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Sounds like a classic pressure switch electrical fault to me. If the p/swt is faulty such as contacts are seized in the ” i have just filled up with water mode ” the wash motor comes on instead of filling first to trigger the p/swt and THEN the motor should come on.
Why don`t you google Partmaster and follow the links to your model listed as there is a 38 page technical repair booklet ( service manual ) on line. Your machine should be Chinese in which case as with most other chinese appliance manufacturers freely publish their technical booklets. That brick red pressure switch is fairly well known to give up the ghost.“have no trips at home” Me neither, the old wire fuse system has a few advantages. If I had anything super critical I would just use a plug external trip e.g. when using an electric lawn mower. My pad has never been rewired either and it will not be least whilst I own it.
I do not repair Miele BUT I have owned a Miele ordinary ( so this was well before heat pump dryers ), condenser tumble dryer that was second hand ( all my stuff is second or even third hand ) before it was sold on ( to a customer who if you sold her a steel girder it would invariably end up with a knot in it within, oh, in about a month! ) which was shot in 6 months ( to last that long she was obviously losing her touch ). Thought it was very superior in materials and construction though fairly elaborate and not that easy to work on. But what you now have to think along the lines of is: what may have better materials than your Beko ( which I quite like ) is often super complex. Being super complex in itself not necessarily a bad thing or rather does not always mean it`ll fail because of that ( you could say and it would also be true that simpler stuff does fail sometimes sooner that is because they are usually cheap machines hence cheap materials or / and careless design but being a simple design with very superior materials is something that is hard / impossible to find these days because 1) that is a good idea and 2) the world does not, but should, work that way – you`ll notice with the Green agenda no one ever talks about simple but really well made it is always some high tech piece of junk that performs very eco friendly but it soon jacks and is thrown away that is not what I thought how it should be e.g. My mom`s hand mince meat mincer was made in 1957 all metal and enamelled in mid green colour and was in regular use until a few years before her death compared with a modern C21st electrically operated 3 speed motor plastic mincer with a crap cast metal worm drive that will crack within 2 years, I mean who makes this crap and why is it imported and why does it have to be electric in the 1st place for christ sake it is supposed to be eco friendly you cannot get more eco friendly than using it manually other than not bothering having one in the 1st place ) but on the other hand should it bite the dust and how it bites the dust and given the expensive and repair spares` costs may well land yourself right in it as can be seen on Ebay “machines not working, spares or repairs ” some Miele, mostly washing machines I grant you, are not that old but still have obviously failed presumably very expensively in order to be there; whilst often they do not sell for much money they also can certainly cost big bucks to fix unless you “gets lucky” – don`t ever bank on that!
Whilst I do not myself have any desire to own brand new classy expensive stuff and so I always thought a bog standard Beko condenser t/dryer to be a reasonable and good machine where the common problem is the front 2 drum support wheels prematurely wearing out ( the donk donk noise as the drum turns ) and sometimes the heater`s thermistor can run to earth ( bit of a weird one that! ) but overall I think for the money they are better value than the Miele even though the Miele is much better made ( based on the one I had through my paws ). Just an almost final point: the majority of Hotpoint and Indesit tumble dryers are simple but the materials are not that good but you could say on reflection not that bad either depending upon what you are comparing them with. Where these things slip up above all is just poor basic design, it really is pretty terrible, they should know better and so should the consumers who treat the stuff really badly- and yet it has to be said God only knows which boozer they designed some of this stuff in! I have an Indesit condenser t/dryer!
I know how they work but I will be the first to admit that I do not have much experience on heat pump machines and frankly I just am not really interested in anycase as it seems a lot of complications for little real world gain and by the time it only becomes heat pump dryers I`ll be fully retired anyway but they seem like storing up a great deal of future trouble with the refigerant & probably the microproccessor board/s and so I shudder to guess how much that would cost to put right let alone on a Miele: bowel tremblingly expensive I would of thought. .(really bad design on this by the way: the removable back panel doesn’t include access to the bolts to remove the motor from the tank, and there isn’t enough clearance to get the bolts out with a socket and ratchet handle, I had to use a ring spanner)
How dare anyone criticize the Great Lords of Design!
You are spot on, it is stupid design, nay a dangerous one too: that rear back cover screw hole point at 6 o/clock position can catch you out if your spanner slips causing your wrist to make a very nasty impact just shows you someone was not thinking straight at the design stage or much more than likely couldn`t give a toss ; all part of that German sense of humour. To make matters even worse for access there`s several bosch machines with this back panel that also has a riveted base plate too, that one is interestingly fun and games as you are supposed to remove the front panel to pull da motor out so all very time consuming; what a pain in the arse!Yep, Smeg can be Bekos and that is very true as are Blomberg also, as are a touch of the Grundigs. To be frank as far as new s/steel tanked machines go it`s going to be more up-market Miele but I suspect they too will end up with a Glaron k tank as time goes by if they are successful. Of cousre “successful” could mean just until any warranty expires!
