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Re: Proline DWI 5212P
I guess my foresight will pay-off then.
I appreciate you henerally get what you pay for in this life. So I bought an inexpensive dishwasher and then paid £70 for the 5 year total product support.
OK, it might break down after 18 months but it will be fixed/replaced at Comet’s expense not mine. My only financial exposure arises should Comet go bankrupt.
The Whirlpool model prior to this lasted 3 years. It’s equally possible that an expensive model could break down at any time. However, the more expensive the purchase price the more expensive the total 5 year cover.
Re: Samsung RS21DGRS Ice Build Up problem
and connect the electronics to some heath robinson arrangement.
Not quite, an approved, 12v D.C. power supply………the same unit that I’d use for a computer device using the same fan.
and you have no clue what the airflow rate is or if it is sufficient to keep the food at a properly maintained tempersature to preserve it, so you could end up with food poisoning.
If the fridge has any intelligence it will detect the required temp (set from the front “user accessible” panel) and account for the increased/decreased airflow.
You also have not a clue what the next person’s PC fan’s speed, diameter or airflow rate is that they happen to take out the “spares” box and therefore you can’t say that the next one will be safe either as you don’t have the facts to back it up without exact specifications.
Why should I need this data? Samsung refused to supply this info. to me whewn requested some weeks back. Do you know the required airflow rate ?. I’d assume that having installed a replacement fan the test has to be…….. is my beer/wine/cheese/ etc. coled to the required temp. as per the requested level on the front panel……and it is.
That is because refrigeration has many more potential dangers than just leaking on the floor, not working or frazzling out. They are made to keep food safe and prolong the lifespan of that food, incorrect airflow will hamper that.
You are so right. When the fan failed completely and Samsung were unable to provide a speedy response my beer/wine/cheese etc was a dog. Now they are perfect.
Do I support that parts are so expensive, no, not at all. In fact, if you ask the engineers on this site I would bet you’d get 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} support for the notion that they are vastly over-priced but, as I all too often find myself telling people, we don’t make the prices we just have to live with them. We despise the high spares pricing just as much as everyone else as we’re overcharged massively never mind the public that do not have access to whatever pittance of discount we are allowed.
Give me a break lads. My fix cost me nothing…. other than a few minutes…well, abouy an hour all told.
And, we even hand out free advice on how to use appliances as well as the better ones to buy, ones that don’t break down so often!
Like me. But unlike me, your advice isn’t censored. 😆
A new panel at the best part of £100. Do I think that’s fair, not really, but that’s the solution regardless of who fits it.
If you’d bothered to read all my posts you’d have realised Samsung already replaced this part under warranty ONCE. It then failed after 8 months. They only offer three months warranty on replacement parts.
and could lead to tears when an electric module blows up, a pipe gets fractured or a cabinet gets punctured. You can take all the risks you wish with your appliance – do not expect us to suggest that others do the same
.
Firs, I never suggested others should follow my advice. I only posted my experiences in case others could benefit from the info. Second, how the hell could pipes get fractured from my installation of a 12v d.c. fan in place of the Samsung 12v fan ? And cabinets punctured? My solution is not rocket science guys. It’s on a par with the Russian solution to writing in a zero-gravity environment as opposed to the U.S. solution.
.
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Th U.S. developed a modified Biro
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.The Russians used
the pencil 😆 😆 😆
Lighten-up guys,
We can argue semantics all day, each time I get to describe my innovative solution to a massive problem that Samsung appear to have with regard to their frost-free fridge/freezers.Like I keep saying…..my solution IS working. There’s no immense noise (I dropped the volt supply to 6v) there’s a noticable supply of cool air in ALL parts of the fridge, there’s no build-up of ice……… I think Samsung should be beating a path to my door to seek distribution rights 😆
MikeRe: Samsung RS21DGRS Ice Build Up problem
I’m staggered.
You’ve made it very clear that safety is paramount.
I agree.
That in no way changes the fact that I HAVE SOLVED MY PROBLEM using parts that are fit for the purpose and utilise voltages that are extremely safe.
This is a public forum and I believe the readers should be treated as adults. Let them decide if a posted solution is for them – albeit with an admin’s warning that the suggestion does not come with any professional approval.
I could be mistaken but I feel that this site is more about generating leads for service engineers. Self applied fixes are therefore not welcome.
I again stress, my solution is fully operational two months down the line, has avoided costly and possibly unneccessary repair work/visits/expense and is making use of parts designed for the purpose if not entirely for the environment.
