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Re: hobart commercial d/w
Timer’s gone or cycle switch. The timer has been switched to a PCB now, not sure of the part number right now but will get back with it, or you could phone Hobart spares on 07002303303. Very easy to fit, just make sure you take your time and put the wires in the right positions. The old mechanical timer has got numbered poles, just match them to the poles on the PCB. Then you set the dip-switches to the right setting (all on the instruction leaflet) and the thing that catches most people out is the jumper from one of the terminals to one of the connections on the barrel switch. Again, can’t remember the exact positions, but there’s a sheet with all you need to know with the new timer. VERY EXPENSIVE!!! The cycle switch is the white button with a clock picture on it, two wires on the back, may be making a constant circuit?
The Hobart’s cycle is, turn barrel switch to ‘on’ position, wait for it to heat the rinse tank, then it’ll fill. When it’s full of water and heated, turn the switch to the plate setting for example, it’ll run through the wash cycle (and take in detergent), empty, fill with water again and then take in rinseaid and do a rinse cycle, then stop.Re: Classic Eco 2 Glasswasher. Mod EC02/MK2/DF
Seeing as they’re both not going in, I’d check to see if the machine isn’t sitting on the tubing, could be as simple as that. The detergent is pumped in using a peristaltic pump, any old oem type will do, the rinsaid is pumped in using a diaphragm pump which is either activated using the water pressure from the main wash motor or the mains water pressure from the rinse tank via some hose. Simple way to test the detergent pump is to check 240v. If the machine came with a factory fitted detergent pump and there isn’t 240v, one of the relays up top is probably faulty. Easy way to bypass that is to run the pump straight off the solenoid. If the pump was retro fitted it should already be off the solenoid, therefor pump is knackered. As for the rinse pump, could be a split or torn diaphram, the one way vavles in the pump itself may have stuck, the mains water pressure (if from the rinse tank) may be too low to push the diaphram. The pump itslef may have clogged up with debris, could be a number of things. If you need part numbers etc, let me know.
Re: Zanussi LS6EA Commercial dishwasher
There’s a company in Bridgend, South Wales that sell peristaltic pumps for around £25. Other parts are pricey with them, but they’re far cheaper than Seko etc. for pumps.
Re: Who’s worked on a Hobart D/W
You’ll probably get a PCB to replace the mechanical timer, just a case of matching numbers, the one thing that catches some people out is you need to add a wire to the selector switch which goes to one of the terminals on the PCB, it’s all in the instructions that are supplied, but some people rush at it. Basically, as long as you take your time it’ll be easy.
Re: cooker regs
There’s a company called Eurocatering Spares, and the phone number is 01616205959. Very good for gas spares.
Re: Who’s worked on a Hobart D/W
Just searched my phone for Hobart’s spares number, 07002 303303. Technical with them is hopeless though. I’m guessing this is in a hospital or government building as these machines are so expensive it’s normally bought off the Segg list.
Re: Who’s worked on a Hobart D/W
What do you need to know? You can get the spares direct from Hobart, they may even be cheaper than Caterparts, in my experiance they are. Don’t even need an account to get the spares. Don’t bother asking for a discount for trade, it just doesn’t happen, not even for local Health Authorities. What’s wrong with the machine?
Re: Hobart Commercial Dishwashers
I know this is too late to help, but may be a use to somebody else. A lot of people forget to fit the jumper from the selector switch to the PCB, and quite a few don’t set the dip switches to the correct settings. One thing to remember with most Hobarts, esp. the FX range is that they need to heat up the rinse tank before they’ll do anything. It won’t fill, wash, nothing until that rinse water is hot. So if the element is knackered, or the stat is staying closed the machine will do nothing, only that little light at the top, if it still works!!
Re: When you want a bus!
I had to wait 2 months for a Frymaster thermostat for one of their fryers in the DVLA, and they ended up sending the wrong part from the USA, ANOTHER 6 weeks later the right part arrived. Customer without 1 of their fryers and we look silly. Now that’s just not cricket.
Re: Bosch dishwasher SPS5462GB/19 not heating
So when it hits the right temperature it closes/ makes the circuit to advance the timer. Thing is, the cycle will finish without the dishwasher heating up at any part of the cycle. I’ll check the loom and microswitch tomorrow. My word, they don’t give you much room to play do they!!!
Re: Bosch dishwasher SPS5462GB/19 not heating
So that stat SHOULD show an open circuit when it’s cold? (wires off, no continuity between connections). Bugger, machines I’ve worked on have stats closed circuit and open when it’s up to temp. Got caught out tonight.
Re: Bosch dishwasher SPS5462GB/19 not heating
Sorry, thought because so many people had seen the other thread, and I waffled on a bit people would bypass it!! So, the stat that clips into the top of the plastic housing the element is a normal stat, is there an overheat stat? I’m assuming seeing as it was open circuit when it was all off (and cold) it’s faulty, or does it make a circuit when it’s up to temp to advance the timer?
Re: Bosch dishwasher SPS5462GB/19 not heating
The wires are fine there. I’d just like to know if the black, roundish stat is an overheat cut-off, or a normal temperature stat, with one side doing 50C and the other side doing 60C. Would also like to know what that other piece is, think it may be a one-shot overheat stat. Again, help would be welcomed.