Not necessarily so! Had an heat pump element go to earth in a spectacular fashion. Made pumping out noise for less than 2 secs then blew a fuse since house was trippless. Also had the sealed plug do this twice on Bosch dishwashers, looked visually fine too but were nothing of the sort. Also one where t`other end of mains lead where the lead plugs into the pcb. That one was caused by a leak ( another Bosch special )
However, I do agree that it could well be a duffy pcb it could even be a duffy board due to the heater circuit being duff too.“I’m not so sure. They posted profits after tax of 750m Euro last FY. That doesn’t sound like a firm that should be struggling on warranty punctuality.”
But it does sound like a company full of BS!heater perhaps. These are the achillies heel of the whole sorry range. The heater / wash motor unit part number 00651956 £112.86 for your model. Beware that they are apt to fail again anything from under 3 mins to well…months..years.
Well there are 17 versions to your model – the product code begins with 9 – but basing that it is possibly only cosmetic ( but might not be ) have a look at the motor brushes before doing anything else. They could well be worn out. For the machine to function they wire it through the motor. Also check that the tacho motor coil has not fallen off the back of the motor OR the tacho magnet has not come loose and has fallen off within the coil, the latter is not visually obvious, usually from memory it is an unscrewed magnet that 70{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time causes your problem..
And tell her that the 1st wash she does when she comes back home do not wash coloureds just in case!
“I assume that the internal winding overload fuse is not something that can be replaced on its own?” Correct.
“Therefore a new motor would be needed and probably time to give up?” Sadly yes. Just make absolutely sure that the new brushes are in fact touching the commutator: each brush terminal ( with its wire removed ) to commutator via meter, if your meter has a buzzer mode use that setting if it buzzes you got it right.“I hate being beaten by things but on the plus side my knowledge of the internal workings of washing machines has been significantly increased over the last 2 weeks.”
Thanks, but it remains a fact that that is a totally unconventional way to remain sane!It was when they were Phillips hot and cold fill washing machines probably the 1st to use the plastic tank from memory and yes they were long lasting and rarely ponged….why? Well they used to spin and pump out at the same time which boils down to that sludge never had much of chance to settle anywhere using, by todays pitiful standards of half bakeness, high levels of water! The Bendix washing machine that used to leak was not so much the steel enamel tank but was the stainless steel tank on the lower suspension mounts because the design and welding was naff; a trifle optimistic of them at the time! I rarely got problems with the enamel tanks unless someone did something repeatingly daft with coins chipping the enamel – good machines at the time as were one of the cheapest priced machines that just happened to have a s/steeled tank ……Candy!. Actually s/steel tanks have advantages but s/steel has its main failure is that it is brittle ( which is why car steering ball joints do not use it or suspension springs but some bikes use s/steel spokes which in my experience is never a good idea ) least at the grade used for tanks as opposed to drums whereas plastic does not rust, is light, is cheap/er and if well made lasts. On the negative you get a lot more strengthening nooks and crannies, they can be recycled but in reality it does not happen the way everyone thinks sealed or otherwise – the reality is a pretty poor show at best, and there is a problem with deflection which is why some plastic tanks internal show stress cracks where the bearing metal tube is buried within its plastic moulding e.g. some Indesits and some LG. The common makes that use a plastic tank which are dismantleable to change bearings are Vestel made machines ( which covers at least 24 brands ), EBAC from England, anything Chinese, Atlant from Belarus ( which are historically / were pretty good but they do not export to UK ), Samsung and a few Bosch/Neff/Siemens but the price of parts are not reasonable in my view and mid to upper range Miele ( whose parts prices are utter robbery ).
Conclusion: why not look in to EBAC and see if that ticks most of the right boxes, a start if nothing else.If you want something around 500 quid and made in England why not investigate EBAC washing machines!
Note had this one as yet myself. I`d hazzard a guess it is a duff pcb because the valve is letting in h20 on spin / pump out.However, the pressure switch of that design when they fail very strange things can happen ( had something very similar to your problem with a Hotpoint.). I`d try a new pressure switch first. BUT JUST TO MAKE SURE before that if you get the water filling the machine up with a normal speed of fill and you were to turn the machine electrically off at the plug if the water still pours through in to the machine i`ll be a dodgy valve which does not mean the machine should fill when the machine is not in use, i.e. the classic dip dip throughout the night common valve failure ( that is a different fault ) – actually with these Beko valves it is usually the opposite i.e. not letting water or very little in to the machine.
