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NEW UPDATE
I have just noticed that the oven is tripping the RCD but only when. —
The stat temp is set to any temp first and then the selector switch is turned to the grill.
But oddly it only happens if I turn the selector switch in a clock wise direction if I do the same and go to the grill setting but from an anti clockwise direction its ok.
If I turn the selector to the grill first then turn the stat temp then its ok.But on double checking the combo to post here I could not replicate it at first so I carried on all the way around the dial clock wise to the grill again and it then tripped the RCD once more.
Physically the element looks ok. its a oven grill double combined one – this https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/062103004-grill-element
Any Ideaselectrofix wrote:the element is a steel tube thats insulated with a powder. this powder can draw moisture out of the air over time
see how it goes
Dave
Thanks for explaining.
electrofix wrote:elements can soak up moisture over time if not used
if the ingress is not too bad once you heat them up they blow the trip a few times as the water is expelled then they work ok
just see how it goes
Dave
WOW I did not know that. It only did it the once.
We actually never use the grill in the cavity I was testing the new switch on, the top element is a double bend with the inside run being the grill and the outside run the oven, as its big we always use the smaller grill on the other oven cavity instead so yes an unused element and it matches up with what you say.
I don’t quite understand though how moisture can stay in an unused element when it is in the same cavity being heated by other elements to over 200 degrees.The fan ring element is also working ok – tested up to 225 degrees and the cooling fan kicked it at around 190 degrees as read on the separate oven temp gauge I placed in the oven.
So what could of caused the trip ?
The only thing I can think of is that I have known a bulb blowing to trip an RCD but the bulb is working ok. But I have also seen these filament bulbs blow but then the filament catch and re attach itself. I will look at the bulb once the cavity has cooled down.Grill element is working ok, and stat comes on and off keeping it at the 150 I set it at. Also works ok with grill and fan setting, 3 mins after turning it all off the cooling fan came on, I have a separate thermometer in the oven to check against the stat temps and that read 175 degrees. The fan came on for 8 mins.
So it looks like the cooling fan is working ok too.Next up the fan element.
Update.
I brought the new switch from here this one and as the switch had been replaced before it was an exact match (the oem one was brown and slightly different)
Fitted and all working ok. So thank you Dave for your help there.BUT everything was tested before the top was put back on and all elements were ok. With the top off took the opportunity to clean some of the surfaces as they were dark brown I was very careful not to get anything wet and used a foam cleaner a small section at a time.
After the top was but back a and a final test done there was a small “pop” and the whole oven went off and tripped its RCD. It could of been a pop noise or its just the noise ove everything going off in one go.
turned back on and currently testing one element at a time.
Just tested the top and bottom element position and both elements work ok, stat comes on and off maintaining temp and cooling fan comes on after about 20 mins and 185 degrees oven temp, fan also stays on for 15mins after turning off.Will report back with grill element test.
New update on this. I wanted to buy from here but in the end went with a delonghi spares place as that said is for the oven. I brought a new lwns and a new neon. So that part is all fixed now. Just an observation that the new neon is not as bright as the old one but I can live with that.
Thanks all for your helpelectrofix wrote:
dont know that its not the sort of info they publish
try sending the shop a message and while you at it find out if they can get correct part
or by searching “neon panel lamp” you can get
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122010995831?hash=item1c686c0c77:g:rMUAAMXQeW5TXfwq
Dave
Thanks a lot for that – I have been searching ebay for ages and did not see that, maybe because i was adding oven to the search. But it does need to be high temp proof and that one says 120°. The one in the oven now says 150°
tubafan wrote:
But is that the diameter of the hole it fits or of the outer lens, which will be larger than the hole?
Yes that is my question too.
I have done some more accurate measurements with my vernier gauge and the hole is 8.6mm. A 8.5mm drill fits nice but when I measure the drill I get 8.47mm.
The outer lens on the other oven neon is 10mmOh yeh that’s right and right at the top but I still missed it :eek:. But it dose not state what it refers to – is that the hole diameter or is that the external – wider part.
Just to add that the hole in the front panel is 8mm anyone know if this https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/p093040-rangemaster-oven-indicator-lamp will fit the hole please
I recently went through the same dilemma – see here https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forum…old-dishwasher.
In the end I scrapped it and brought a new mid range Bosch – the cheapest one piece tub version I could find but after finding out about the crap heaters they fit
I do wish that I had not brought the Bosch and instead just gone for a £200 currys + £75 for a 5 year guarantee, then if it breaks down after 5 years the cost would be £55 per year — less than £1 a week. Or I could kill or cure in an attempt at a fix myself after 5 years.
Compared to the cost of a mid range bosch at £449 = £89 per year.My avatar is the dismantled old bosh decorating my lawn 😀
Thinking I may as well change the whole unit with one of these https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/p093…indicator-lamp.
And just cut off the old one and crimp on a couple of spade connectors. But there are no measurements listed with the one on here – will it fit my hole ? What about wattage.Also the original is in two parts – a mushroom head which stays in the front panel and the separate push in neon – here is the neon section https://www.espares.co.uk/product/es…er-signal-lamp you can see the thinner end that pushes in.
Does the one on here I linked to work the same ? as I they need to be able to be unpluged to remove the front panel.
Thanks
Thanks. Turns out its this https://markselectrical.co.uk/DTR906DF_DeLonghi-90cm-Dual-Fuel-Range-Cooker
CDA no longer “Make” them. Mine is about 12 years old but that delonghi is exactly the same apart from cosmetic knobs and handles so should be hopful for parts as recently CDA have told me they no longer do the elements for it..I tried wiggling the knob but it made no difference. My top was off 5 years ago for the same burnt out switch so the screws played nicely.
From now on I will adopt the correct method of turning the selector first then the stat to turn on and to turn off it will be stat off then selector. Apparently turning the selector with the stat (power on ) can cause arching and burning. Makes sense to me as that’s the element we mostly use and that,s the selection on the switch that fails
