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Re: Bosch Logixx 8 E57 error
Hi
Well I had a look on ye I/net and found someone who appears to have come a cropper as per yourself.
His problem just the same similar non brush motor i.e. an inverter type brushless motor as per your model. With the back removed on the right there is a pcboard which is the motor control board. Seems that that might have blown, it has on this other chaps, so power off and have a look. If you can see that it has blown you now have to find out why ( there might not be a why it might have gone because, well it went pop! ) otherwise things get even more expensive and there lies the problem. On the limited experience I have on this modern c21st stuff it is doubtful it`ll be the motor that caused it, could`ve been the original door lock shorting out …..difficult to say. If you have a test meter I`d check the element too because I have come across the elements going pop on the internal fuse because the relay triggers the element to come on ON SPIN so with no water in the machine whilst you`ve got the back off. If I can up with any other info I`ll post it here but info very poorly available. You might also want to have a look at the instrument pcb too just in case that has gone pop.
I have grave reservations on the quality of Bosch washing machines of the last 10 years. Their dishwashers are even worse, terrible contraptions. Just my opinion.Re: Clothes wet on drying cycle Bosch WVT1260GB washer dryer
Hi. Presume, as you said, your using all new second hand pcb`s i.e. the mall clip on pcb is NOT the original one:
The small clip on pcb controls the tumble drying functions in conjunction with the larger/main pcb. I cannot answer the basic question as to whether the pump should be on all the time OR is cycled on x seconds and then off y seconds but what I have come across is that your recently new pump MIGHT be breaking down over the drying time i.e. goes dead = h2o in drum. Was this pump a cheap copy because even though it physically fits it maybe unsuitable for use with a washer dryer but ok for use with a washing maching version as the windings over load, if fitted, gets too hot due to the several hours running time and triggers = no go for pump until it cools down which given the pump would be very hot to touch could take ages to cool so if it does stop pumping by timing things pause the machine for 3 hours then restart, if the pump then works I would think it `ll be the pump.
Whether of course this is a consquence of a fault with either board is unknown though I`d think that if all the boards are “new” the likey hood of having exactly the same problem is pretty remote. As far as known no other components would be responsible for the fault you have.Re: AEG Lavamat 64810 washing machine
Thanks for the model number but to identify this machine it is based on the pnc or product number beginning with 914. So basing this as a 914524150/00 ( a guess out of 12 other versions! ) I would check the motor brushes before doing anything else A great many of these machines are wired through the motor so if there is a fault e.g. worn out brushes the contraption won`t start.To add to the fun and games there might be 2 types ( could be more ) for 3 differing motors 1) ceset motor and 2) the more common Sole or look a like sole motor: both the ceset and sole brushes look entirely different from each other so that`ll help you but there are 2 sole type brushes 1) tag comes out from the top of the brush ( most commonly seen part 4006020152 or alternatives from w/pool/ hotpoint ) and 2) one that comes out from the side part 50265481007. Typically.via AEG site the motor brushes will not be listed as a spare part because of the confusion over motors. Go on to this website`s spares dept and track them down via pictures or if in doubt with the info gleaned from the motor ask them or post a picture to them!
Re: Help with Siemens control panel fault
Could well be control panel pcb part number 00432218 ( old part number was 00268118 ) but it isn`t 150 quid as listed on Siemens website at £232.63, Ouch!!
Before anyone buys anything get the heater ( part number 0026596 ) meggered for earth leakage which back feeds to pcb and can mess it up even though the machine will still heat and the trip won`t trip and then check the motor. Check the motor brushes of which there are two possible types fitted 1) the most common 0015474 under 30 quid or the pattern eqv around 12 quid OR 2) t`other type in white plastic holders 00173028 R type brushes about 48 quid. You might want to check the inlet valve solenoids too… I most certainly would as there are a couple of rare faults they can develop: solenoid electric coil/s sometimes fail, internal plunger sticks sometimes, and even rarer the coil melts and bulges out the plastic coil where it over heats.Check pump wires too.
If that all checks out then suspect the pcboard.You could always get the pcb sent away to get checked out ( QER in Cumbria ) but it`s an off beat fault and might be difficult to pin down; take note.Re: Bosch wff2001
Probably a silly question but do I have to turn off the water supply? Would this be the valve under the kitchen sink just?
Yes turn it off otherwise you`ll end up somewhat hot and moist when unscrewing the the inlet pipe off the valve!The best way to go about this is to follow what has already been suggested i.e. clean the valve`s filter and any others that might be at the ends of the inlet pipe. Turn on the hot inlet pipe`s tap with the machine end in a bucket to prove that 1) there is a reasonable amount of water flow 2) any half hearted dripple and there`s your answer so not the machine it`s your plumbing. If all is well put the machine back to normal/reconnect the hose then to test: turn the hot tap back on and make sure the cold is on too, set t/stat to 70 set on cottons start the machine- you are trying to prove that hot water is now coming through the valve into the soap dispenser if indeed it does then that proves that and the machine should be now ok. If the original fault still is not cured it`ll most likely be the heating element that has failed OR the actual hot valve has just simply failed- the hot genuine valve is no doubt some stupid ridiculous price but you might be able to use an alternative valve in its place. If you have to call someone out the chances of it being a programmer fault is almost zilch so do not get taken on that one. If this machine is in otherwise good nick for heavens sake hang on to it, do not scrap it. New Bosch models are not as good / as well made by at least a thousand miles!
