it to trip.
So then disconnected the outer two connections which is the outer run – oven element and back and forth on the selector/ all the way round a few gos but could not get it to trip.
Then re-connected and on the first to and fro would not trip but second time after going all the way around the selector it tripped.

[menderman]

will test that thanks

[menderman]

to see earth faults the meter has to be on the highest scale and even then on a 9 volt meter it may not show. Proper insulation testers use a minimum of 230 volts but mostly 500V

I see – thought I was being cleaver and getting my cheapo multi meter out.

Funny that it only started when I changed the switch which made me think I did something wrong there but as you say maybe the element was iffy on the old switch but only showed up as the new switch does things slightly different.
So you are saying – just swap the element.

[menderman]

Sorry Dave I don’t quite understand.

the element might have a slight fault on one side but the contacts of the new switch might connect at slightly different times

So are you saying that when I turn the selector clock wise with the stat already on then the power hits the fault on its nearest side to the power direction but when I do the same in an anti clockwise direction it hits the fault area last and does not trip the rcd

And

also the fault is to earth. we know the elements read ok because they work but you should get no reading to earth. is suspect

I have no reading to earth on the meter. And yes the two elements work.

anything less than 2 million ohms is suspect

not sure what you mean here.

Could it be that I have wired the selector switch wrong even though I took my time and did one at at time with photos

[menderman]

Odd that it was tripping when turned to the grill setting but only from clockwise. But looking at the dial when going clockwise the outer oven section comes just before the grill, so going from outer oven to grill – trips but going from grill to oven does not trip.
But it only trips if the stat is first turned to a setting.

[menderman]

Ok had the back off and the outside section of the top element (oven ) rated 1000W has a reading of 51.4 ohms and no continuity on the simple buzzer setting
And the inside section which is the grill part rated 2000W has an ohms reading of 27.2 and does have continuity on the simple meter buz test.
So can I read from this that at 51.4 ohms for a 1000W element – is the oven section and not the grill that has the issue.
There is no continuity (leak) from either elements to earth.

For reference while I was there the other elements read
Ring rated 2500W = 22.2 ohms
small oven grill rated 1450W = 36.9 ohms
small oven – oven rated 700W = 36.6 ohms

[menderman]

Thanks Dave.
The inside element is the grill. Odd that it was ok until I changed the selector switch and odd that it only seems to trip it if I turn the selector switch clockwise.
Could I use my multi meter to check continuity of the element.? But it does not (seem) trip the RCD every time.

[Author]

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