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Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey,
It’s a wild guess because I can’t see your board and I wasn’t there when they made it but; I would imagine the suppliers ran out of the 6.3 volt so they opted for the 10 volt.
I wonder if you can give me the date that the processor was programmed.
Somewhere on your rear module you will have a sticker; there will be a date which I believe is usually the week number and year.
I have seen early builds with the white capacitors and late builds with the newer style blue capacitors assembled in 2005, both have had a 6.3 volt cap.
If the board is year’s later then 2005, keep to the 10 volt in case there has been some modification that I have not seen, otherwise stick the 6.3 in.
For the flashing display etc, wire the two 1uf caps in parallel and use them to replace C1, C2, C14 & C15. Farnell 975-1440
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi RichardCowey,
Yes that 10 volt cap from RS is spot on for your requirements.
If you’re ordering from RS, I would recommend you order a compressor relay too. It’s less then £3 and will give your board a new lease of life.
RS part number RS Stock No. 198-6983
Manufacturer Tyco Electronics
Farnell offer free shipping now, the relays are shipped in a tough plastic case that stops the pins from getting bent.
Farnell also offer a range of 10volt caps with 3.5mm lead spacing.
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun1878,
For the record lol
Your little orange compressor relay is a ‘change over’ relay.
When it’s off, it supplies power to the defrost circuit.
When it’s on, the contact changes over and supply power to the compressor.
It’s very likely your compressor relay is not turning off.
It may well disconnect the compressor but may not turn off fully due to internal failure.
If you have a meter and want to test it, let me know and I will help.
If you want to change it, make sure you use the right type.
What’s the right type?
Apart from the physical size and pin orientation etc etc, the relay has a high coil resistance of 1.4 k ohms and deviating from this spec may have repercussions later.
This relay is available from RS or Farnell. Farnell no longer have the £15 minimum order value so for that reason I recommend them.
If you want to repair your front board too, you will need two 1uf capacitors.
I have the part numbers below for Farnell but if you wish to use RS let me know
I’ve also included the part number for C2 next to the chip.Farnell Compressor Relay = 117-5017
Farnell 1000uf cap 6.3 volt = 969-2738
Farnell 1uf Cap 305v ac = 975-1440 you need 2The reason I chose that particular electrolytic is because it has the 3.5 mm lead spacing.
If you wish to give the defrost relay and ice maker relay a new lease of life, get two 121-8837 relays too.
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Ozzz1,
if what you say is true, why do manufactures make a 6.3volt?
Why don’t the board manufactures just stick 25 volt cap in and be done with it.
After all, the caps with a higher working voltage are cheaper because they are more widely used.I had a discussion with Nick many pages ago, he stuck a cap with a higher working voltage in and still had problems.
Did Google also tell you about capacitive reactance? And how the voltage is not in phase with the current?
I bet it didn’t!
There is far more to a capacitor then Google can tell us and I don’t pretend to know it all.Just finished the school run, I’m reading the comments from RichardCowey whom I’m trying to help but spending my time here.
He has found a listing for a 10 volt cap.
So why have 10 volt, 16 volt, 25 volt …….16 volt is close to 10 volts isn’t it.
You’re right to be argumentative if you feel I have given inaccurate information.
Sadly Google does not answer all our questions and if people start raising the working voltage of their capacitors they may well have problems!
When people are replacing components, I am assuming they are using components of the same value.
RichardCowey may pop into Maplin, tell me he has replaced C2 with a new one and still have problems.
He may think it’s not necessary to tell me they only had 25volt units and I spend the next month trying to establish why his board is still clicking.
I asked RichardCowey to make sure he had a 6.3 volt so as not to run into problems later. He obviously has a rogue board with a 10 volt since the many I have repaired here had 6.3.
I would therefore ask RichardCowey to replace the cap with the same value as the unit that has been removed. (There may be other changes to his board that I can’t see)
I didn’t get my electronics qualification and experience from Google or the back of a cornflakes packet. Neither did I think my answers were going to be scrutinised.
