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Just to add to this, the fan runs in conjunction with the compressor, if the fan does not run then a new one is needed, so will the index number from your unit will need to be supplied to identify the parts on that year of unit.
If the fan is running, then it is not faulty, heat marks are not uncommon.
Try taking the front grill off and checking that the air intake is not clogged up with fluff, it probably is and will need cleaning with a hoover, this will affect the unit in high ambient temperature.
Regards,
Tony.Like I have said before, there are 3 different inverters used on that model, so the index number found after the model number on your badge is needed.
Regards, Tony.Hi Pete, sorry to hear your unit is still malfunctioning, they are not that complicated a unit, there are only 4 sensors, 2 in the fridge, air sensor (red) turns unit off at temperature as selected on dial, evaporator sensor (green) which turns unit back on after fridge rear wall has defrosted, the evaporator sensor in freezer ( black) turns the fan on at -25c at coil temperature and ends the defrost phase around +5c, there is a dripping time after the defrost, the 4th sensor is an ambient sensor located on the board, this cannot be tested and you have already fitted a new board. I suspected the fridge evaporator sensor as this is the one that brings the compressor back on, I try and give as much help as I can via this forum, but it can never replace a visit and inspection by an Engineer.
Yes only the fridge can opt out of cooling if the compressor is running, when I talk about rear panel, I am talking about the inside of the freezer, not taking the fridge freezer out from the carcase, the only reason I ask to see if ice has built up, as this could be the problem, due to its design, that the fridge worked but not the freezer, if as you say the freezer fan is working, Sometimes the door being slightly open will not trigger the door alarm the fan will come on and this will cause excess frost to build up and stop good airflow around the freezer coil and increase the temperature. I can send you the service instructions by email.
That’s strange that it is now at temperature, your unit has one compressor and while running will provide freezing to the freezer compartment, it has a solenoid valve which diverts cooling to the fridge when required but also continues to the freezer for as long as the compressor is running, check that your fan in the freezer is working ( open door and quickly see if the blades are slowing down ) fan only runs with door closed and evaporator sensor at operation temperature.
It is possible the freezer coil is iced up, only by removing the rear panel can you confirm this, there is a service diagnostics for this unit but it is complicated and goes through several programs.I can not locate that model, can you confirm you have typed it correctly and include the index number and serial number, which will be of great help.
Yes higher number both sections get colder, there should be an even frosting over the back wall of the fridge, is this occurring and is the compressor running constantly ? if the compressor shuts off on its own at the highest number set ( coldest ) before a good layer of frost has formed ( to cool the fridge ) then it could be the stat, if no frost forms with compressor running, then its likely gas or compressor fault, if frost does form all across the back wall of fridge, again it could be the stat not restarting compressor after it cuts out for the fridge “off cycle ” defrost.
Sounds like the unit has lost some of its refrigerant or the compressor has become weak and not pumping the gas correctly, gas can leak out slowly and the first sign is an ice block build up on the rear wall in one spot, of course it could be the thermostat, but if it turns off just below 1, I assume you can hear the compressor which on a higher number would make the compressor run all the time as the stat recognizes the fridge is not cooling, if the compressor is shutting down early could be stat at fault.
If you have as you state mains to the inverter, then checking compressor windings will not indicate a good compressor, even if you have continuity between all 3 pins. There are three possibilities for the compressor not running, 1 no frequency signal from the control PCB, 2 inverter error and 3 compressor failure.
If you have tried to repair the PCB, that would probably be the first thing to replace with a new genuine part.There are 3 different inverters listed for that model, I will need the index number from the rating plate to identify which inverter you have on yours, there can also be a set of green lights that flash in the inverter which are fault code indicators.
Hi John, the single brown wire should be your live supply, twin browns are for light and heater if fitted, black is live supply to compressor with thermostat in on position, join the single brown to the black spades together and turn on mains the comp should start confirming stat failure, part number 6151803.
Looking at the evaporator photo, all looks normal, defrost heater is held in place by folded metal flaps, any news on the model and index ? sometimes there is a sticker also on the edges at the very back of the unit, it may only contain limited info, but I may be able to trace the model from anything you can get.
