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Curious one – 11 flashes should relate to pump fault (machine unable to activate it).
As you have had the cross piece out of the back of the machine I would start by checking all wiring around the heater and motor area – very easy to pull/damage it. Second area to check is the water level control system for blockages and switch function.
Beyond that the computer board may well be the culprit.
Pull the plug first…….. :plug:
Regards,
Penguin45.If this is a digital display and it’s flashing “00.00” you would normally hold down 2 buttons and then use the “->” or “<-" buttons to set the time. Up to you to work out which two!
Regards,
Penguin45.I’m keeping the starting blocks handy…….
We are accumulating info through the membership with the fault code thread, but it is painfully slow. We have a small growing fund of money from the Subscribers and an unrsolved rebate about what to do with it. Seems a perfectly reasonable solution to me……….
Chris.
Balance is not usually an issue. If you really want to check, mark one blade of the fan with a marker pen and (with the the power OFF), flick the fan and see where it comes to rest. Do this a few times, it should stop at random. The mark should show you where. If it stops in the same position each time there is a balance problem. This will EVENTUALLY lead to premature bearing wear in the fan motor. However, the fan is not usually a separate spare part and is normally supplied with a new fan motor.
SO……… Don’t worry about it! Just make sure the fan blades clear the back panel and you’ll be fine.
Regards,
Penguin45.Check the Directories section, or type your details into “Repairs@” – you should find a local repairer.
Regards and good luck,
Penguin45.MM
It’s p/no 62053001 – Europart has it as 14-HM-04. Dave’ll probably have one stashed away somewhere though!Chris.
Power supply on power board packing in most likely candidate – runs for a while, warms up, gives up.
Chris.
This is a digital Whirlpool dishwasher in a posh frock. I would suggest holding down the start button for up to 10 seconds, this SHOULD clear it……..
Penguin45.
Hi,
An induction motor will have a minimum of 5 pins. These will give you wash (forward), wash (reverse), slow spin and fast spin. One pin will be the common neutral – often a blue lead. Identify that, then meter to the remaining pins. You should get (typically) a reading of between 20-70 ohms across each set of coils. Difficult to exact! Some modern motors will also have a tacho coil on the end of the motor for speed control purposes – this may give a reading of 100-200 ohms. Obviously any reading to earth is bad newsBTW, all the windings will be interlinked EXCEPT the pin for the reverse winding
Hope that’s some use,
Regards,
Penguin45.Simon/Ant,
DO NOT leave the customer’s machine with the added external neutral……….. There are insurance, liability and safety issues.Good luck with the soldering iron.
Cheers,
Chris.In my experience a blockage in the pump area is far more likely to be the cause of your problem.
This is an extremely complex tumble dryer; I would advise getting professional help.
If the pump IS required it’s about £46 plus the vat.
Regards,
Penguin45.Agbar,
The spray arm and associated tubes are available as a complete assembly from http://www.bshappliancecare.com at what seems to me to be a very reasonable £12.46 plus vat and p+p. Part number is 282979.Regards,
Penguin45.The brushes start off typically 1 – 1.5″ long. If yours are down to a few millimeters, they need to be replaced.
The motor has 3 circuits through it – brushes, field coils and tacho circuit. The first two should give a reading of approx 5 ohms or lower, tacho circuit can vary depending on make of motor, but is generally much higher.
Pull the plug from the wall then the motor before doing any testing. :plug:
Regards,
Penguin45Right, now we have ALL the facts.
It’s a Hotpoint DWF70S, s/no 22706425. It is actually an Indesit in disguise. Starts to fill, drains, then “AL10”.
Any pointers greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris.Re: British Gas…time to tell all
Comet is a bit of an enigma. Traditionally they had a comprehensive service network in the Newpol/Proline days – the end of the Kingfisher business saw it disbanded. Result – glut of engineers on the market – rates fall. I assume with its re-establishment the current shortage of engineers will be exacerbated as they also join in with the collecting of independent engineers.
The upshot is likely to be a draining of our pool, which, let’s face it, is not refilling in the way that it used to. Taken to its logical conclusion, we may be able to shed a lot of the idiots into BG and Comet, leaving us a clearer field for chargeable work. After all there are still plenty of people who do not wish to pay company call out rates, but will pay our more reasonable rates.
The trouble is for those of you reliant on contract work is that if the BG strategy is to take the market, they may well bid for contract work purely on price and the wimps in the insurance side of things will probably buy into it. As soon as they consider that they have full coverage, I’d bet money on this.
If they gradually take over, the punters will eventually become accustomed to the situation – sloppy, unreliable service and attendance, poor parts availability and untrained personel unable to make the diagnosis.
In one way it’s an opportunity for us to ram home our superiority by emphasising our greater abilities and skills -NOW, before the machine really does start to drown us.
Regards,
Penguin45.
