[MickGeorge]

Re: Hoover drum lifters

Done one of these from via the sump – screwdriver just about lines up but be careful not to loose the screw as is stainless and non magnetic! 🙂

[MickGeorge]

Re: Indesit W103UKBG Overfilling – module?

Thanks Martin – will give EMW a ring to find cost

[MickGeorge]

Re: Hoover Twin Tub : pedestal bearing

Managed to get one from CDS with the part no you gave me.. well its in the post anyway. So many thanks for your help Martin.

[MickGeorge]

Re: Hoover Twin Tub : pedestal bearing

Tried Qualtex but won’t give me any info as no a/c with them.. thet gave me CDS phone no but tried them they say it’s obsolete.. so if you could do a garage search for me Martin would be very obliged.. Ive got a pedestal, circlip and washer on my van so just need the bearing if you have one… Many thanks

[MickGeorge]

Re: Hoover Twin Tub : pedestal bearing

Thanks Dave, will give tham a ring..

[MickGeorge]

Been back and checked motor – that seems to be testing out ok – still think it maybe module but customer getting Hoptiont out under 5yr part warranty due to cost so unless she lets me know looks like I might never know the fault.

Thought I might have had a bit more response to this fault – just thought it might have been a bit more of a common fault that it appears to be. 😮

By the way does anybody know what the third pair of contacts do on the main on/off switch as they only make momentarily when you switch on or off?

Thanks 🙂

[MickGeorge]

When I used to work at the Electricity Board many years ago (about 30… eee.. them were the days) we always did an earth test on the appliance with a drumond tester (which for those of you who arn’t as long in the tooth as me and don’t know what they were, was a lamp in circuit with a resistance and insulated to 415 volts). These were standard issue and were the only piece of test equipment we were issued with and most testing was done with the appliance live!

Things have moved on since the bad old days but I still keep a similar tester in my tool box (old habits die hard) or use a voltmeter and always perform a Live to Earth test (sould indicate 240v – low voltage indicates a poor earth/ no voltage – no earth), Neutral to Earth (240v reading will show up wrong polarity) and Live to Neutral test both before and after I remove the plug from the socket.

This will tell me 1) there is earth continuity at the machine and the correct polarity(plug connected) 2) I have pulled the right plug out to disconect the machine before I delve my mits in and 3) there is no live into the machine if all you can do is switch the appliance off.

To me this is a simple and quick test on those appliances that have an accesible terminal block or mains connections and will show up any wiring faults that need an electrician to rectify and the customer can be made aware.

It also prevents those “ouch you b*&^{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}$d” 😯 and the frizzed hair moments :eeek: when you realised that the obvious plug you pulled or the customer told you to pull wasn’t the right one or the switch was faulty or wired wrong!

[MickGeorge]

Thanks flyman – might go back and check that out as module cost is an arm and a leg, special order with connection and non returnable if it an’t the problem!

[MickGeorge]

Thought I’d let you know that after another two visits finally cured this one.. Transfered the drain hose to a sink outlet!… 😕

There was a leak on the oulet pipe where it went through the wall (been bashed by the garage door some 6mths before so customer thought irrelivent) and was leaking back into the house slightly, down the wall and under the floorboards into a elecrical junction box where it was tracking accross. All this happening behind the kitchen cupboard and inaccesible as usual as fitted by kitching fitter!. All just coincidental as it took till the fab cond rinse for the discharging water to build up and the junction box to start tracking. ❗

Changed oulet hose so it emptied into sink waste so no leak from pipe now no smell from washing machine/connector box… advised her to get electrician to sort out junction box and make safe and plumber to fix waste pipe (all will involve ripping out kitchen units… so finally a happy customer re. washing machine, not so happy re kitchen units… 🙄

Interesting points of view in the discusions about mega testing btw.. 🙂

[MickGeorge]

Looks like you guys have been Megaring electronic machines without any problem ortherwise you would have said so as far as I can see megaing the whole machine does’nt effect the control module. Thanks for your words of wisdom on the subject.

Ref water valve on this machine.. it’s a cold fill only and uses a dual valve, one for prewash other for main wash both for conditioner rinse.. tried disconecting prewash valve as that’s the one they use for cond rinse but dificult to say if that’s where the smell is coming from as it comes and goes and the valve only gets warm not hot..

Going back to check out motor again if all checks out ok will leave prewash valve disconnect and see if that stops smell.

Thanks

[MickGeorge]

I thought circ pump may have been prob but only feels warm not hot + only happens towards end of prog – thought it would happen b4 if it was circ pump.

Seems strange it only happens on last rinse and also smell comes and goes. Thinking about it today and wondered if it might be high speed windings although tested ok with mega but suppose they could be shorting?

No leaks apparent on machine either.

Thanks for suggestions – just thought someone might have experenced this as well.

[MickGeorge]

Think I’ve met all the current speed regulaters today – little old lady’s @25 mph – learner drivers @ 20mph – buses at 15mph stop/start and of course the driver who stops at mini islands whether anything is approaching or not. Still it keeps my speed down if not my blood pressure!

Seriously though I think safe sensible driving is the key and avioding the unpredictable. A little old lady driving @ 30mph in a 40mph limit can cause more accidents due to people taking risks to overtake than someone driving at 50mph along the same road when there a clear road and good visibility but it is the 50mph driver who will be caught by the speed camera, fined with three points on his licence and the little old lady will carry on oblivious to the danger she is causing. 😕

[MickGeorge]

Good idea about auto speed regulaters, Neptune, been tossing that one around in my head for some time just don’t know how they could enfoce it for everyone plus there would always be someone who would sell you a bypass kit. The biggest advantage I can see is that it would get rid of those awfull speed bumps us drivers have to contend with.

Why don’t they have a standard for speed bumps and then mark them with a speed you can drive over them without wrecking you suspension? Is it just here in Brum or is it everywhere where you drive over one quite happily at 20mph ok but the next one is so severe that anything greater than 5mph your spares take a 2 ft leap in the air!.

But then don’t get me started about speed bumps expecially the one they hid under a pedestrian crossing and hide the warning sign up in the trees!

Noticed in a motoring mag the other day while waiting for a machine to leak there is an increase of 45{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} increase in suspension and steering faults in cars over the last 3 years but didn’t say speed bumps were contributary – bet they are!

[MickGeorge]

41001234 are the right paddles – the machine was a 1600 rpm spin so THANKS Flyman for that info. Nice to know there are still engineers out there who know what’s what! 🙂

[MickGeorge]

Thanks for the info Flyman, had two of the same fault and been changing bearings and rear seal – even tried shiming the drum forward in one case it was so bad. It’s great to know there’s a mod kit out there.

[Author]

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