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Nope! I couldn`t find much info too! Gave up but removed impellor belt from its pulley and the machine now kinda works with the impellor deactivated.
Central S.England: mostly 50+ feet of clay on top of chalk and flint but the whole area is quite variable in thickness of the clay, where I live the water is very chalky = hard. Was lucky 12 years ago when I got an invite from Reading University Cavers, via a mate of mine, a chance to go down a disused chalk mine via an air vent just outside Reading; a ladder, hard hat and rope job!. A large network of cavens ( called Galleries ). Very interesting place dating back to early C18th ( but probably goes back way before that ) mined mostly for the brick and tile industry for the nearby kilns and for farming to improve the soil as lime. The Nettlebed kilns, about 9 miles up the road go back to the C12th or C13th and provided the materials for the building and improved defence extensions of Wallingford Castle, Empress Matilda and all that. The water is hard in Nettlebed area!
Sounds more like one half of the solenoid valve has failed to me. So you would have one valve but 2 solenoids…is that right? What might be happening is the valve fills then switches over to other solenoid to continue the filling process but that solenoid does not open ( work ) to let the machine reach the correct level to be sensed by the pressure switch to advance to turn on the heater. So you want to check both solenoid for resistance if you have a multimeter set it to 2000k and your reading should be around 004 for each coil ( based on uk 220/240 mains voltage ). Blomberg / Beko ( its really a Beko ) valves commonly fail either by the solenoid coils going open circuit OR they do not go open circuit they just do not open for another reason say, mechanically failed.
“if your sure the water is on and the fill pipe is not kinked then you need a solenoid” OR more likely the actual soap dispenser jet/s are lime blocked up.Easy to tell without ripping the soap to bits : remove each valve to soap rubber hoses off the valve end ( you`ll need pliers ) stick that end in mouth and blow! If ya can`t t`other end is blocked up hence no water hence no fill. Easy way around that is to then get some killrock kettle descaler and a small funnel and pour some of the stuff down offending hose, raise hose – wedge a pan under hose or something and leave for 10 mins then CLEAN END of pipe stick in gob and blow to see if lime blockage has gone. Reattach pipe and clip and try. This how I sort the problem out bit risky but better than hassle of taking soap box to pieces so long as you are careful. Best of luck.
“When you remove the back cover there are three stats with no buttons at all” Lots of versions to this model that is why.
Or disconnect the wash element wires. on a lot of this modern stuff if a heater goes to earth the trip often does not cut the circuit but what it does do is back feeds through the pcb resistors and temorarily scrambles the pcb digital display ( e/lux / zanussi w/dryer are infamous for it, bit of a long shot for your Bosch / Siemens but could well be that too ). So if you disconnect the dryer heater ( about 70 quid ) and then try the machine. If still no joy try disconnecting the wash element ( about 60 quid ) and then see if the display comes back. If none of those 2 things give pointers you might be then in the realms of pcb user board failure, a £130 / £140 board which is too much to start playing guessing games so my advice is don`t and you`ll just have to call out Siemens and pay through the nose since any pcb an independent repairer buys that does not cure the problem he`ll be stuck with the new board forever and so would you as non returnable parts, be warned.
Since the problem has got worse and even though you are getting through pcb`s like there is no tomorrow ( which is possible! ) the origin of the fault might be a now broken wire to the motor ( one of those brushless induction jobies but with a belt rather than a direct drive contraption ). Switch off / pull the plug and remove the back plate and have a good look especially if the cables are held in any base cable clips sometimes covered in a spongy grey foam. Bit of an optimistic suggestion I`ll grant you but not unknown. And yes the pcb are a bit naff. Also you could also try blowing down the pressure switch pipe for any resistance = a blockage = you can get an inverse blockage where the machine overfills but does not leak ( you would never know ) due to the air trap being part blocked-up but when the machine pumps out the trapped air doesn`t excape to release the p/swt = the machine still thinks it has water inside = it will not spin, same thing happens to the p/swt rubber hose – pin prick split gives you the same fault but for a different reason. I grant you that it is more likely to be the pcb but do not jump to that conclusion.DO NOT blow up into the actual p/swt as you`ll mess it up – they`re not like the old rubber diaphram p/swts of old
Addition. This bit is more involved. There is a rare chance, that I forgot to mention, that where the double valve plugs in ( in Indesit lingo it is called the hopper ) that the water holes, but more specifically its corresponding channels, get limed up which of course stops it filling. Get a bottle of Kilrock kettle descaler liquid and take it with you just in case and a tea towel. Unfortunately you will have to remove the dispenser to turn the thing upside down to run the Kilrock liquid in through the channels via the removed inlet valve. But BEFORE you do anything stick a thumb over one valve entry hole and blow through the other hole and then visa versa with t`other hole to see if either are blocked up and if so very carefully run some Kilrock through both holes and leave it to do its thing for 10 minutes and top up as necessary. Do not forget the 2 rubber valve bungs on reassembly otherwise it`ll be a case of a leaking disaster! If you have trouble with the bungs re-seating use some washing up liquid on the rubber.
H2O = water problem. Well it`ll either be just the in/let pipe needing replacing, or is loose, or its washer, or the valves filter needs cleaning, or the inlet valve itself is at fault. You should be able to diy all of that with the possible exception of changing the valve though that in itself is not really that difficult to be honest. Even in London ( the land of the “rip off “) if the inlet pipe should be no more than 4 quid for a generic one. The valve is listed on Indesit`s website at £25.72 ( another rip off! ) website part number j00146419 real part number is C00110333. Trade price is listed on Qualtex trade site at £6.26p (!!) + VAT so if a fancy London price you now know someone is quoting you a fleecing price.
