[garn]

Re: Drum bearings advice needed?? Hotpoint wf100 drum and PH

iadom Is Correct

As I Suggested In a earlier a new Tub replacement And Spider Could be The best Road you Can go Down.

garn

[garn]

Re: Drum bearings advice needed?? Hotpoint wf100 drum and PH

hIGH Stin74.

At The Present Moment I Would Resist Buying Any Parts Until You Have Completed The Strip down.

There Are several Ways You can go And It Depends On The Condition of The Components After Everything Is Cleaned Up.

The Seal comes The Bearing kit.

The bearing Removal can be Difficult on Theses Drums if You Don’t Have Access to A bearing removal tool
And resetting A New one Can be just as bad You will Have To Set it Square Without Any Damage. The Inner bearing is set deep in The Drum.

First Of All you Will have to Clean The Drum Spider up where you can see The Rust This Could Prevent It From resetting on the New bearing Or Tub.
You can use A Wire Brush or Wire Wool Or A brush On A Drill or A Brush On A Angle Grinder.

I Would Suggest If You Decide To Use These Tools That You Wear Clear Face protection Something Like A Face mask Similar to What The Local Chaps Wear When They Are Cutting Striming The Grass Verges. and Gloves

Bearing Removal Clean Round The Seal.
You Will Need a 10 or 12mm Punch A Old One Works better it has A bit Of A Grip. A Steel Tube or Jack bar
First Knock The Rear bearing Out The One That’s near The Belt Pulley
Don’t use Heavy Force Just Tap it
12 3 6 9 O’clock And Then at 10 20 40 50 of The Hour Just Keep repeating That Until the Bearing Is Out.
The Same Applies To The Inner Bearing But This can Be very Stubun And Tight.
Take Note When Attempting To Remove The Inner bearing With A Punch Place The Punch At the Outer Race of The Bearing At All Times There Is A risk of Separating The Bearing breaking It And You May be Left With Part of The Bearing race Left In The Drum.

Garn

[garn]

Re: Drum bearings advice needed?? Hotpoint wf100 drum and PH

stin74 wrote:

garn wrote:
Your Going To Have To prop The Outer Drum on The floor With 3 Heavy Timbers or a Couple of bricks or use A Black And Decker Workbench Floor Is Better Your going To Have give This A good Swipe Several Times With A Hammer.
First Of All Prop The Outer Drum So That The Steel Inner Is Clear Beware There Are Three Locating Tabs On The Outer Drum Keep The Props Clear of Them.

At This Stage If You Can Get Someone To Hold The Drum With You.

if You Have Access To Something Larger Longer Than The Extension bar Old Car jacking bar Or heavy Tube So that Your Hands Are Clear From The Strike Point

It Will be Better To get Someone To Hold The Drum At This Stage

hammer The Drum Spider At About 5 Shots At A Time In A Continuous Momentum With a Lot Of force.

once Its Released send A Couple Of Pics Of The Drum Spider where The Belt Pulley Shaft at The End of The Spider.

which is the drum spider ? do you mean the metal shaft that the pulley bolt goes into ?

Yep

[garn]

Re: Drum bearings advice needed?? Hotpoint wf100 drum and PH

Your Going To Have To prop The Outer Drum on The floor With 3 Heavy Timbers or a Couple of bricks or use A Black And Decker Workbench Floor Is Better Your going To Have give This A good Swipe Several Times With A Hammer.
First Of All Prop The Outer Drum So That The Steel Inner Is Clear Beware There Are Three Locating Tabs On The Outer Drum Keep The Props Clear of Them.

At This Stage If You Can Get Someone To Hold The Drum With You.

if You Have Access To Something Larger Longer Than The Extension bar Old Car jacking bar Or heavy Tube So that Your Hands Are Clear From The Strike Point

It Will be Better To get Someone To Hold The Drum At This Stage

hammer The Drum Spider At About 5 Shots At A Time In A Continuous Momentum With a Lot Of force.

once Its Released send A Couple Of Pics Of The Drum Spider where The Belt Pulley Shaft at The End of The Spider.

[garn]

Re: Drum bearings advice needed?? Hotpoint wf100 drum and PH

Penguin45 wrote:Re-fit pulley bolt. Use a big hammer to drive shaft through drum. Use said large hammer and a drift (Steel bar) to knock the old bearings out.

I would advise hand and eye protection whilst doing this as a considerable amount of force is required.

Penguin45.

you Just Got There Before Me P 😉

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … +Drum.html

garn

[garn]

Re: Hotpoint TDL11P

All Done Butty
Check Your Email

1x belt tool And A Drum locking tool Saves Bending Saves Your Fingers From That Sharp Alloy also removes The Inner bearing Race.

Garn Solutions 😉

[garn]

Re: Hotpoint TDL11P

Can be A Fiddle Sometimes you can Either get it on Strait Away or end up in A bit Of A sweat.

You Will have to From The side panel Or you may Have To remove The Plastic 4″ vent pipe or Some People try And Force it On
by way of putting it On The motor Shaft And Round The Drum And Lifting The back Panel On . But A That’s Really Bad Move And bad Practice

if Your A handy Guy you Could Knock one Up In About An Hour
all You Need is A bit of Conduit Pipe A Washer That Slides Over The Pipe A hacksaw And A Welder

i Could Send you The Schematics If You Like save You A few bob To

Garn

[garn]

Re: Hotpoint TDL11P

HI BUTTY CANT FIND THE HPT PART NUMBER HEARS ONE FROM CONNECT
Belt fitting/removal tool (5031689741125)

[garn]

Re: Subcontracting-whats a fair price?

lee8 wrote:I have.

Combine that with my own accounts, its not an issue. 🙂

I also don`t have to spend much on advertising as I get calls from clients I`ve visited on contract calls for their other appliances.

Are you poaching There Business Lee given enough Time They Will be Subbing For You 😉

garn…

[garn]

Re: Subcontracting-whats a fair price?

lee8 wrote:No you don`t need a van full of spares. 😉

You`ve not worked for a major company ?

Nobody Would Take me On lee 🙂

[garn]

Re: Subcontracting-whats a fair price?

lee8 wrote:They fiddle the invoices, every call is a 1st fix call.

mmmmmmm Still Don’t quiet get it 😕

So if I went contracting I Wont Need A Van Full of Parts get Paid Every Time I call And Save A packet on Fuel because I dont have A Heavy Load Anymore

Garn

[garn]

Re: Subcontracting-whats a fair price?

pmb wrote:Hi i am interested in hearing other engineers opinions i have been doing occasional days work for a company at £20 a job even if not completed ie needs a part ordering. This includes using my van, diesel and me paying tax. They now want to give me a day every week but want to reduce the price, what do you guys think is a fair price?

❓ If You Have to go back for a part do They give Another £20.00

iv Noticed Rather Large Companies With Subcontractors been Out To Diagnose the Appliance needs A set of Standard Carbons or Even A pump
but They Don’t Carry The Parts On The van.

The customer may have To Wait Another 5 to 8 DAYS before The Engineer Comes back.
Then it may be A Different Engineer And he has the Wrong part :rolls:
And there may be Another 7days Wait .

I Would be Kicking Myself if I Traveled 20 Miles or So And Didn’t have A pump or set of carbons On The Van.
❓ how Do They Make Any££££

Iv been Dying To Ask this Q ❓ for A While just Didn’t Want to get Up somebody’s Nose 🙂

[garn]

Re: connect having a laugh, again

eastlmark wrote:C00199364 thermal fuse for washer driers rrp £4.35
connect price to me £9.39 and suggesting the rrp is £16.89.

qualtex: £3.27.

ps this is a handy part to carry as it will also fit Leisure range cookers (the beko made one thats like 2 cookers bolted together) as the main oven toc as its the same temperature.

masterpart £3.83

[garn]

Re: Domestic Appliance Testing

Specialist01269 wrote:Hey Paul: Where can I buy one of those?, if it can test everything it would save me a packet in test gear & the hassle of lugging it around 😆

Andy

Argos £14.99 😉

[garn]

Re: meggers

Alex Said Earth loop test can be done from an adjacent socket preferrably on the same ring main,

if I m correct if There Are Other Appliances On The Same Ring the best Way Is to isolate The Appliance That your Working On loop test from Another Socket Record Thre Reading. Then re test the loop With the Appliance On.

garn

[Author]

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