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Re: Candy CDI1012 Dishwasher – Module?
TECHNICAL NOTE N. 006 LS – 11/17/2004
SUBJECT: Totally integrated electronically controlled “Easy” range built-in
washing machines: the washing cycle hangs.
We’re experiencing on the field many unnecessary replacement of “EASY” type
electronic modules (see Note n. 004ls04 – 05/03/04). This is mainly happening
on the totally integrated appliances (I.e. CDI1012 – CDI2012 – CDI2015 –
CDI3015 – HFI3015).
The Customer complains that the washing cycle hangs up, being the cycle LED
lighted fixed. No reset operation at this point is possible.
This trouble may be mainly due to:
1. the washing cycle is not yet ended.
2. a wrong operation was carried out, to cancel the washing cycle.
1st CASE: THE WASHING CYCLE IS NOT YET ENDED.
This trouble happens often in the end phase of drying, being the machine silent.
The customers thinks the cycle is ended (since these appliances are not supplied
with an acoustic alarm) and tries to set and start a new washing cycle. Starting a
new cycle while the previous is not yet finished, may cause the machine to hang.
Being this the situation, best is to close the door and wait for the cycle to be
ended. Otherwise, reset the machine, by carefully carrying out the following
sequence of operations:
· Open the door of the dishwasher.
· Push and hold the button of the current washing cycle, for 3 seconds.
· All program’s LEDs will flash simultaneously (RAPID 32′ excluded).
· Close the door of the dishwasher and wait for the end of the phase of drain.
WARNING!
If the dishwasher’s tank is already empty from water, therefore
there’s no need to carry out a drain phase, please wait the same at
least 10 seconds, before re-opening the door.
ã 2004 2
· Re-open the door of the dishwasher.
· Now, the LED of the “favorite” washing cycle is flashing. You can confirm it,
choose a different one or switch OFF the machine.
2nd CASE: ERROR WHILE CANCELING THE CURRENT WASHING CYCLE:
The machine hangs if the previously described procedure is interrupted, by
switching the machine OFF while the program’s LEDs are flashing.
If the machine is switched OFF while the 3 program’s LEDs are flashing, once it’s
switched ON again it will be blocked: the LED of the last carried out washing
cycle will be ON fixed and no reset operation is possible.
In such a case (program’s LED is ON fixed), simply close the door of the
dishwasher and wait for 10 seconds at least, before re-opening it.
Once the door is re-opened, the only LED of the washing program which was set
at least 3 times in sequence (a favorite one) will be flashing. This means the
dishwasher is ready to carry out a new washing cycle, or to be switched OFF.
The trouble described in the present Note may be created on the correspondent
free-standing appliances too, but it’s less frequent, since on these products it’s
not necessary to open the door to look at the LEDs.
Best regards.
GIAS S.r.l.
3 MODULES ON THIS VERSION41008097 Electronic module
41016113 Electronic module
41012534 Program electronic moduleHope this helps
Re: hotpoint wf860
f05 is pressue switch jammed on full check pump for blockages
change pressure switch , iff that does not do it ,pcb has goneRe: servis larder fridge
cornflakes wrote:recently visited servis larder fridge
cabinet freezing up on rear
replaced control stat with gen spare from service
problem not solved..unit still freezing up
any ideas
welcome
regards
Graham
Is it freezing up the hole of the back wall of the cabinet or just part of it
Iff its not freezing all the way across , low on gas or weak compressor
possible blokedge hope this helps loopeyYes they are part of the console module and they can be changed iff you are confident at board level,
components , and at soldering .ctd00 . dont change the the surpport wheels use the old style pads there is a place to fit them this
will make it alot smoother and quieter discared
the wheels it was a crap idear loopyRe: car air-con
Hi guys there is only 2 adapters you will need one for the low side and one for the high side , some cars have both ,some have just one, they
look the same but are a different size , most cars have one usually on
the low pressure side , thats the smaller of the two , you can vac and
gas up from either .. About changing the oil ,i have done hundreds of cars
and have never had to change the oil once .
Leaks .. Well most aircon leaks can be found with your TORR gauge when vacking out iff you use one .. or let some 134a into the sytem and
listen for the leak , most leaks you will find on the condenser (radiator)
connectors , Bad or brocken O rings on the connectors also check the
pump for loose connectors (these are special O rings and are green in
colour ) replace with ones from the manufacture.
Most modern cars have a pressure switch , a 2 wire or 4 wire,stops the
pump running when there is no gas or not enough . please , please dont
try to short them out to make the pump run ,.. there are only two wires to
the pump some times only one just take a live + from the battery and
connect to either wire, one will ark( wrong one) , one will make the pump
run , pot luck ..Once you have found your leak (some times i never have ) vac out , 15 mins should do it . the air con rating plate will tell you how much gas to
put in , open up the valve and let the gas in , Ok this is were it gets a bit tricky , it will stop taking gas after about 200 grms or slow down . Start
the engine ( iff you have a TORR gauge please close it , or its toast.)
watch your gauges they will go up at first , they should start to come
down and the gas will start to go in again , untill you have put the write
amount of gas in , iff they go up and dont start to come down , you have a
blockedge , or the pump is worn out , most gauges have a site glass so
you can tell iff its taking gas in .Iff you find that the pump is going on and off , the system is just trying to
balance it self , this will fix it self over a bit of time or you have over gased it .I hope this helps any one that wants to have a go its easy peasy
tonyclifton . well i have never come across a car with r600. my car is
05 and it has 134aps, adapters cost about £45 + vat its a good side line so charge accordingly
loopy :wink:……… iff you need any help ,pm me, phil
and a big thankyou Penguin45 for your pm
Re: Hotpoint wf range all
iadom wrote:Not sure I understand or follow all of your post 😉
Is it one machine or all of them ? Is there no reason for the modules to fail or is there a leak?
Machine would appear to be out of guarantee but still well under Hotpoint’s five year parts guarantee.
When you mention ‘transit bolts’ and ‘test bay’ does that mean that you have uplifted this machine and damaged the drum in so doing? If it is over 12 months old then surely if the transit bolts had been left in it would have been noticed by now. ❓ These modules fail for fun without any help from ‘robust’ handling.
I have never, ever uplifted a machine in over 37 years and to be honest can see no good reason to do so, and I have heard all the arguments about ” I can run it on test” etc. The only proper place to test the appliance is in the exact environment that it is being used in.
What is the exact model number and fault code?
Well most people understand my post and , And a little bit of water
coming from a hole , above the module , witch was the From the
TRANSIT bolts in the drum , when removed , that had made a hole
in the outer drum . how simple can that be .I am a member of many forums also being a mod and admin
regards loopey i do apolagise for spelling and grammer , being dislexic
sucks ass big time philRe: Hotpoint wf range all
Even from new iff the transit bolts have been screwed in to far , it leaks from the transit bolt holes , small leak, some times does not show up at
all. No we dont uplift m/c we buy a lot of raw hotpoints , to rework , recon
ect. Have seen this fault numeros times on the wf range ,fault codes to
many to mention. loopey
