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Other than a full blown body panel type person sorting it, new doors will be the only option. I’d hate to think what they’d cost for that unit but it will be extremely painful I’d expect.
K.
Were I too bet…
It’s a very old unit and the insulation has broken down and that’s condensation.
If I am correct, it’s terminal.
K.
Manufacturers don’t always tell the truth…
K.
My best guess, the potentiometer is the problem but, it is guess and to find the correct part or modification I’d need the serial number as there are changes to that one.
The sensor is also a possible as is the board but the latter less likely.
Very hard to diagnose without a bit of skill, equipment and know how.
K.
It sounds like that but, not as simple as you probably thought as that oven is electronic so uses a potentiometer, board and sensor.
Working out which is it will be your problem.
K.
That is not common and probably not an easy one to put right as it’s either a sensor issue or a compressor one.
K.
Best guess, given it went back down in temp after being high, it’s one of the sensors that’s playing up and if I’m correct the temp will go a it wonky again at some stage.
K.
I’d think the air damper was locked closed by the sound of it, it should open and allow cold air to be blown into the fridge when required.
The one used in that model is this one if you need it:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/c00261572-electronic-air-damper-assembly
K.
If it’s heating and not giving an error then it’s a bit of a puzzler as even if the pump were not working you’d expect it to error out.
My advice would be to get into it and see if there’s any sort of blockage to or from the pump before you do anything. I think on this one, you’re only going to work it out by looking and trying to figure it out.
K.