That said, your site was the spawning ground for my radical idea and for that I thank you and your contributors.
As a courtesy to this site and its readers I felt it would help to publish how I had resolved what is clearly a widespread problem.
I invite any new readers who wish to learn more to PM me.
I will not post openly on this site from this point onwards providing admin. leaves this post unaltered.
Note, I have not publicly made any suggestions that may be deemed harmful to life, limb or equipment.
Thanks,
MikeRe: Samsung RS21DGRS Ice Build Up problem
Post deleted – Posts that can put readers in a position that could cause damage to either the appliance or themselves, cost them vast amounts of money to rectify or write off the machine will not be allowed.
Re: Samsung RS21DGRS Ice Build Up problem
The pictures were very helpful. I have had almost identical issues with my Samsung fridge/freezer. I’ve posted on this site my solution and it has not been well accepted by the engineers on this site.
However, when I contacted Samsung after 23 months (24 month warranty applies to these units) they attended my house and replaced the entire “cool-wall” panel – including the fan fitted into that panel. The engineer stated that the replacement was an “improved” version, If that’s true, ensure you get the updated version when they attend. Don’t just get them to repair by means of defrosting.
When my replacement part was fitted it lasted for 8 months before the fan packed-in. Removing the “cool-panel” causes a minor problem in so far as the upgrade appears to be the application of self-adhesive foam around the periphery of the unit. When removed, some of this breaks-off and stays attached to the back panel. There’s no easy way to then re-attach and ensure an air-tight seal. So you will likely get ice build-up again.
If you wish, PM me for details of how I fixed my problem.
Re: Censorship ?
Kwatt,
your post is sensible, polite and I accept your opinion regarding safety.I can state that the part Samsung replaced after 23 months (a 2 year warranty applied to the fridge/freezer) broke down 8 months later. Samsung only offer three months warranty on parts (and I presume labour re. installing those parts).
I’m not offended by your implication I’m mean – I am however keen to minimise expenses and would not wish to spend £100 plus labour for a part that carried only three months warranty.
I have written to Samsung and received a standard response. There are a number of issues I could debate with regard to the design of these units based upon what I have now learned. Many of my simple ideas would likely apply to all fridge/freezers. But I’ll bounce this issue back into your professional hands…….there are so MANY reports of problems with Samsung units involving similar problems to my own, have you, as a professional trade body never thought to recommend improvements to these units?
My apolgies to Helo_75 for reproducing his PM on the open forum. I trust any further PM’s will be polite.
Mike
Re: Censorship ?
It IS bad form.
But it IS worse to be crude in PM’s.
Refer to my posts on the subject of 12v fans. It’s still working. Get over it guys. The readers of this forum are not stupid. They can understand that “self-fixes” of a product whilst still in warranty will likely invalidate such warranty.
Equally, self-fixes applied in a safe manner on a product that in no way compromises the safe operation thereafter are, at worst, likely to render the product inoperable and at best, fix the issue.
I challenge the non-engineers on this forum to consider the following:
How many times have you called out a professional and the “repair” has, after a short space of time proven to be useless ?I was in that very same position with MY Samsung unit. I’d had the failed unit replaced under warranty once before.
Why should I pay again for a replacement?
This site was most helpful in identifying so mant Samsung problems and for that I thank you all. Do not belittle me for solving my own problems, and do not do so on the spurious grounds that my solution was in any way unsafe.
Read my (locked) post – then decide if I advocated other should undertake unsafe corrective actions.
MikeRe: Not another Samsung SR2029CSS problem? ‘fraid so…
I’ll resist rising to the bait Helo.
wadejohn, earlier this year when my problems first started with my auto-defrost, side-by-side Samsung unit it followed a replacement, in June 2006, of the “cool-wall” back panel in the fridge section.
Fitted into the rear of that large panel (approx 1ft square) is a reasonably large electric fan designed to circulate cool air around the fridge.
As helo points out, when the door opens this fan is supposed to stop. However, my warranty replacement in June 2006 was required as the fan was making serious noises when operating. This was caused by ice build-up.
8 months after that warranty replacement the new, slightly modified assembly (I understand the modification was made to help avoid ice build-up) failed completely in so far as the fan only very intermittently operated even with the door trip-switch taped in the “closed” position.