True. hot and cold fill model or cold fill only? If you are attracted to the hot and cold fill check the way they do it! If they have followed the Hotpoint type of hot filling i.e. 60 degree programmes + fill hot only whereas a 40 / 50 degree programme fills hot and cold so much the better but if they have done it continental style not so good as that would probably mean only 1 programme trully fills hot 1 or 2x progs fill mixed and everything fills cold – no point in that unless you like 3.30 hour wash cycles starting from cold, even though you could still be washing in, catch frazed: “low low temperatures” which is in fact not good for the machine. My old Hotpoint for instance fills purely hot on a 60 degree programme but has the advantage of an economy button. In this case it still fills hot only but washes in what it gets ( skips the heating programme entirely ) say, at an incoming 50 / 55 degrees which is a damn useful programme since I spend all day under machines on grubby floors and 30 degree washing is next to bloody useless.
One point to mentioned is that Gorenje bought Asko who were then bought out by Hisense i.e. the ever invading Chinese.
Another point to be careful of as a general comment is if you went to Partmaster parts whilst doing a bit of buying research on future parts availability and say typed in a 3 year old ( to be fair ) Hisense or a Haier model xyz you might find that there are say, 170 parts listed for that model which sounds very promising but as you skip through to page 4 you`ll find those immortal words ” sorry this product is now unavailable” ( which could mean it is temporarily unavailable or could mean you are permanently stuffed ( who knows? ) from page 5 to page after page. So what looked promising at the outset is a spares nightmare storing itself up now never mind in x years ahead and with Chinese stuff that happens all the time ( `cause I sometimes work on the stuff ) right to repair law or no right to repair law which has more loop holes in it than an icing sugar sieve! You can get that happening on machines currently for sale on the shop floor that are current models and I kid ye not!! So if lashing out 500 + quid or so on an Ebac I would contact them for a chat, I never have, and see whether they are forth coming with all the details you deem fit to ask before you buy the thing and not after the event. Sales Dept have a very distorted view of reality that is for sure! Trust no one which is why I keep what I have or would buy fairly cheap and treat it a disposable if I could not fix it – luckily for me I can.ASKO only ever worked on one and that was years ago ( nice machine ), niche stuff then niche stuff now. Simple answer I do not know what the situation is now other than they are now selling them. I deal with ordinary every day machines not stuff over a grand. I suspect most of my customers have enough problems paying the council tax rather than blowing 1150+ quid on a washing machine with money they haven`t got, Christ this country is an expensive place to live, but I suppose we ain`t seen nothing yet!
If I was going to buy a new washing machine I would probably buy a 8kg 1400 spin Beko with a brush motor with a speed wash function. And yes it has a sealed tank but Beko sealed tanks, least to date, do seem to be longer lasting than most others but are expensive and seldom seem to be in stock ( Well that is just based on what I have experienced in day to day work. I have had a fair few Bosch tank failures at 4 to 5 years old, 1 was a couple with no children so that is even worse due to low usage ) whilst the cost of other spares are more reasonable (and available) than most other companies offerings at a similar price. The complete tanks however are not cheap but by the time they fail I should have got my monies worth. If I was to go for a non sealed tank machine maybe a Hisense with 2 year warranty all for just under 240 quid SO long as if it did throw a wobbler out of warranty the repair outcome on reflection would no doubt be a waste of me dosh because the spares supply is bad or I might even go and get a Bush, spares are not overly brilliant either. The point is, least with Bush is that they are cheap to buy and some of my customers have had them for 8 to 10 years with minimal grief and tears. I can tell you what I would not buy and that is Miele, high end Bosch Siemens or anthing expensive….no point me doing that in a hard water area and unless you had a softner or lived in a soft water area there would be no point anyone else doing that too..
Really when it comes down to it the answer is none of them which is unlikely to help you. Me thinks I`ll keep my 19 year old Hotpoint going a few years more yet, still get most parts for it which is more than you can say for the offbeat Chinese imported stuff such a Haier or gambling on a £1000+ machine of Nordics finest..Addition. If you do prove the valve is a duffy best phone Bosch up to make sure this valve I mentioned is the correct one given their website does not work properly. This trade is famed for valves that all look the same but in fact are not and I`d hate to have given you the wrong part number.
First point thanks for the model, Second point there are several variations / versions of models listed under LCD7W18 I picked one of the most common ones, the serial code number is 57????????. NTC is one of the thermistors or a themostat. And yes there is a reset button on the overload stat. Turn power off / unplug. Remove the heater cover or rear back cover and there bang in front of you is the heater. On top of the heater there are 2 stats the left one is the cycling stat the right one is the resettable stat. All you have to do is to press the little white/ grey button gently on the right stat and if it clicks you have reset the cicuit so that the heater will now work. Refit back on. If it does NOT click you are now in deep trouble and things get much more involved.
Usually, as per the ElectriQ brand which is a similar contraption, the cause is overloading the machine with clothes so that the air being blown into the machine cannot circulate properly and so the machine o/heats and the stat clicks out. OR the drum does not go around under load and just sits there looking rather sorry for itself and hums – usually so long as the drum is not seized for some reason that is the capacitor that has failed OR the cycle stat is on the blink OR the condenser is blocked up restricting the air flow. It is probably just overloading as the cause or the latter suggestion. The heater / stat group as one unit is about 100 quid on the version I looked at!!! ( part number 3822229pm ). A total Curry`s “waskly wip off” so it is worth checking as I have described before doing anything else or heavens forebid throwing it away in frustration.
