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“Do you have any recommendations for machines that are more servicable and better made than the hotpoint/indesit rubbish?” No! Because in my humble opinion they all have their weak spots whether they be £200 or £2000. But here is a list of known makes that you can at least take the horrid contraptions to pieces to replace bearings and the oil seal WHICH ALLOWS YOU A FIGHTING CHANCE IF NOTHING ELSE if you catch the blighters before they get thrashed before they get trashed: Samsung, Haier, Lg, Ebac apparently….and made in England which is a rarity.The more expensive Miele models as opposed to some of the entry level Miele though the parts ain`t anywhere near reasonable should it come a cropper. All the Turkish made Vestel stuff such as most of the Bush machines ( which have their own vices ditto for 1 or 2 that are Chinese Bush made models ) 1 or 2 Bosch models but cannot remember the model series WAN?. Curry`s Logik. BEWARE that officially even if a tank can be dismantled the bearing can only be got by buying a new rear half tank e.g. Samsung and Vestel efforts and Logiks and also note that although the bearings are the usual sizes used the oil seals can be custom sizes that might not be off the shelf.
Makes with sealed tanks: Hoover, Candy, Hotpoint, Indesit ( as you know ), Zanussi, AEG, Electrolux, pretty well all the Bosch, Some cheaper (!) Miele. Zenith aka a Beko, Beko, ( Grundig, Blomberg, some Smeg these are really Beko machines )
Things may change via Right to repair BUT do not expect those parts to be cheap because the ruling has no sway on the cost of parts one jot.Reading this gives me the impression that you have a duff pump rather than a duff p/swt ( pressure switch ). I have had it on Haiers before where the pumps sometimes work and sometimes do not – all very frustating, all very Chinese! What is the FULL model number please? That p/swt should only have 1 definite click up and obviously out so doubt it`ll be that, it seldom is. Also noticed leakage stain via heater which has made motor shield rusty underneath = maybe you should check the motor tags for damage… does the motor actually turn the drum pulley, does the machine spin when empty of water? Also if the motor wires are in fact ok BUT when empty of water the machine does not spin beaware that the motor brushes wear very unevenly, you can get 1 brush with 1/2″ left whilst t`other one is worn out or in its deaththrows. Just some pointers to ponder.
What is the part number of your new part as written on the packaging the element was in? I mean the only daft thing, and do not take offence, is if you misfitted the earth wire and fitted it to one of the heater terminals instead! T`ith not unknown!
Other than that I`m at a loss. I do and have had loads of heater problems on Hoovers and Candy machines that flash up E03, changing the heater always, least to date, cures the problem so long as the pump / pumping out is itself is ok which it seems to be. I have never had an actual pcb cause earthing problems either. I have had motor armature fail twice on these machines though which would take out the trip but then you say with the heater disconnected it pumps out and spins…..so it will not be that.Hair line crack in a spider arm near the center hub? Or crack in plastic tank surrounding bearing tube?
Yes. Usually it is an earth fault with the heater if the pump out is ok so that deduction is correct. So you replaced the element and you still have a problem but then you say if you disconnect the heater wires off your newly fitted element you do not get the problem……well I presume you have a duff new element otherwise that does not make sense??
Motor brushes worn out too perhaps, Motor`s armature to earth, two faults running in parallel?Well I was going to say check the motor brushes but I checked for you and it seems your model has a brushless 3 phase motor fitted but if I was you i`d have a visual check just in case. If you do have a brushless motor: because your fault does seem to be very odd, so how I understand you it will not spin or pump out with clothes or does it actually pump out but will not spin TAKING into account wet clothes draining down and thus leaving water in the machine because it will not spin although it did actually drain. So if it you try the machine soley on a Spin programme only with wet clothes see if the machines screws up? If so I think it will be the lineear pressure switch messing about or maybe the main pcb, more likely to be the linear pressure switch ( p/swt ) playing about which is fairly well known because….. these things as you know control the water level BUT they also control the machines ability to spin plus what complicates things is they can sense there is no water in the machine and do not turn the pump on. The pressure switch is listed as a J00192066 which is Hotpoints parts website number NOT the true part number which should be c00289362 about 25 quid from Hotpoint or about 18 quid off ebay or an alternative one from qualtex part X reference quawmp11 (12 to 14 quid). Do NOT blow up into the new pressure switch as that will ruin its settings. You could also visually check the p/swts thin hose for any rubbed pin prick holes and remove this hose off the present p/swt and blow down the hose it into the machine to test for part blockages before you buy anything – don`t forgot to re attach this hose!!! If all else fails as your pump, as you say seems ok, then you might be looking a non consumer replacable pcb at horrendous great expense – these damn things are programmable only onsite by Hotpoint. Go try a new p/swt.
” I was wondering what white goods are somewhat easy to repair? And are certain brands better than others in terms of repairability? Are certain appliances easier to repair than others? “
A big subject this with lots of pros and cons.
The easiest machines to PHYSICALLY repair I find are Vestel washing machines, so the Pro Action, Royale, Montpelliers and about 20 other brand names that are made by Vestel but as you see are sold under a variety of trade names. The problem is these machines tend to be scarce, the parts can be scarce, and they tend to be cheaper machines and so are destined to end up not being repaired least in the area I live ( Reading ). So they maybe the easiest to repair but you just might not be repairing many or any. PLUS the disadvantage of most spares tend to be farmed out and sold through Partmaster where you will, or could be hammered on prices and availability.