I was advised to defrost as well and complied but this didn’t help as the fan was not obscured by ice on this occasion. I removed the cool-wall assembly completely and I guess part of the modification was to add sticky-backed foam to the assembly as the removal caused some of this to break away. Replacement therefore resulted in air entering the rear of the assembly – this resulted in ice build-up again.
The complete assembly can be supplied for approx. £90. Fitting would be extra on top of that.
Another thread, now locked, on this forum described how I installed an ex-PC fan in place of the Samsung original. This is powered from a 12v d.c. wall-socket transformer and hence, is perfectly safe. The result is very effective. The entire fridge is now cool throughout – at the temp. required on the front panel. Noise, whilst evident, is minimal. There’s also no ice build-up.
I document my fix for information purposes only. Should you elect to try something similar neither I nor this forum can be held responsible for its success or failure.
Re: Hello folks, help with KGU3201GB/01 please
I shall try putting a small fan, operated off a 12V d.c wall-wart PSU adjacent to the compressor to help it out (keep it’s temp. down a bit). I admit that this is a longshot, but have nothing to lose. Daily operating costs for such a fan will be about 1p if that.
💡
Music to my ears Pete.
In my (limited) experience 😆 a 12v d.c. fan sorts every known fridge problem. Can I also suggest you consider using an ex-PC fan as this recycling is most beneficial to the environment.
Mike
😉
Re: Samsung SR-S20
I’d like to be constructive. My “fix” is exactly that – it has solved the one problem I have with the fridge unit (the freezer is fine). The cost was minimal and made use of a perfectly serviceable part that would othersise have languished on a shelf until being thrown.
There are NO dangerous voltages (as Optimist rightly pointed out). Helo_75 previously pointed out this model of fridge is auto-defrost and when the heater is operational the fan will continue to blow (warmed) air around the fridge. I don’t see this as a problem for US as perishable items rarely stay in the fridge for any length of time. Cans, bottles etc would be unaffected by a warmer air circulation for a short period of time.
The overall efficiency of the fridge with regard to being cool throughout has improved; this has permitted me to raise the required temp. to 3c from the original 2c. Food and drinks are not noticably warmer as a consequence.
My 30 year experience in i.t. leads me to believe the fan will continue to operate for some time yet. It’s operating environment is perfect in so far as the air is dry and the fan is constantly running. A true PC fan operates intermittently and often in dusty environments with heat differentials throughout the day/night.
Helo_75 (and others) – I acknowledge your expertise in your chosen profession but please don’t attempt to belittle my fix on the basis that it’s
“and still stupid and unnecessary”
and
really people, pcs fans are for pcs’s not fridge freezers
Consider……the original Samsung fan unit was changed after 23 months and then failed again after 8. Now tell me again……..is my fix that stupid?
Re: Samsung SR-S20
UPDATE:
The computer fan I installed in place of the original Samsung fan is still operating a treat. There’s no longer any water appearing in the base of the fridge and that implies the defrosting operation is working and ice is no longer building-up.
Unconventional fix, but fix nonetheless.
Re: Hotpoint – WD640G – washer dryer – anyone else having is
Hello,
First let me state that I am NOT in any way knowledgeable about washer dryers (or any other white goods). I am also NOT a legal professional. However, I have, over the years, had issues with equipment that have caused me to examine the legal aspects of warranties/purchases etc.The Sale of Goods Act 1979 (and many later amendments) states:
• It is the seller, not the manufacturer, who is responsible if goods do not conform to contract.
• If goods do not conform to contract at the time of sale, purchasers can request their money back “within a reasonable time”. (This is not defined and will depend on circumstances)
• For up to six years after purchase (five years from discovery in Scotland) purchasers can demand damages (which a court would equate to the cost of a repair or replacement).
• In general, the onus is on all purchasers to prove the goods did not conform to contract (e.g. was inherently faulty) and should have reasonably lasted until this point in time (i.e. perishable goods do not last for six years).
• If a consumer chooses to request a repair or replacement, then for the first six months after purchase it will be for the retailer to prove the goods did conform to contract (e.g. were not inherently faulty)
• After six months and until the end of the six years, it is for the consumer to prove the lack of conformity.
Note though, the “reversal of burden of proof” wherein the retailer needs to prove the unit was NOT inherently faulty only applies for the first 6 months and only if you seek repair or replacement.
