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Re: W’Pool SxS FRBB36A, fridge not cooling
Hi, how old is it?
I would check to see if the compressor is running then inspect the evaporater to see if you have too much ice or too little.
It will be one or the other.Re: Blown PCB on John Lewis JLFZW1806
Hi,
Yes I specialise in PCB repairs and have just finished a Daewoo Board for a side by side in Egypt.
Daewoo could not help since it was not a UK model.
Get in touch john-broderick@hotmail.com if you need some help.
Regards
bbRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi you Friging engineers
Have now retired to France due to ill health but kept most of my tools, guy local to me has a Whirlpool S20E RWW2V-A/G which now blows trip, after power supply problems to house, most of my work was on commercial kit but I did repair a few american/canadian units but the build quality on this unit looks pretty poor, sorry I degress I checked the compressor all OK, ran a fly lead to it and it runs fine, went for the defrost heater but that seems OK tried to run unit with defrost heater disconnected it clicked a few times but did not run refitted the heater and it tripped instantly? I thought it strange it not running with the heater disconected but without a circuit diagram not easy to trace? I was going to ask if anyone had a diagram but after reading through these posts is it worth repairing?????? he has had 5years use out of it, he took out an extended warrany which has finished about a month ago and no one is interested in repairing it, if anyone has a circuit diagram just for my interest, to see if it is in the defrost circuit, I can see what I believe is a defrost thermostat (small plastic, square attached to evaporator)as well that could be faulty, but why did it not fire up when the defrost heater was removed???
Your answers on a postcard to:-
Only joking 🙂
Good morning FridgeDoc,
You had the answer in your hand.
If the electrics didn’t trip with the defrost element disconnected, that is the fault.It’s actually quite common on older units (5 to 6 years) and is the first thing to check if your RCD is tripping.
It’s 614 watts
85 ohms between contacts
SHOULD HAVE NO CONTINUITY TO OUTSIDE CASE!!!!!! Yours will have.The circuit diagram won’t help, the defrost circuit is monitored by the Pic Processor as are 6 other circuits.
If the ‘defrost’ circuit is open circuit, it inhibits the compressor since it will only cause a rise in temperature in a few weeks if not working.
The little black box?
It’s a frost / ice sensor and 2 contacts close at minus 20 degrees.
If these are closed, the clock in the processor starts ticking.
The system will ‘defrost’ after 8 hours of compressor run time.
The heater switches on for 2 minutes, off for 2, back on for 2 until the frost sensor warms up to +3 degrees (+/- 3 degrees)
The black box also has a thermal fuse that blows at about 85 degrees C and will open the heater circuit.Is a £1000 fridge freezer worth repairing after 5 years?
Yes of course; the heater only costs about £84 or less (see parts on this site)http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Refriger … eater.html
I hope this helps.bb
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
my Whirlpool fridge freezer is having many of the problems described in this thread (have not read the whole thread, just the first 12 pages and the last few, due to my broadband connection being very slow just now – but thats a whole other issue!)
I have a S25DRSS33-A/G purchased new in 2005.
the other 2 numbers are
858616815010 and 110443022488Fridge and freezer are at correct temperature, no obvious build up of ice that I can see (though i haven’t removed any of the panels etc), never needed to defrost so assume auto-defrost is working correctly.
but, ice maker has recently stopped making ice – seems to be no water getting to it, even though water dispenser still working fine.
also, over past couple of years have been experiencing the following intermittnetly (but seem to be more frequent recently):-
– clicking & flashing interior lights which stop when open doors
– loud beeping which continues for an hour or more then stops (and freezer temp display shows – – then goes back to normal)
– thumping/clicking/loud sound often at night
– water spurts when being dispensed, sometimes is also a clicking noise.do I need to replace one or both of the control boards, or is there a cheaper option ?(I’m not confident enough with soldering iron to tackle changing components myself though)
I read about a “kit” supplied by Broddersbaldrick – is this what I need??is the lack of ice-making related to the control boards, or a different issue?
thanks
Hi 127Donut
First of all, the front modules on S20D’s don’t go wrong and don’t cause clicking and flashing.
Your problems are on the rear module.A kit would sort the ‘clicking’ and possibly the ice maker issue but, most ice maker problems are caused by other issues on the rear module or the Infra-red panel on your freezer wall not repaired by the kit here or anywhere else.
Just for confirmation, it is the Ice Maker itself that sends the signal to the water solenoid to ‘request’ water but that’s only if the freezer is close to minus -18 degrees.
That’s a logical way of saying ‘contacts close inside the ice maker and power up the solenoid’ for a given time.Sometimes one of the capacitors found in the kits will fix the problem but you’ve already said you’re not confident with a soldering iron.
In my experience, it’s usually (but not always) another rear module fault or a component on the Infrared panel that inhibits the ice maker from functioning.
As far as making ice, all the rear module does is – stop it from delivering ice until 40 minutes has passed from the previous yield.
The Ice maker is a pretty dumb device so doesn’t often fail.
It consists of a motor, a thermostat and a heater and will keep demanding water every time the internal thermostat closes.
It doesn’t know that minus –18 degrees for 60 seconds isn’t going to freeze the water it holds.
