[Pigpen4]

Re: wma36p with a 15 second lights on then out like a light

Send me your email address and I’ll send you it out.
Cheers,
Pigpen.

[Pigpen4]

Re: Smeg dishwasher (unidentified) error E8

I’m assuming this is the one?
819130468 (there’s a picture of it on Connections website)

[Pigpen4]

Re: Smeg dishwasher (unidentified) error E8

Many thanks, Criscold.
I’ll get one on order.
Pigpen.

[Pigpen4]

Re: Tricity Bendix TM310 T/D

Thanks, Tony.
The float was all gunked up on this one, but having cleaned it out, the fault is still there.

Through further digging, I’ve found out that the drain pump should be operating for 18 seconds every 2 minutes, so it’s strange that it waits until around 11 minutes of operation until it cuts out if the drain pump is to blame. With this in mind, and the fact that the Ohms are about right, I’m leaning towards thinking the drain pump might not be at fault.

Any ideas, anyone?

[Pigpen4]

Re: Tricity Bendix TM310 T/D

Tony, did you resolve this (if you can remember that far back)?

I’ve got one with the same problem.

It cuts out after 11 minutes (or about 20 seconds after the condensation drain pump kicks in).

The drain pump measures 773 Ohms (should be around 750, so I think that’s OK).
The drain pipe is not blocked – there is flow going up it and out of the top into the receptacle that I put there to catch it to check it works.

At the point it cuts out, there is not enough water in the bottom to activate the float switch.
I slaved in a new float switch, just in case that was being spurious, but that made no difference.

I slaved in a new cycling thermostat, in case that was cutting it out (although it should only cut the heater out, not stop the whole machine, I believe) but there were no surprises when that made no difference.
It’s not over-heating.

Question: At the risk of becoming a “parts jockey” and trying a new drain pump, followed by trying a new timer, …, etc, does anyone have any idea what may be causing this fault, please ❓
Thanks,
Pigpen.

[Pigpen4]

Re: Hotpoint WF340PB lights flashing

Thanks, Mike.

Replacing the top board alone cured the fault (you were right, Dave, although it tested fine at EMW).

So I swapped the bottom board over, too, to see if the bottom one you sent was OK. It was. 🙂

I then had a spare WF340 board, which I’ve gone and fitted to another machine this morning, as luck would have it, which had a heater relay problem.

Job done! 😀

I’ll get round to checking the tactile switches on the other top board one day!!

[Pigpen4]

Re: candy cpca 240 fsk f/f

Pigpen4 wrote:What’s the difference between a Top Mount and a Combi Unit, please?

Anyone?

[Pigpen4]

Re: Hotpoint WF340PB lights flashing

The pair came back from EMW with no faults apparent.

The original board had signs of overheating in the heater circuit, although the heating element checks out fine, both resistance-wise and insulation-wise.

I replaced the heating element anyway, but could see no signs of any fault on the old element after I had removed it.

Put both boards back in and ….

…. fault still apparent! :bang:

She’s getting a new machine now, so I’ll be carting this one off to my back yard for further investigation when I get time.

[Pigpen4]

Re: Bosch SGS45A02GB/36 Leaking

That part number (341313) comes up as an auxiliary tool on both the Connect and MasterPart sites, although they haven’t got them in stock, so would be a special order. Have you tried getting one from either of them?

It sounds like a peg spanner to me, though, unless the lugs on it are arcs, which are profiled to sit snugly inside the grooves of the securing ring?

I don’t have one of these tools, but would also like to get hold of one.

Anyone got a picture of one, please?

[Pigpen4]

Re: candy cpca 240 fsk f/f

Thanks, Cras, that’s cleared up the ventilator part of my query.
Anyone willing to offer an explanation about the “top mount” bit?

(The instructions that come with the PCB state for the third configuration option: ALL TOP MOUNT AND COMBI UNITS, FITTED WITH THE VENTILATOR INSIDE THE REFRIGERATOR’S SECTION)

What’s the difference between a Top Mount and a Combi Unit, please?

[Pigpen4]

Re: candy cpca 240 fsk f/f

Thanks, Chris. Excellent advice.
It still ran when pcb set to off, so I replaced the pcb.

I have a question about the PCB configuration instructions, though – maybe it’s me being a bit thick, but …

As the pcb is at the top of the fridge freezer, does this count as a “top mount”, therefore I should remove jumper 1?
or
It’s 220Lt capacity and I couldn’t see any ventilation grille inside the fridge compartment, so is it classed as a “combi unit without refrigerator’s ventilator”, so I leave both jumpers in place?

What is this “ventilator” they’re talking about? Is it the evaporator? If so, then there’s one of those inside the fridge compartment, so I should remove jumper 1.

I’ve left both jumpers intact for the moment, as I believe it only affects the operating temperature range and I can always go back to break a tab off if I need to!

Please help my poor confused brain?! 😯
Thanks,
Pigpen.

[Pigpen4]

The overflow switch is working fine.
Any other ideas?

[Pigpen4]

Re: candy cpca 240 fsk f/f

I’m going to one of these on Wednesday morning, with the same fault – fridge freezing.
Any chance of a scary email too, please, Chris?
Thanks,
Pigpen.

[Pigpen4]

Re: HEUBSCH LWZ17AWB3069

Armstrongs, as mentioned above, are great for these spares – they emailed me back within 5 minutes, too. Now that’s good service!

Found a website for exploded views for spares at
http://www.dalex.ca/page.cfm?catid=71&i … 957A411EB4
if any of you need such info

[Pigpen4]

Re: HEUBSCH LWZ17AWB3069

I’m going to a Heubsch machine in the morning.
She doesn’t know the model number, but it’s a top loader and it’s big enough to get her quilts in!
It leaks and it doesn’t agitate.
Anyone got any tech info on any of these machines?
How much for a belt, drive bell and seal kit (as mentioned on this thread), etc?
Thanks,
Pigpen

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