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nemo
ParticipantRe: Search
i entered WAE24162 and hit the search button and came back with about a dozen results. all results except for your post were in the washing machine/dryers support forum.
August 16, 2006 at 7:20 pm in reply to: whirlpool adg3440 clear one fault and along comes another #184314nemo
ParticipantRe: whirlpool adg3440 clear one fault and along comes anothe
thanks dave for your input,
on closer inspection the flow sensor on this machine is just a reed switch which is removable (the turbine and magnet are encased in the side chamber). took the switch out, tested it with a magnet, worked fine. tested leads to pcb, also fine. re-assembled and put on wash and machine now works. must have been a dodgy contact as you suggested, but what threw me was the fact that this fault immediately followed the first!?
cheers nemonemo
ParticipantRe: Zanuussi big spider feels like one leg is broken.
yes i have come across this before, more than once. usually accompanied by a loud ‘knocking’ on spin. also came across one off the bosch maxx machines where the spider shaft had sheared off completely! on closer inspection you could see the shaft cross section had a void in the metal
nemo
ParticipantRe: configuration code
72630 with pnc 914002096 or pnc 914002133 is 261c169b15c1c7a4
nemo
ParticipantRe: Bosch WFL2260 motor access
when you remove back panel to take belt off, wedge something between tub rear and cabinet, so that when you tilt machine back to access motor the tub isn’t resting against cabinet rear and you can get at bolts with 10mm socket on 1/4″ rachet from socket set you already have rather than buying rachet spanner for job.
nemo
ParticipantRe: Bosch TD WTE 5820GB
first port of call would be whip the lid off and check the union between hose and bottle. the earlier models, the union was a 90deg knuckle bend and prone to getting blocked. if thats clear, blow down the hose to see if its clear, failing that right side off and check pump not blocked with fluff
nemo
ParticipantRe: Neff H7871 combi microwave
yeh usually caused by carbonised food deposits around edge where frame and glass meet, however have had one (and only one) where door glass shattered again after a couple of months. when tested after glass was replaced, found that upon heating one side of the inner door frame became hot to touch very quickly whilst the opposite side was still cool. upon closer inspection found a thin clear film of something (cleaner residue?) smeared on the door interior on side getting hot. managed to clean whatever it was off, and have not been back. that example i put down to left side off door frame expanding at a greater rate than the right side causing glass to shatter.
nemo
ParticipantRe: AEG Lavatherm 3300 TD
is this a condenser model? if so just a thought to make sure no blockages between pump and bottle. if the reservoir in the base remains full it may cut power to heater?
nemo
ParticipantRe: Neff Service Info
see pm
nemo
ParticipantRe: Faulty fridge freezer
[
quote=”jack-frost”]Hi
You can here the click as the compressor would normally start, but nothing happens. Theres a electric box that plugs into the compressor, and all the circuits are live and have correct voltage etc, except the two wires L and N from the capacitor. They are showing continuity on my voltmeter with the compressor attached, when the compressor is disconnected then there is nothing at all not even continuityforgive me if i’m mis-understanding but if you can hear a click then one of two things must be happening. one is either this appliance has a relay starter which is quite common to burn out, or two, after a period of trying to start, the compressor overheat built into the windings is cutting out. the capacitor is just there to make the appliance more cost efficient when running but would have no real assistance in making the compressor start (a capacitor measured directly will not show continuity unless defective). the question first is, is the box that plugs onto the compressor (the starter) a relay type or ptc (thermistor) type. if its a relay starter i’d change that first. if not then most likely your compressor seized.
nemo
ParticipantRe: Zanussi FJS1397W No Motor action
had same symptoms on electrolux EW1200i. (same timer and module) turned out to be pressure switch hose rubbed thru causing anti-suds switch and three stage level switch to close in wrong sequence or not at all. check hoses have not rubbed against cabinet/tub and aren’t leaking air
nemo
ParticipantRe: Zanussi dishwasher that will not empty
i also beleive this has a single circ motor/drain pump. basically it’s one motor with twin impellers and rotates one way to circulate the water and reverses to drain. its quite common for the teeth on the drain impeller to get broken off by something hard passing thru. quick and simple to check, remove the motor and examine the impeller. the drain impeller is the one closest to the motor body and can be viewed thru the exit channel of the impeller body between the 2nd and 3rd seal. no teeth, no drain! i also beleive you can get the impeller as a seperate part no instead of buying the complete motor, but i havent got that info to hand.
nemo
ParticipantRe: ELECTROLUX EW1200i
thanks guys for all your input. got there in the end when symptoms changed. instead of filling to level and tumbling L/R/L the machine filled to rinse level and stopped. found that pressure hose to anti-suds pressure switch had small leak causing pressure switch to drop out. obviously this pcb requires a signal from the anti sud to advance as well as level switch. needless to say this job was a PAIN IN THE ASS as it took four visits and the help of a colleague to find it! i replaced the other pressure switch hose only about 18 months ago on same machine because it had rubbed thru causing machine to overfill. i checked this hose at time and it was fine and secure in plastic housing that runs down side of machine.
nemo
ParticipantRe: ELECTROLUX EW1200i
thanks guys and sorry for not responding sooner but i’ve been on holiday. your thoughts were just confirming my own but alas have fitted new module but to no avail. this lead me to question the pressure system. but all seems to be good there too. this model has a triple level switch for heater protection/ level 1/ level2, and a single rinse sensor if i’m right. unfortunately until i get hold of a wiring digram/ sequence chart for this model I’M STUMPED! if anyone can help i would be grateful the PNC is 914674007/01
nemo
ParticipantRe: Bosch SGS4012GB/07
you sure its not just the nut loose?
if not turn it upside down is easier
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