Re: Guidance on premature failure of replacement bearings
Best grease to use is white marine bearing propellor shaft grease which is what I use. The drum shaft looks fine via picture. Points to look out for one of which is sureal: 1) that there are no hair line cracks in the rear plastic half tank around the bearing tube and that the bearing tub has no hair line cracks both unlikely, 2) that the oil seal is the correct one, 3) I can tell from the picture you did not thrash the failing bearings into shrapnel mode so good on you, but I have come across the hub- the bit you mention with the small wear grooves, which is normal- where h2o gets under between the hub and the sharf and I have come across where the hub is warped from manufacture causing water entering between it and the seal running grooves, imagine a buckled bicycle wheel. It should not be the actual bearings that fail it is water getting in to them making them fail. Check as mentioned all 3 spider arms for fracture which is not likely at that age.
Re: zanussi zdc37200w
Hi Seamy. 20 red flashes then a beep beep then repeat. Actually I`ve sussed the piece of electronic 21st Century tosh by watching youtube video as to how to get into diagnostics which I ponced about with and somehow got the stupid contraption back to being ok. Tested on synthetics for 30 mins and all was well. Not too sure what the hell happened there and I don`t really care either other than it now works. In case anyone else gets stuffed with one of these things: I turned selector knob 1 click to the right from off position then held start and the nearest button to it at the same time. Then moved s/knob another click, then another click then gave up `cause I forgot what the thing was supposed to do (!) and clicked s/knob back to off then on then off then on to 40 mins to try. Then tested as above! God I hate this kind of stuff! Thanks for replying.
Re: zanussi zdc37200w
Damn it, forgot! Will have to go back and have another look this afternoon if I can.
Re: SW1010B
SW1010B Same as a chinese Haier I think and I think it is the same as a Hns1260tve (but could be wrong) and if so Error code 4 is a heating element fault so your machine should be doing everything else other than heating.
Re: Lavamat 12700 VI Turbo drying timer counts too fast
Old post but you may still have the machine.
Seems odd to me too but having a guess I think the fault might lie with the tumble dryer element…..which sounds somewhat crazy but maybe not so! Think element has gone to earth but not enough to take out any house trip. As element gets hotter the more earth leakage you can get and if the earth fault backfeeds to the main pcb it will temporarily cause all sorts of problems such as skipping programmes and maybe time count down. Usually I find that you can get the fault happening on the wash and rinse programmes of all things rather than on t/dry but there are variations as to how elements can fail or rather the degree to how much they fail and how the appliance is wired. I once even had an element fail in such a way that it became a weak battery, weird!Re: Samsung Ecobubble WF80F5E2w4w
Had a look for you both on Partmaster and your model is listed; that`s good!
Ok, well I`m guessing, by the picture of the motor on Partmaster, that it is a brush motor, and I`m also guessing that the brushes or one brush has worn out- your best bet is to take off the motor and check both brushes because I have had 1 brush wear out twice as fast as t`other! There are no motor brushes listed as seperate parts ( typical! ) BUT I do kinda recognise that they are fitted with ce set style motor brushes and if they are be careful because some carbon ends are to the left and some point to the right so if worn out try to get a good picture of what your buying. I myself wouldn`t worry too much about brush hardness your just trying to get the thing to work ok. There appear to be two versions to this machine 1 ending in EU ( which is the one I`m on about and t`other ends in LP of which there was no picture on P/master so I`m guessing that is a brush motor too or could be not a UK model???
The logic behind my thinking is that most modern machines wire the whole or in part circuit through the motor, if the brushes are worn out you might just get it to work for a few turns on the brush dust before it all goes t*ts up.Re: Oneconcept DB005 XXl spinner not working
How did you get on with this offending twin tub? Sussed it yet?
Re: AEG dishwasher only heating a little
Well your post was awhile ago but I have to say that I had the same problem on an Aeg d/washer about the same age as yours though a different model. Traced it down to a pcb relay which another one was duly robbed off a defunct board and resoldered in its place- exact same rated relay not just any old one, and has worked for 3 weeks so far so good curing the offending machine. So if it all goes bad again look to that cure. If you are lucky, and I wasn`t maybe the relay soldering is bad, it`ll look bad so it`ll be obvious.
Re: Hotpoint WDD960 F15 Again
Tricky one!
Ok so this w/dryer based on a WDD960GUK.C, because you didn`t give the full model number, is one of those induction motored 3 phase things. By tripping I presume you mean trips the house electrics or do you mean just trips the programme to fault 15? Terminology!
From what you say I`d first be looking at the heater. What you really need is a megger tester to test the elements to earth but you can at least test for resistance, in other words the wash element and tumble dyer element is not open circuit with an ordinary multimeter set on high Ohms.I know this all looks rather odd considering your 15 fault code ( and take most fault codes with a pinch of salt ) but the wash element might well be the problem- you can buy a cheaper pattern one to try.
Without sticking the old neck out, if it is not the wash heater no spin or skipping the cycle without it being a motor brush motor is usually the pcboard or wash element to slight earth. Beware; the pcb has to be programmed by Hotpoint on site = expensive / robbery. Might be a good idea to buy a multimeter or if you don`t want to do that buy a new wash element and see if it cures the machine`s problem.