Trilobite is correct – the retailer is responsible. If the retailer refuses to become involved point out those aspects of the Sale of Goods I’ve listed above. If he still refuses to help demand a full refund. Now, if you paid by a credit card and the unit cost more than £100 refer this matter to your credit card company on the basis of a breach of contract. The credit card company is equally liable with the retailer in such cases and you can often get your money back quite quickly – the c.c. company will then liaise with their retailer (merchant). Meanwhile you can buy an alternate machine.
Let us know the outcome.
Oh, Hotpoint is part of the Merloni Brother’s empire – good luck – you’ll need it.
Re: Samsung SR-S20
im not havin a go, only the posts youve made are both unneccesary and possibly dangerous
😆
Let me know when you are helo_75 just in case I miss the fact from your sharp prose and well structured rant :rolls:
I snipped the wires as it was easier than removing yet another panel in order to gain access to that connector. I also wanted to see if I could solder the 12v power supply to the original fan. This failed – I presume the fan requires other than 12v dc – you might know the answer to that.
Hate to tell you mate, that silly PC fan is shifting sufficient volume of air to force a mild outflow at the uppermost part of the fridge. The temp. throughout is now quite even and food such as green beans are no longer developing mould – pity really, the benefits of penicillin are legend.
Prior to applying my “self-modification” I read these boards in detail. There is a wealth of helpful advice – provided by professional refridgeration experts in many cases. However, I had explained the difficulty in organising a call-out from local engineers – many refused to deal with Samsung units.
You might be interested to know that when I removed the Cool-Wall panel and exposed the cooling unit it was quite frosted and a serious amount of ice (I’d estimate 1/2 a litre if melted) had built-up on the left side of the cooling unit. I made a manual attempt to clear this before refixing the modified cool-wall.
I concluded from the ice build-up that the defrost mechanism is likely not working. Interestingly, with the new fan in place this ice has started to melt. This indicates that perhaps the defrost heater is working after all and the ice was building-up through lack of air-flow – now solved.
helo_75, I’m not advocating self-modification to the nation – simply reporting my own findings. Thanks for the warning about Samsung not touching the unit now 🙁 Of course, they wouldn’t touch it before either. Nor would most of the engineers in the local Yellow Pages 😆
Take your point about genuine parts – Samsung replaced the Cool Wall 1 month short of the unit’s 2 year guarantee period. Their part WAS genuine but carried only a 3 month warranty.
Think I’ll stick with cobbled-together old computer bits mate – they usually carry a 12 month refurb. warranty. After my foray into refridgeration engineering – think I’ll stick with my chosen profession of writing software – and enjoy a chilled beer or two of an evening.
I’m not havin a go helo_75, only that my experience might benefit other readers also inclined to think of alternate solutions. 😆 😆 😆
Re: Samsung SR-S20
An Update:
The temp. fix with the fan placed on a low shelf was not too successful. However, I’ve now removed the Cool Wall cover, complete with the fan that apears not to be working anymore. I needed to cut the yellow, black and grey wires in order to remove the whole part.
Then removed the Samsung original fan and plastic assemby, taping the PC fan into the recess in the moulded cool-wall panel. Connected back to the 12 volt supply and re-fitted the cool wall and air is now blown up and over the cooling element, and distributed thoughout all levels of the fridge.
Elmag – no idea what steam and 77 degrees means – but as regards defrosting I can manually undertake by switching-of the 12volt fan, remove cool wall panel, heat using hair-dryer then replace all. If I have to do this every 6 months it’s acceptable.
Re: Samsung SR-S20
I’ve had problems with my Samsung side-by-side, frost-free unit for the past 3 weeks. It’s only 2 yr 8 months old so I’m reluctant to scrap it but have found it very difficult to get an engineer to come out and those that will want to charge quite a bit.
The freezer side’s OK (for now) but fridge is very cold at bottom, warm at top. The “cool-wall” panel inside the fridge side, on the back wall, low down has a fan inside to circulate cold air upwards and hence out of the vents set at differing heights on the back panel.
I’ve had the “cool-wall” panel off, defrosted with hair dryers, refitted and the fam intermittently works – then stops completely.
As my beer’s getting too cold I sidestepped the issue. My local PC repair shop gave me a PC fan, I wired it to a 12 volt supply using a spare variable voltage transformer (not expensive) and plugged this in the mains. The thin wire passes through the door edge and causes no loss or intrusion of air, is reasonably quiet and helps move the air around inside the fridge.
Depending upon the success I may modify this and place the fan behind the cool-wall panel having removed the Samsung original fan first.
Hey, you’ve gotta get your beer at the right temp.
I’ll report back on progress.
