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The fault re-ocurred today.
I took the board out and found dampness in the same area, with parts of the PCB tracks now burnt out.
I’ve no idea how water is getting where it is, and it’s not a huge amount either as there are no traces inside the body of the machine or on the floor, but the few drops there are is enough to kill it.
I can’t even figure out where it might be coming from, let alone how its getting in to that part of the mainboard.So today sadly it’s been put out to pasture for the skip fairys, and a new machine purchased.
The motor brushes would be one of my checklist items.
How old is the machine, or how many cycles as it had.
Twice per week for a year, then probably not the brushes.
Half a dozen times per day, every day for a year, then maybe so.I just had a similar issue with an Indesit, which is a totally different beast.
The fault on mine was caused by a small amount of water which had got on to the mainboard, made a short circuit, which in turn popped a fusable resistor.
from what the others are suggesting, I’d say whatever the issue, you’re probably going to have to get down and techy with it.I’ve heard on two occasions from work colleagues that they wouldn’t have another shark cordless vac.
Both said that batteries don’t last and are expensive to replaceWer’e back in action, up and running, already performed a full load.
My tests would indicate that the capcitor was working, but for the small costs involved it wasn’t worth messing about with.
I’m 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} confident that the ‘No Power’ was down to the blown fuseable resistor – R044
Thanks Dave, I don’t think I would have found that if it wasn’t for your intervention.
I’m by no means qualified to offer any professional advise, but i’d be tempted to remove the board, inspect and look for water damage, or maybe a dry/cracked solder joint
I’m going through something similar with an Indesit.I’ve replaced a door lock before now, maybe not on that particular model though.
On the one I had fail, the contacts in the switch had arched and burnt out.Easy enough job to perform, and a switch isn’t overly expensive either.
Make sure the machine is unplugged from the wall.
Remove the two screws (maybe 3) from the rear of the top cover, and with the palm of you hand whallop the top cover off rearwards.
The switch ought to be accessible from the top.If youre an engineering type, you may get away with cleaning the contacts which will give you a few days grace to replace the switch.
I did that already and painted with nail varnish.
There appears to be have been a small amount of water ingress, as the opposite side of the board has lost the green varnish.
I’ll revarnish when the components are replaced.I’m intrugued as to how water got in there though to be honest.
Its at the bottom corner of the board, farthest away from any water source
It’s under a plastic cover.
It doesn’t make much sense.https://ibb.co/6RwtF7K
https://ibb.co/F5mYsK2I’ve drilled a few holes in the plastic cover incase it happens again.
What is intruiging is the Russian site I mentioned earlier has damage in the same area.
https://teron.online/index.php?showtopic=2371572I found a russian site which mentions R044 as 10 ohm 2w.
removed it and found that it’s fused.
https://ibb.co/kmkvFN4I opened up the power board and found something odd at the base of a capacitor.
https://ibb.co/fCvn47V
https://ibb.co/PjL9BkCHas to be worth a try for 30p ???
