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Some thoughts as a user:
Have a Neff machine so probably more or less the same and have never used the eco setting.
I saw a chart of energy and water use for the various cycles and auto can use less water and electriciity than eco – but obviously it depends on the load. I find if there’s not much in the dishwasher it shortens the wash too mcuh and runs cooler – tea cups still have stains on them etc. For light loads I use the 1hr/65C programme.
Odd that one programme time would stretch out. I will say that once dishwashers start playing up it’s usually time to look around for another one.
Machine has worked fine – used every day – since March but on Sunday morning got up to see the E25 error again. Everything was clean thankfully and it was empty of water so it looked like it had stopped at the very end of it’s cycle.
With the fliter assembly and impeller cover out, the pump runs fine, even if water is in the machine. Put the impeller cover back and a bit of water – pumps out fine. Impeller cover and a couple of litres of water and the pump squeals and does the spurty thing.
I wondered if the impeller could be catching on the impeller cover? I think that’s unlikely but I pushed on the impeller pretty hard and it (or the whole pump shaft) did seem to move and snap into position. Perhaps the shaft is moving under pumping load? It ran fine after that and has been OK (touch wood) through a few cycles.
Been here twice before though, so I’m not taking anything for granted.
I’ve never noticed it pumping then pausing in normal operation – if it’s doing that, it’s not obvious.
When it does the 3 spurts thing it’s pretty quick – it only pumps for a second or so. Thinking about it, I guess there’s something like 4 seconds between spurts. Once it’s done that it stops and nothing else happens although in testing if it stops it doesn’t immediately put the E25 error on – so that must take a while before it displays, maybe at the end of the cycle time?
I haven’t had the machine out at all as once it’s got over its little paddy it works fine. Does it pump out through the water chamber? I’d imagined the drain would be straight out. As mentioned earlier, when trying it into a bucket there’s a very good flow, so doesn’t seem like anything in the drain route could be obstructed.
I can’t get in there to take a pic but it’s part of moulding of the body of the sink drain, I guess to ensure the flow from the dishwasher is steered downwards.
I didn’t think it could be that, to be honest, but you never know. I was just surprised at the flow rate into a bucket.
Tempting fate here….it’s worked fine for the last week.
Question, please, if anyone is reading: How little restriction to flow on the drain would cause the E25 error?
I ask because I ran it draining into a bucket and was amazed at how high the flow rate was. It’s attached to a spigot under the sink and at first I assumed it might be one of those stepped ones, but it’s actually a full diameter spigot, however there’s a sort of baffle as it joins the sink drain and I’m wondering if that might be enough to create back-pressure to trigger the error?
With the filters and impeller cover removed the pump seems to run fine. Put them back and gradually added more hot (thinking I might flush something out) water from a jug until it happily drained with several jug fulls in the base. Then it completed two hour long cycles when empty of dishes. Put a few dishes in, does the initial drain, then wash, then goes back to the three spurts and cut out.
I almost wouldn’t mind if it would just pack up – it’s just annoying that it so very nearly works! And it seems very odd that it did this 6 mths ago, and only got going after a lot of messing, but since then has worked unfailingly again until now.
Thanks (I think!) for all that. It’s not the sink connection – it was exactly the same both times when trying the drain hose into a bucket. Just 3 spurts.
The impeller cover does snap back in with a good click. I’m sure I had it running last time without the cover in place – what does the sensor there sense?
I didn’t know about the one way valve. I’ll be dismayed if it’s blocked – we run it every day but often with little in it. Indeed last night there was a just a couple of well cleared plates and mugs, plastic chopping boards etc, nothing mucky at all.
One thing I have noticed is water inflow seems very slow – there no noise of water going in all. Is that normal? Mind you, if it gets past its initial drain on start-up it washes fine, then sometimes doesn’t drain out.
In case anyone finds this on a search…..no idea what the problem was, it was at daughter’s house and her solution was to buy a new (but different) fridge/freezer.
I did note that the RSH1 is subject to a recall type thing, but Samsung said it had been done on this 2008 machine in 2011, by the previous owners of the house. They offered 25{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} off a new one from Samsung’s online shop, and I noted machines there have a 5yr warranty. But Samsung fridge freezer have such a dodgy reliability record that she wanted to move away. There are multiple reports of people paying to get them fixed and then it failing again a couple of months later.
I was most relieved that the new one powered up OK – I had checked it on another circuit but once RCDs start tripping in a house things can get very random.
What stops it making ice once it’s full? Ours has the ice maker within the freezer and there’s an arm up to stop it making ice and it’s easy to nudge it up by accident.
Also, sorry, a bit beedin’ obvious, but just in case – is there an ice on/off button on the control panel?
Re: Bosch WFE2021 damper replacement
All done – thanks for advice.
Front came off really easily – there is a tag at top held by the bottom right drawer screw. Was a bit bemused that the opening was almost completely filled by the drum and a ring of concrete but the plinth releases easily with 6 screws and then it’s possible to get at the lower damper bolts
The lower left damper bolt was awkward with the motor in the way of my ratchet but it undid OK with spanner. I put the bolts back with a bit of thread-lock on.
Re: Bosch WFE2021 damper replacement
Thanks again – I’ve seen a YouTube video an non-integrated Bosch having the front removed and that had the tab there too.
I’ll get the dampers ordered off here and give it a go!
Re: Bosch WFE2021 damper replacement
Thanks Dave,
Appreciate I’ll have to release the door seal and lock catch. Beyond that I found two screws underneath the bottom edge of the front panel.
Is there any more to it than that? Videos for other machines show the switch panel being taken off but if it can be done without pulling the machine out then I guess you think that’s not needed – does the front panel just slot under the switch panel?
I was hoping the diagram would be one of those with dotted lines that show where everything goes!
Re: Bosch WFE2021 damper replacement
Thanks both.
electrofix: I’ve got a label with the enr: WFE2021GB /01 FD 8001 03010
I didn’t realise the front came off to be honest. I’ve searched but can’t find a manual (if such things exist) and nothing like it on YouTube. If it comes off, is it reasonably straightforward? I guess getting everything back is the tricky bit!
Re: Bosch rigid fill hose – using on washing machine?
No thoughts? Will the rigid hose survive the vibration from the washing machine?
Re: Motor lifetime – Bosch washing machine
Thanks – the commutator looked OK as best I could see and feel.
Have given the machine a few cycles and it seems OK – was initially somewhat alarmed by the noise it was making but realised that testing it without the door panel and plinth in place was making a big difference (as it’s an integrated machine)!
