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The only NTC I can see is in the fan ducting cap next to the motor….. but I don’t know what it’s supposed to read (otherthan a variation in readings when warmed)
asp11 wrote:……. UPDATE…..
I visited this dryer today and checked the position of the new heater against the diagram from DAVE and it was fine…….. There seemed to be only 1 NTC in the fan duct casing which wasn’t dirty or broken and no other stats/ntc’s anywhere else. The condenser and filter were good BUT the new heater I fitted has to be replaced again because the “one shot” stat is open circuit……….. I REALLY can’t see any reason why this happened…… the cx has agreed with the supplier to have the heater exchanged FOC, so I’m worried when I return to fit this 2nd heater that it’s still not going to operate or bring up those errors again ???
What should I do…… Anything else I could order?
When the last heater was fitted it worked for me while on site for 5mins but not when the cx used it…. thats when it flagged up those errors!!! 🙁
………….. as of 30.11 = ANY OTHER THOUGHTS with this before I fit the 2nd heater PLEASE??
……. UPDATE…..
I visited this dryer today and checked the position of the new heater against the diagram from DAVE and it was fine…….. There seemed to be only 1 NTC in the fan duct casing which wasn’t dirty or broken and no other stats/ntc’s anywhere else. The condenser and filter were good BUT the new heater I fitted has to be replaced again because the “one shot” stat is open circuit……….. I REALLY can’t see any reason why this happened…… the cx has agreed with the supplier to have the heater exchanged FOC, so I’m worried when I return to fit this 2nd heater that it’s still not going to operate or bring up those errors again ???
What should I do…… Anything else I could order?
When the last heater was fitted it worked for me while on site for 5mins but not when the cx used it…. thats when it flagged up those errors!!! 🙁
electrofix wrote:nothing i can think of either
bit of an odd fault
but if its a board problem then only hotpoint or someone who has invested in the programming gear can do it
Dave
oh rightyo, that’s good to know Dave…… I might have just decided to order a Programmed pcb —– Thanks for the imput
Hollytree_Technical wrote:The TOC 3872079029 is the Cooling motor cut in TOC for the oven whereas the others are the overheat cut outs, You should find that one of the 2 blue (I think) wires goes direct to the cooling fan and the other back to power (possibly Neutral but maybe Live). The 2 white wires are the little TOC heater which cuts it in whenever you turn the oven on and once the chassis is above the temperature rating of the TOC it should keep the fan going till the chassis is below the rating of the TOC.
I would defiantly change the TOC as that will almost defiantly be gone. If the selector switch contacts give a resistance of more the 10 ohms then I would look at changing that as well (I have had an appliance where both were required).
Jem
THANKS Jem…….. That TOC did the trick 🙂
I did notice that the cooling motor has a thin wire going to it, so yes your’re correct there and there was 2 other thin wires going to the switch……… You have been very helpful – THANKS I shall order that part
The wiring going to the switch and the rotary section both look good, so if this TOC is more vunerable to failure then maybe I’d be best to change it??
Hollytree_Technical wrote:Was the TOC part number 3872079029 or one of the other ones?
If it was that TOC then check the selector switch as the TOC has its own mini heater in it which activates the switch, this heater is switched on/off by the selector switch so you may need to check that.
Even if the duct in the technical bulletin that Dave posted was blocked I would still expect the cooling fan to run so would think that an electrical fault was more likely.Jem
AHA…. I didn’t change that part you mentioned, its the Cooling fan toc (klixon) that I’ve changed……. didn’t actually know what TOC (3872079029) you suggested was, just thought it was a grouping of wiring going to the neons!!! My mistake!!
So would you suggest I fit a new TOC 3872079029 ?
The selector switch isn’t in stock with Connect but the TOC is……. what do you think Jem?Got it – Thanks very much………….. the machine isn’t coming up with it’s own fault code BUT maybe the test programme will show something
Hiya Dave — I’ve checked my inbox and junk but can’t see you email…… did you use = asp11@hotmail.co.uk
Alright, that sounds like whats happened but weird how it gets a dry joint because its covered in that gel stuff…… Thanks
jontymox wrote:Good afternoon all,
Wondering if anyone can assist with a problem on the above washer?
On a wash cycle, water is drawn, agitation commences, and the heater cuts in.
However, a few minutes into the cycle it pauses/stops, and the drum action is affected in that it judders very slightly to and fro.
If a drain/spin cycle is selected it drains and spins perfectly.
There are no error codes displayed, and I suspect the main electronic board, but would welcome any advice.
jonty
Hello to you!I have that same problem with the same model atm….. My machine only has 1 pcb, lying flat at the top by the facia, it doesn’t have a “motor board”
SO is it this pcb at fault? The 3 motor wires do go direct to the pcb :rolleyes:
