1totalshambles

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Viewing 15 posts - 166 through 180 (of 289 total)
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  • in reply to: miele novotronic w 807 #446596
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: miele novotronic w 807

    Wash element gone open circuit i.e. a duffy element? If proved to be that there is a pattern element from memory that is available rather than the robbery priced Miele genuine one. At 20 years old tread very carefully as the bearings or / and the bearing spider maybe(?) only months away from failure / the machine is on borrowed time as happened to one of my customers who fitted an over priced 50 quid genuine belt ( most belts are less than 15 quid for most other brands ).

    in reply to: Bluesky BLF 1009/1 Error #446520
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Bluesky BLF 1009/1 Error

    Probably motor brushes worn out at same time as original fault.
    And/or remove pressure switch pipe off pressure switch end and blow down pipe and don`t forget to refit it otherwise the machine will flood. Any resistance whilst blowing down the pipe = part or full blockage either of water, `cause you had the machine on its side, or general age related rubbish in the air trap.

    in reply to: Philips ADP 136/7 not heating #446021
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Philips ADP 136/7 not heating

    What follows is from memory and is in general terms regarding old Philips dishwashers.

    No heat based on an old 1990`s Philips dishwasher with an electro mechanical timer.

    Common faults were broken wires in the door`s loom – very common when these get old. Cut away, with the power off of course, all the sheathing that cover the wires in the area that would bend when the door is opened and closed over the years so take off the front panel. You`ll probably have to remove the metal plate which sandwiches the wiring loom to get a proper look see. The thickest wires break first = heater wires and the live and neutral to and from the on off swith part of the timer are always the most suspect. If so make new lengths of wire by using a the wire from a 13amp washing machine cable cut to length at about a foot long should do the trick and for godsake do one wire at the time, brown, then blue, brown ect and replace all the wires in that loom using decent connectors- 13 amp connector block strips is the easiest way then flatten out the new loom and use gaffer tape to stop chaffing. Very important as mentioned to use decent amperage connector blocks and I used to solder the ends of the wires before screwing them down tight.

    The heater`s over load on the top of the heater tube ( if fitted ), more or less on the left hand side underneath, clicks out = no heat. click it back down, then run a decsaler through it with all fingers crossed

    The heater tube itself has gone open circuit? And probably obsolete?

    One or two series were fitted with a heating relay but that part usually gave little trouble – flat, square, usually grey colour with about 6 wires.

    The 60 degree stat which was, I think, attached to a metal plate attached to a short stubby hose near the heater.

    That is about it!!!

    in reply to: LG Direct Drive – IE Error Code #444208
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: LG Direct Drive – IE Error Code

    Sonds like the machine is over filling then this is sensed by the pressure switch and aborts the programme-pumps out in other words. The pressure switch should be on the right hand side area at the top of the machine and has a thinnish black hose pushed on to it, there is about a 3 or 4 wire plug connector to it.
    What might be happening: there is a part blockage in the air trap causing the machine to over fill or a pin prick hole just under where the pipe pushes onto the pressure switch small nozzle. What you want to do is to empty the machine fully, turn power off, remove work top lid, pull off the p/switch hose and blow down it- any restriction that might be there then was your restriction and most likely cause. At the same time check the black p/swt hose very carefully for any small split. If you can`t blow down the p/swt hose, because it is well and truly blocked up, you`ll have to take the front of the machine off because most if not all LG`S have a wretched base fitted (! typical ) so getting at the sump hose branch-the actual air trap- itself is impossible. If you do this and the machine now works ok run a descaler through the machine afterwards at 60/80 degrees.If you blow into the actual p/switch don`t expect to hear a click/s, they`re not like normal p/switches of old.

    in reply to: Oneconcept DB005 XXl spinner not working #446051
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Oneconcept DB005 XXl spinner not working