I am simply saying; don’t substitute components for ones that are close at hand, use the right value.
Of course Ozzy1, if you feel the circuit designers have got it wrong according to Googles ‘rule of thumb’ feel free to modify the circuit in any way you like but don’t expect it to always work.
And when one has ‘blanket bombed’ all the usual components and it still doesn’t work, I’m happy to offer my free advice.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Richardcowey,
If you’re buying a new one, make sure the voltage is 6.3 volts and not more.
Just for the record, a capacitors value is achieved when it has two thirds of its working voltage applied to it.
This cap has around 4.5 volts so replacing it with a 16 or 25 (volt working) cap would make things worse.
hthRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun1878,
The first simple thing you can check is the motorised baffle top left of the fridge.
Stick you head in the fridge and see if you can see the vents open. It’s like a flat louver that opens and closes to allow cold air to enter the fridge.
If they’re open, the problem lies somewhere else and you may have an iced up evaporator that needs a defrost.
If they’re closed, it’s either sticking, faulty or the temperature control is faulty.
Have a look and go from there.
Hope this helps.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Richardcowey,
First of all I’m surprised you would go to the trouble of ordering some components and only changing half of the usual suspects.
If you read all of the recent threads on this excellent forum, you would have seen C2 next to the processor is also known to cause havoc all by itself.
I know it’s there because I wrote it.
C2 derives its power from C1 after being rectified.
The little 100n or .1uf in positions C26, C27 & C28 aren’t actually that important and do not supply power to anything!! (but still change)
I’m surprised you changed them and not the more important C6 & C8.
C1, C5, C6, C7 & C8 are all important and should all be changed together with C2.
From memory (don’t have my notes to hand) C8 does the defrost relay. (I could be wrong) If the defrost circuit is faulty; you will get long periods without the compressor running.
I know one circuit is responsible for the Ice maker and one for the standby but why leave them not knowing if they have any ill affects on the rest of the board.
Change them all so that you can at least eliminate the rear module and start on an even playing field.
C2 will give you your machine gun noise.
Hope this helpsRe: neff w1410wogb/06 not heating up enough
Hi,
Which element glows red?
If it’s the element on the oven rear wall then your fan is not working.
hope this helpsRe: Stoves Double Oven/Grill LPG Model no 050507077
Hi Tom,
What is the actual fault you are trying to repair??Re: Admiral Fridge Freezer (side by side)
Hi Chezza,
I have no idea but, had it on good authority from this site that many manufactures including Admiral use the same boards.
Have i been misinformed? 🙁
Thanks though
broddersRe: Admiral Fridge Freezer (side by side)
Hi Nelix,
I understand the Admiral Fridge Freezers have Whirlpool electronics.
There is a huge forum here on this site explaining the problems with the circuit boards.
Possibly a cheap fix.
You will need to take the back off, look for the rear module (in a plastic box) and see if it’s the same.
Check the label and see if it’s made by ‘Ispracontrols’Hopefully we can get your unit working again.
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Board Bloke, is that a printed circuit or Surf 🙂
I need your e-mail to send some pics. Send a p-m
The cap details are in this forum towards the last few pages.
RS order line close at 8pm so you should have them by the morning.You mentioned replacing the rear board, was that a new one or simply the caps?
Regards
Brodders
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Good morning Daddycool, sorry for delay, my partner was on facebook all night 😈 lol
Just sent the pics.
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I like it !!! 😀 😀 😆
Send me your e-mail and I’ll send you a pic.
The four that come out are all in Parallel too !! So we fit 2 bigger ones and wire them in parallel to achieve the same value as the four that come out. Simples 😆
Brodders :rolls:
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi 2twotoes,
What’s your model number again?
Do you have an ice maker?The bulb problem is probably just the bulbs since both are not working or is it just one of the lights?
Like ‘raceboy’ you could eliminate the bulbs by swapping them over if one of them still works.
bb