That’s why the rear board has to use it’s little bit of intelligence to slow things down lolRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
I have had a Whirlpool S25B since 2003. Have replaced boards in 2004 and then in 2008 for reasons most of you have suffered. Fortunatley this was the first time I took out extended guarantee.
Now I have intermittent power failures. My thoughts are that fridge freezer is tripping RCD. Have changed all 9 caps using kit from this site. Seems to happen less frequently. Now happens about once every 24 hours.
I have searched most posts, but cannot see any link. Hope someone can advise.
Thanks
Hi, as has been previously mentioned, the most common cause of a side by side tripping an RCD is the ‘defrost’ heating element going partially short circuit to ground.
They should have no continuity between either of the terminals and the actual metal element case or over one million ohms minimum.
The resistance of the element between the 2 terminals is about 85 ohms.
2 The second cause is the heating element for the ice maker. Just unplug the ice maker to rule it out.
3rd, the wiring on older units running through the top hinge of the freezer door chafe and short the live or neutral to ground.
Last but not least is the compressor.Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
And Justino,
You joined in November, took the info posted here; blew your front module up at Christmas and now jump on Chezza’s bandwagon with the insults.
You weren’t so clever at christmas sticking a cap in back to front were you!
Then faced with 2 blown components that I told you to check, you asked me what to get.Yes blow smoke up etc etc because without the input from me and a few others, you and your soldering iron would have cost you £200.
Don’t get high and mighty with me because, you like the other bloke who suck up valuable information, have nothing to offer.
If you can’t respect those who help (for free) don’t post.
It’s amazing how many became experts over night!
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
“broddersbaldrick” wrote:
If anyone still has unanswered questions, I’ll try to help when I can.I have a question …. how do you manage to get your head in through your door , your regalness ? I have wondered for a while now
I do this for nothing and don’t expect insults from Scotish twats.
Stick it up you kilt *****Edit: Swear word edited. It`s a public forum where anyone from the age of eight to eighty can visit.
Don
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Shaun1878,
thank you very much for the mention.
In Mid January I had a job offer in Kuwait helping the Americans with their comms; so couldn’t spend the time helping people as I had done.
I met some very nice and friendly people here.
I was disappointed to pop home to the uk and find I had been taken off the mailing list from this forum.
I was more disappointed to see that a guy whom I’d been helping for hours and hours over Christmas didn’t mention I was out of the country neither did he mention how he so cleverly found he had blown up 2 signal resistors on the edge of his front board.
I helped him because I felt partially responsible for him not knowing an electrolytic capacitor with a minus marked on it is polarity conscious and would blow up his board if fitted back to front!
I’ve also had private messages from a retail company asking for me to diagnose problems with a few faulty units in their workshop!
This forum wasn’t a trade forum was it?
For all these recent reasons I am stepping down and will let others have a go.
Thank you to all I have met.
Regards BroddersbaldrickRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Raceboy, wow, good to hear from you and it’s really nice that you have taken the time to write. 😀
Yes still helping many nice people; most are grateful and take the invaluable information from here and fix their Whirlpools.
You might have seen, some just want me to do all the work and seem to expect it of me. 😥
Anyway, thank you Raceboy, have a Merry Christmas and a Good New Year
Kindest Regards
broddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Reddog,
Farnell
Manufacturer: EPCOS
Order Code: 1200836
They are half price at the moment but you have to buy 2.Just in case your C3 is on the way out, order a
Order Code: 9692738
Manufacturer: PANASONIC
Description CAPACITOR, 1000UF, 6.3VThis cap comes in a pack of 5, you can save some and maybe use one on the rear module too.
Hope this helps
BroddersRe: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Justino, I’m sure the 2uf cap is ok.
You have a faulty C3 too
It’s becoming quite common that this fails too.
C3 is like C2 on the rear board. 1000uf 6.3 volt 3.5 mm lead spacing.
Change that and all your flashing will stop (guarantee it)Reddog, one can’t buy direct replacements for the front caps (unless you ship from China)
Buy a 2uf cap and wire that in place of C1, C2, C14 & C15
You may need to replace C3 the same as Justin.Monday is the last day for first class mail so you may not get one before Christmas.
Special delivery is available up to the 23rd but costs more.Hope this helps
Merry Christmas to all here and UKWhiteGoods specifically Mr K Watt 😀
Regards
Brodders
Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
Hi Paddy, sounds like the usual ‘defrost’ problem.
If you’ve changed all the components and your father has finally defrosted the freezer, you shouldn’t have any more problems.
Oh, yes happy Christmas to all 🙂Re: Whirlpool American Fridge Freezer broken down – help!
O.M.G 😯
5 minutes after writing the above, I had a call to look at a 15 month old Whirlpool 20RB-3DJ that I’d been discussing for a week or so.
Flextronic in Hungary now manufacture the modules for these. At first glance, very sophisticated and full use of surface mount technology.
No more capacitor failures because there aren’t any.
(Well, not in the same sense as before)
So what was the problem?
The main power supply chip had literally blown it’s top and the circuit board was fried, tracks have got hot, melted and shorted other components.
The unit had been in service for only 3 or 4 months due to house renovations.
Give me a cheap old power supply any day.
Modern technology strikes again.
A big retailer (who don’t make Chicken Korma) are willing to contribute to the repair.
For the cynics out there; quoting the Sale Of Goods Act does work and retailers are finally contributing fairly towards repairs / replacements.
Thank you