    Never been to one of these, and I expect none else on the site has either, so everything that follows is pure guess work.
    Ok, so the lid swt works, the spin timer ticks. The only things I can think off as pointers are 1) there`s a broken wire 2) the spin motor is zapped 3) if it is capacitor run-cylinder shaped thing with electrical wires attached that go to the motor or 4) even though the timer seems to work 5 mins to stop internally it is broken. If (1) with the spin mounts dodgy it is a pretty good indication that maybe it is a broken wire perhaps internally within the motor or near the motor. If (3) I would`ve thought you would hear the motor hum and it get warm since it does nothing else which at least means it is getting power; a lot of Chinese capacitors are fairly poor/short lived, Qualtex chinese imported capacitors are an example.
    Best I can do I`m afraid but I did have a brief scout about on the net for any spares but found none, zippo! as expected. If it is the capacitor ( if indeed it has one? ) you should be able to get one from this esteemed site that should be better quality, probably something like a 8uf but that is purely a guess, but your original one will have the uf printed on it. Remember that capacitors do store an electrical charge even after you`ve unplugged the machine providing of course it is receiving power itself. Do not do live testing unless you know what your doing, I haven`t lost one yet!! Let us know how you get on as it would be a shame to scrap it…..yet more plastic waste in the environment. Best of luck.

    in reply to: Samsung Eco Bubble Drain Pump #445688
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Samsung Eco Bubble Drain Pump

    Not for sure! But,The Partmaster double motored pump unit; 1x for drain and 1x for recirculating the water I presume, is part number 3679168pm at £76.09 plus pp for your machine.
    To answer your question: You could just change the motors and use the existing pump body so IF the live and neutral tags on each individual motor point at the front of the motor, as I suspect they will, you could use a universal Askoll pump part number pmp263 ( which fit the very much lookalike LG ) at 25 watts and 2 of these should do the trick. IF the tags are at the back of the motor, which is possible ? you could use either 2 Hotpoint c00144997 or 2 pmp214`s both at 40 watts or 2 pmp243`s which have thermal over loads at 35watts each. I cannot tell you which ones it will be other than it should work out one hell of a lot cheaper than 76 quid.
    If you are the slightest worried about doing this, or if the existing pump body is damaged buy the proper one as above, as far as I know it`ll be your only option as a complete pattern pump is not known at least to me. It is very common in this trade to just fit new pump motors to existing pump housings to keep the costs down for one and all.

    in reply to: Samsung washing machine 3e fault code #445505
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Samsung washing machine 3e fault code

    Read around post purchase reviews on this contraption, appears to be either the motor but much more common is the repeating failure of the module….wonderful! This model seems to get a hammering on owners reviews. Think I`ll get out of the repair on this one can see myself losing my shirt in 6 months time, what as long as that!.

    in reply to: WME7247S beko motor fault #438651
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: WME7247S beko motor fault

    I admire your determination. Thanks for the up date after the 1st time you fixed your machine back in June last year. Let us know the outcome of this lastest disaster.

    in reply to: Tecnik Washer/Dryer TKL9909 #444667
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Tecnik Washer/Dryer TKL9909

    Information on the net is really sparse as are any spares listed.
    A guess! If you know the start of a wash programme is correct and the machine gives up and does nothing after pumping out the wash water, so you are now on the 1st rinse, one part of the inlet valves looks like it has failed OR to confuse things more if this is a hot and cold fill machine? it might be filling with hot water only where it should be filling with both and the cold is tap is turned off so no fill at rinse stage.
    Sorry I thought I`d have a crack at this since noone else has but that`s probably because they, like me, can`t find any or little info on this machine.
    If you can post a picture of the programmer knob and any decals that surround it and where you are setting the programme I might come up with a suggestion.

    in reply to: Miele W1742 – Drain fault #445068
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Miele W1742 – Drain fault

    We disconnected it from the plumbed waste and then ran it again – but this time with the drain hose in a bucket. This allowed the program to run with no problem.