Bosch washing machines entry level to medium level machines are fairly easy to repair too. Spares a-plenty too, Bosch spares website the best using the proper part numbers so you can easily X ref top the likes of e-bay to compare prices – lots of alternative parts with lower prices too such as motor brushes and door seals which are good quality alternatives. A lot of Bosch spares pricing does not make much sense..
Not much point stocking up with Indesit / Hotpoint / Hoover / candy parts as these machines are under a 10 year parts warranty and have been so for the last 5 years or so but thety are fairly easy to work on. But there again I go to them none the less for small jobs such as motor brushes because the cost of the parts and my labour charge is about half the cost of their labour charge irrespective of the punter getting the freebee parts from them so a brush change from me is 55 quid as opposed to around 115 from them.
Miele, Smeg ( older models ) modern AEG for examples are no place to start for the beginner – for example you diagnose wrong on a Miele where parts are very expensive and you can drop yourself in it big time and can easily wipe yourself out. So do not go there, I don`t, and I`ve been in the repair business for 37 years.
Keep away from dishwashers especially Bosch Neff and Siemens ( and Hotpoints, Indesits and some Zanussis ); repeat problems with the very common heat pump failure, then as typically happens after 3 months ( or under 3 minutes ) the part fails yet again. I gave up 35{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of my business due to this stuff about 3 years ago as just not worth the grief and none of them are particularily easy to work on too. May have been designed by too many people doing a corporate group hug whilst under the influence via the pub?
Beko are usually easy to work on and are by far more common than Vestel stuff. Parts do not cost a lot, are very commonly available and once again stick with the entry level machines to mid range – a good place to start.
To sum up. You get cheap machines with scarce and expensive parts, expensive machines with expensive parts – no surprises there! And cheaper machines like Beko with most things going for them as a good starting point.
Just a brief touch on the subject for you.“Hopefully the tub seal won’t show any signs of failure. I`d get the thing in bits first before buying anything”. You could always try a silicon sealant on the old tank seal if it is not that bad or get the tank seal I suggested but If the damage was done 1st time round to the spider shaft and you did not notice or you cleaned the muck off the hub ring with fine sandpaper ( a disasterous thing to do ) you, like I said, could well be in the clagg even sooner than 2 years this time around unless, if so required, you can get a new spider which might, I haven`t checked, be obsolete or too pricey. Other things to look for is the corrosion of the spider in general – Samsung are not famed for using a good alloy ( and they are not alone on that one!! ). As far as grease goes most folks use a silicon based grease for oil seals which you can get a tube for not a lot off e-bay. I used white marine grease and never had a problem with that – if it is good enough for a destroyer propellor shafts in salt water it is good enough for a washing machine. Ordinary car grease is not a good idea. Also check the bearing tube and the surrounding plastic fantastic tank area for hair line cracks too.
Best of luck with the thing. I hope you get the machine going.Hmm. I disagree. I personally think the bottom shocks are going, the machine is the right age for this to happen too and it should not be moving as much. The tank breather pipe is being pulled which is not good either as the plastic tank has or will wear the rubber away where the hose fits into the tank = hence leak. I think you would need 2 shocks and a new breather pipe. Shocks are sold a singles part number 3794303010 at 24 quid each ( so you`ll need 2, they are both the same ) and the steam vent hose ( that I call the breather pipe ) is part 1322899004 @ 10 quid all parts quoted off Zanussi spares website and based on your model number as product code 91451723100 – check your label. You might get them cheaper elsewhere, maybe check the prices on uk whitegoods spare site, frankly at 4.20 am I haven`t. What I can tell you is that the shocks are 22 quid plus vat each off the so called trade site called Qualtex and so are more expensive than buying from Zanussi direct! Who says that this trade does not make sense?
Only thing I can suggest is to try tank seal DC6901154A. It MIGHT be long enough ( there are no known lengths recorded )/ you might have to cut it because from memory the original tank seal ends pokes out the top of the tank. The question really is how come the bearings are on their way out so soon? What went wrong there? Was the shaft and oil seal hub damaged by the previous failing bearing because if so you will only be back to square one soon again. Though I grant you 2 bearings and an oil seal is not costing much if you get another 2 years use out of the thing. As Dave suggests check everything else first that way you can make a costing apprasial before going to the hassle of a bearing change.
As a general note. Samsung, of which I am not a fan, do have this infamous habit of making spares obsolete on a whim. Actually you can say the same for most if not all the Chinese / Korean made stuff. The worst thing about it is they could not give a toss whether someone splashed out 200 quid ( 1 box of tissues to cry into ) or £700 ( 5 boxes!! ) for their pride and joy. I very much doubt Right to Repair ruling will change anything with these boys one jot.You might have a wad of rotting smelly cloth caught around the wash heater*** and especially its bracket, it will not take a lot to get caught there to create a smell. Your machine is basically a Hotpoint sold as a Whirlpool ( same company but not always the same machines ), Hotpoints are infamous for stuff disappearing between the front of the drum / back of the door seal in my experience. You were on the right track because usually its rotting lint in the condenser, alas not on your machine it seems.Failing everything you or someone else has checked, if there is nothing caught up anywhere it could be “stuff” caught under the bearing spider arms in which case you have probably had it `cause the tank cannot be dismantled from memory. **** very often upon removing the element ( which can sometimes be a bugger to get out ) you might find nothing! And you might find that the heater might not be able to be re-fitted no mater how much washing-up liquid used on its rubber boss….so a new heater for no gain, so a word of warning there..
