leavemetogetonwithit

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  • in reply to: Zanussi ZWD12270W #397137

    Re: Zanussi ZWD12270W

    If it isn’t that, I’d megger the motor on its own or disconnect it and try. It sounds like it stops at the moment when the motor kicks in.
    What happens when you try it on spin?
    Mike.

    in reply to: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare. #396778

    Re: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare.

    iadom wrote:
    If you have ever been to Wigan you will believe it, the women there are truly frightening . :eeek:

    Next time anyone tries to coax me into working on one of these, I’ll tell them they need to find a Wiganite female for the job.

    boselecta wrote:The trouble seems to be if the metal lip is open too much the seal just falls off when halfway on but if its too tight you cant slide it on.

    Yes, indeed. Also if you’re using pliers to do the crimping, the main part of the seal gets right in your way. I noticed the original had holes in the part of the seal above the original crimps. I think they must have a machine which “fires” a row of punches along the length, going through part of the rubber to hit the flange just right. Probably gets through 30 doors a minute. Faster than screws or rivets so saves money on time as well as materials. Then there’s the advantage that it’s 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} likely to end up scrapped if it starts to leak after a year or two. It’s a brilliant business model.
    Mike.

    in reply to: Belling XOU177 oven #370509

    Re: Belling XOU177 oven

    Same problem, this time it’s for a Belling 640 or 643.
    This thread’s well over a year old so it’s probably even more obsolete now.
    The thing is just a two terminal job that sits on the back of the selector switch as far as I can see from the diagram on Connect. It’ll need a longish capillary as it’s a double oven and this is for the main oven. The original goes from 0 – 230 C
    in 270 degrees turn – clockwise. They’re always clockwise, aren’t they? Must be some sort of universal type that’ll do the job. ?????
    Mike.
    PS: from Connect description, original would be EGO 55 19052 836

    in reply to: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare. #396775

    Re: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare.

    Well, I failed on this one. I spent the three hours in total but could not manage to get the seal to stay in place. So another Matsui probably returns to China to be recycled into some toxic waste and another dishwasher. I’m holding my breath hoping they do better with the re-incarnation.
    Mike.

    in reply to: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare. #396774

    Re: Matsui MS160SL dishwasher bottom door seal nightmare.

    Funny thing is I had a look online before buying the seal and found one or two reviews from people who’d bought the part before. Most said it was easy / fairly easy. One said it was very difficult and they had to take the door off. I didn’t set too much store by that last one; thought he must have made a mistake.
    Just now I looked again online, couldn’t find the ones I found before but Espares have quite an amusing three reviews:
    http://www.espares.co.uk/product/es1560533/dishwasher-door-seal?ApplianceTypeId=1083&ManufacturerId=1103

    Anonymous, Wigan, Lancs wrote:Fairly difficult to fit – undo 2 screw at side, slide door forward, use washing up liquid on rubber seal and slide from the side onto base of door so that seal is clipped onto the bent metal. When on just replace screws (I took four off but only managed to get 2 back on). All working ok just need to find seal for around rest of door now!Quite pleased as am 60 year old female novice.

    😯 They are tough up there in Iadom land!
    Makes you wonder about these reviews 👿 .
    The other two were much more believable.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    But why wouldn’t it shave both brushes the same?
    Mike.

    in reply to: Hotpoint WML560, weird fault??? #394992

    Re: Hotpoint WML560, weird fault???

    Had a WF series machine with ACC brush motor (IIRC) which had an intermittent tripping problem on spin. Turned out one of the motor wires was shorting to the motor end bracket where the wires entered through a rounded opening in the bracket. Have had same on a Hoover w/mc motor though in that case the motor plug socket had come unclipped from its bracket, causing movement and consequent chafing of the wires.
    Mike.

    in reply to: Bosch WFL 2260 #395702

    Re: Bosch WFL 2260

    I think the door only locks when you press start, doesn’t it? Then the lights change. So I’m suggesting maybe lock is at fault.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    Jag, I don’t think it can be about direction for the reason already stated. Anyway, all machines rotate much more in the spin direction, whether or not customer chooses, don’t they?
    It’s kind of strange, when you think about it, how little we all know about washing machines.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    George, that’s kind of how I was thinking at first when I suggested it might be going in one direction only. But thinking on it more that makes no sense because both brushes should meet exactly the same situation with your raised segment.
    I wonder if somehow the worn brush has been subject to greater spring pressure by the spring catching on an imperfection in the brush holder instead of extending evenly up the “tube”.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    eastlmark wrote:


    I think, and most would agree, you already checked the harness at the motor end and confirmed it as ok.
    I didn’t check it thoroughly until I had done all those other futile checks. I had prodded the area with a stick (power on, belt off) but that had not made it kick into life so I had assumed it was OK.

    eastlmark wrote:
    As for a wire breaking causing the motor to turn in one direction? That cannot surely be the case (can it?) as, afaik, direction is reveresed by changing polarity of either the armature or field coils, hence a broken wire could only possibly give no motor action, wouldnt it?
    Good post though, if only more of us had the time to mess around so much!

    Probably right about direction change. It’s the eight wires that made me think there might be more coils I suppose, but two are probably to the toc(?) Anyway, thinking about it further, I can’t really see any reason why unidirectional operation should wear down one brush more quickly. Must have just had my sleeping cap on when I thought that one up.
    Messing around is what I do best.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    I don’t think you read the whole thread, Mark.
    Anyway, congratulations to Graham. No prizes, as success is its own reward 😆 .
    What I was looking for was for someone to spot that the broken earth wire to the heater and the connector pulled off the ntc were pointers to a machine that had been jumping around. (“Oh yeah,” said customer, “it had been doing that for some time – I knew I should have adjusted the feet.”)
    Also the one brush worn down twice as much as the other could indicate that one of the wires broke a long time ago and the motor had been running in one direction only(?)
    Bosch motor on a Servis. Yes, I’ve seen that a few times. I wouldn’t wonder they might be factory rejects?
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    George, I asked,
    “Wonder if you can guess what the problem was and find the evidence that pointed to it?”
    Where is there any evidence in my first post that points to a, “defective pressure switch, defective heater.” ?
    There isn’t any. So that leaves the other three you mentioned.
    Thinking about what causes those faults you might be able to figure out what connection I missed making when I made my first approach to the machine. A mental connection that would have saved me an hour or more of faffing about.
    One thing in my defence: the machine had already been pulled out before I got there so it was only when I was talking with the customer (about the job) after I had finished that the real cause came to light.

    Ah, so Graham has got there.
    It was actually 2 wires broken at the insulation displacement point of the motor plug. Only found them by continuity checking the loom.
    When I carefully cut the plug open about four wires came away and 2 more were weakened. So I had to re-fit them all and keep them in their rightful places (not at all obvious.)
    So the evidence was….
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    Yes, of course, I always keep a spare Servis Bosch motor and selection of Servis boards in my bag 😆 .
    Here’s a huge clue. Had I replaced both, the fault would still have been there.
    Mike.

    Re: Spot the difference. Or one of them. Simple pcb repair?

    Sorry George, not this time.
    Dave was on the ball when he said,

    electrofix wrote:
    you would have to trace motor circuitry

    Dave
    Which I did. But what did I find? The clues (textual, not pictorial) were there in my opening post (together with a few red herrings, not intentional you understand) but I didn’t make the connections at the time. I’m wondering if I’ve made this too difficult. It’s nothing excitingly different from what commonly happens (though we don’t always find it) and I have very probably BER’d a good few machines in the past for not keeping clear and logical when times get tough.
    Mike.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 3,974 total)