    Well there you go you know where to look! Looks like either a sealed up under the sink waste hose nozzle, by grudd or by a blue blanking off insert if never been used before, or someone has not cut off the end of the nozzle because you`ve just moved in to your new pad if plumbed out that way and I suspect it is because you use the word ” disconnect “or if down a stand pipe it wouldn`t make sense, other than:
    Air locks-they can happen especially if the pump filter was removed for cleaning though usually what happens is the pump pumps for 30 secs not pumping out anything but purging air and then it pumps out just fine OR you might have to pause that cycle count to 20 then restart and then it`ll pump out and be ok after that.

    in reply to: LG F1222TD has started vibrating wildly #444916
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: LG F1222TD has started vibrating wildly

    Hi. Can`t be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure it is the right LG service manual but looks believable, I don`t make a habit of using manuals myself except fault codes and even then I`m secptical to take those at face value, so maybe you can change the suspension from the rear ……I have my doubts to be honest despite whatever the service manual points to, I`m sure I tried it once on the first one I got lumbered with, gave up, and attacked the Korean blighter with the front panel removed and all was well.
    Since the machine has a plastic base I think your also going to struggle to physically get at the suspension from the rear at least with the upper dowel. Big tank, smallish back, wretched base = not alot of room but try it and let me know if you can remove the potential offenders and if you can do that then you can replace them! What I do on reassembly is use a bit of grease or washing up liquid on the new dowel and run a bit around the suspension dowel holes to make it all easier as the dowel is tapped through the locating tank holes.

    in reply to: LG F1222TD has started vibrating wildly #444914
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: LG F1222TD has started vibrating wildly

    Answered only in general terms. LG vibration on spin with no jack hammer knocking noises and that the drum bearings are not the issue and that the front panel hasn`t loose screws. Most likely your suspension has worn out as it is fairly common, remove the rear cover to have a good look, your looking for residue of the damping felt on the susp leg and on the chassis X beam. If you remove the lid and push down on the tank and go side to side movement on the tank and the whole show shows very little reistance it`ll be a good sign your susp legs have had it. replace as a set not just the one that is zapped. Also note that if looking from the rear if the chrome coloured lower metal part of the leg on the right hand side shows sign of rust you have a small leak and that is usually because there is a wear hole in the dispenser to tank pipe-also fairly common too.
    I`ve never been able to replace the suspension legs ( and to be honest it has been a while! ) other than by removing the front panel though it is fairly easy to do from memory but watch the plinth screws and a hidden screw near the filter and although it should not be necessary I always mark the pcb fascia wire terminal blocks just to be on the safe side; the fascia panel other than the dispenser screws is held on by 3 screws along the top.Suspension leg x1 part number lge383eer3001f should be able to buy a pair for less than 20 quid. To get the white plastic `dowels` that go through each susp legs, 1 at the top 1 at the bottom use either a 13mm or might be a 12mm ring spanner to release the locking tangs and then gently prise using a pair of angled pliers as a lever to pull them out, use an open ended 17mm or 19mm spanner to gain more leverage placed under the pliers as you go. Best of luck and er….don`t forget to pull out the mains plug 1st please!

    in reply to: AEG L74620 not filling #444801
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: AEG L74620 not filling

    UPDATE 30/1/2017
    Yes, a new replacement dispenser top cured the problem of no fill. All up and running now.
    Thx for help.

    in reply to: AEG L74620 not filling #444800
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: AEG L74620 not filling

    Hi Dave, cheers! Yes sounds as you describe, so the motor`s gears have snuffed it / presume switch cam in there somewhere too hence no neutral = no fill. Well I`ll have a word with the owner and see what he wants to do. Good to hear from you.

    in reply to: Miele w1613 Washing Machine loud noise on spin #444633
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: Miele w1613 Washing Machine loud noise on spin

    2) test for the internal drum spider arm has broken? How do you even do that?

    Hi Robert. Suspect from what you say this is the problem but it is only a guessand that you have a rotted out spider and so its cracked. This does not always prove that fault: grab the drum with one of the paddles lined up at 6o/clock position ( because the paddles line up with the spider arms ) and put both hands on the drum just behind the door seal seal and woggle the drum up and down any obvious movement compared with the other 2 positions will tell you all is not well. However to be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure redismantle the complete machine to remove the drum…..not for the faint hearted and have a look, the price of the drum complete is equal to 10 boxes worth of Kleenex tissues in tears = £425!

Viewing 15 posts - 166 through 180 (of 289 total)