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Spot on! Seconded. Keep well away from auto dosing models Miele, Samsung or otherwise. A complication you do not need and never needed; pure gimmick to shift products based on The Green new agenda but that, in this context as in so many others, is all nonsense.
Probably all that has gone wrong with your machine is the brushes have worn out in the motor, remove them and have a look- the carbon bits should be worn right down with a matt black running face, when new the brushes are roughly abot 1.5 inches long. There are several brushes it could be because there are several different motors they could have used. Not that difficult to find out, just match up the brushes to a picture having typed in your model number. A bit of detective work could save you a great deal of spons for not much effort.
Forgot! If proved to be duff brushes Part number of genuine motor brushes is 371202407 and these are sold as singles not as a pair. A common pattern one comes as pairs part number is QUACAR140. The genuine ones in this case are higher quality in my opinion.
You might have to remove the motor to check. So looking from underneath from the front of the machine the holders that contain the carbon brushes are usually green. The right brush near the terminal block is easy to get to the 2 screws that hold it on but the left hand side is at a dreadful angle. The point is with these things is that if the r/h/side one looks as though it is only half worn out that doesn`t mean that the l/h/side one is ok too- this catches nearly everyone out!- as the brushes wear down unequally due presumably to the long spin times in one direction.
Very common this motor brush wearing out on some Beko machines.If you have a multimeter set it on high Ohms and remove the valves 3 wire connector you should then be able to test the solenoid coils. I had this one before, last wek as it happens, and it was the left coil open circuit. A new valve should cure the problem. And yes the wretched Bosch spares site will not work for your model and I did try the /01 version and that didn`t work either. Type in this part number: 00606001 ( a Siemens / Bosch part number ) and see visually if we are all singing from the same hymm sheet. Make sure because the valve is about 45 quid a shot from memory. The pattern / alternative* valve is a Qualtex valve equivalent at about half the price, part number QUAVAL44. *As far as I know this Qualtex supplied valve is exactly the same valve since Bosch do not make their own valves it is just a bought in part by the part suppliers as a bulk buy.
A very slim chance, because it is only 3 years old, that the air trap is blocked-up OR the pressure switch hose from the air trap is friction worn – got a hole in the pipe in other words! Either one would cause over filling. The new valve could even be faulty and not shutting off the water – very rare I grant you. OR the actual pressure switch itself. All sounds very strange to me and very bad luck.The pcb triac seldom if ever fail unless caused by shorted out valve wires for some reason and that in itself is very uncommon. All based on my limited experience with LG which despite the hype are good machines but not that commonly seen in my neck of the woods.
Very true. I missed that one mainly because I do not repair them and so forgot. Thx Ted.
Anyone else like to add to this list feel free to do just that.Ok this is how it is as of 2021 as far as is known to me in no particular order: non sealed tanked machines. Curry`s Logik, Montpellier, Haier, ProAction, Atlant, Bush, Haus, Holm, Russell Hobbs, Statesman, Curry`s Essentials, LG, Samsung, Ebac, ElectriQ, Electra, Some Bosch and some Siemens. Gorenje not sure, not commonly seen ( pronounced: Gorenya ), Sharp, Servis. Hisense. Amica.
NB. 1) Siemens, Bosch, Neff group and 2) Miele. 1) some are non sealed most will be sealed tanks what you do is find the model you fancy and go over to Bosch / Siemens / Neff parts websites respectively and type in the model number and that will show you whether it has a sealed tank or not. There are , of course thousands of models which is why I do not know. 2) unsure. But the entry level machines have a plastic type tank but whether it is non sealed I just do not know.
Additional notes. FIRST POINT: just because a machine is listed as having a non sealed tank only means that they are at least dismantleable which at least gives you a fighting chance. BUT some machines only officially list the rear half of the tank with the bearings pre fitted, Bosch included, Neff too ( part could be 230 quid !! ). But bearings are bearings ( well there are differing qualities ) so that is not so much of a problem but the oil seal might be a problem if a custom made part you cannot get as it might not be listed. It also depends upon how thrashed and so how trashed someone lets the machine become before they do the repair: for instance a machine in a terrible state with collaspsed bearings due to the design of the beaing housing can be impossible to shift the seized outer race because there is nothing to hit against since the outer race shell is stepped below the moulding hence only the rear complete half tank as one unit is officially available. The easiest machine to change bearings is Curry`s Logik so long as you catch it early, Samsung are fairly straight forward…..so long as you catch it early.
SECOND POINT: non sealed tanks beware of the drum spider! If drum bearings have disintergrated into shrapnel mode it usually takes out the the drum spider shaft. Out of the machines listed the Samsung and LG you can buy the spider and bearings I think from memory all the others, Bosch included, are complete drums with the spider. The point is this can all work out more expensive for someone than if their machine has a sealed tank! Some of those machines listed are imported by small importers so be very aware of parts non availability – I would be very surprised if you phone up one of these small importers that they would admit the truth that the parts are in fact unobtainable , only after the purchase would they then admit it ! So be careful.A pure guess since no model number given AND it`ll be too young to know much about anyway at 6 months . BUT it might have a heater reset thermostat fitted? If so you might find it under the rear main cover it might even mention it in the instruction book. If not it is under warranty isn`t it?
Sounds like a fair compromise. Best of luck.
As a future note on old appliances because I used to deal with stuff from the early 1980s: spares can be obsolete, or go obsolete the next day. Spares that are not obsolete can be very pricey. Never ever be under the illusion that because a machine is old, and so that there are now going to be few about, the spares are going to be reasonable, that is seldom the case. Part supply companies would rather raise the cost of those few spares so no one buys them then wright the stock off at end of year accounts whilst blowing their trumpet as to how Green they are rather than clearing out the old stock at a very sensible price until all the stock is at last sold AND then they are then now obsolete. How do I know well I used to work for a very famous appliance company who used to do just that. Mind you they were run by a bunch if Di*ks that I would not have put in charge of a village fete ice cream scoop never mind a company!“from my point of veiw the unreliability of sealed tubs stems from a cheap and non lubricated water seal along with poor quality thin aluminium spiders” Too true Dave.
I`ve, as well as others, have been saying this for some years now having cut the plastic tanks open of premature failing tank units whether it was bearing failure or / and spider rotting = cracking from sealed tanked Bosch products to Indesits / Hotpoints to Samsung unsealed tanks and many others. It basically boils down, like you say, to el cheapo cost cutting materials and lack of a geased bearing oil / water seal no grease = friction = premature failure = nuked bearings. Even the great Atlant factory in Belarus do not seem to bother with a greased oil seal if you watch the factory video via Youtube and that is surprising to me as their stuff is usually well made and thought out, least historically it always was, certainly in Soviet times, but at least you can take the tank to pieces should the need arise…..which it probably will.Add. The pressure switch is an old school type ( that is because although it might have failed the Chinese have at least some good sense ) so you can blow into it and it should click once if it doesn`t if you hit with the back of a screwdriver they sometimes will then click to prove a point! If do not trust it again but buy a new p/swt if that is the case.
