[myfil]

Re: Bosch WFO2864 washer aborting pgm after 2 mins.

Changing the NTC fixed the problem.

On close inspection one of the two NTC contacts had been contaminated with what looked like neat liquid detergent. Also the plug. I changed the NTC and scrubbed the plug in hot water, then dried it and dowsed it in WD40 (equivalent stuff). Then cleaned the contacts with a small emery board. As this is a low voltage connection, clean contacts are important.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

[myfil]

Re: Bosch WFO2864 washer aborting pgm after 2 mins.

More data from customer:

-She set machine on 40 degree wash (cottons), started it
-wash light on, correct pgm duration showing in display, all OK
-carried on OK for about one minute
-duration display went blank, machine pumped out
-display came up “0”. Wash light out. Door unlocks
-“0” still showing. No lights on.

Does this shed any light?

Mike

[myfil]

Re: Bosch WFO2864 washer aborting pgm after 2 mins.

Did not replace the NTC as I did not have one to hand.

Re which light/s showing at end – I’ll check that with customer for current data – I’m trying to recall, but I think when I worked on it, it was a red end-of-pgm LED.
I’ll get back to you on that.

Mike

[myfil]

Re: Fault Codes on AEG Lavamat 74335

Just noticed I never wrapped up this topic!

Yes it was the analogic pressure switch.

Another happy ending thanks to you guys and Whitegoods forum!!

Mike

[myfil]

Re: Hotpoint BF162 DW aborting program

You were all right, as usual!

The heater is open circuit.

Many thanks
Mike

[myfil]

Re: Hotpoint BF162 DW aborting program

Thanks for your help on this folks.

Sorry if I sound dim, but why would a heater fault cause the machine (after filling) to suddenly abort the pgm and pump out?

I’d have thought this would just be the preparatory rinse, and the heater not in circuit yet.

(Does 2nd light flashing indicate a code, or is it just end-of-pgm?)

Cheers
Mike

[myfil]

Re: Smeg DWI612C D/W pump spasms

Thanks for all the help guys.

Went back to the machine and the detergent solenoid coil was almost O/C and arcing on the Megger test. Swopped it temporarily for a bog-standard water valve. The machine then started up fine and started running OK through a pgm, but the indicator lights were all wrong – 5 stayed on and 1 and 4 flashing=no known error code! Couldn’t alter this.

So we have a new PCB and detergent coil on order.

How the hell a dispenser coil can cause such a weird fault and nuke the PCB is something for future sages (and Chinese PCB designers) to ponder…….

Cheers.

[myfil]

Re: Diplomat 8702 W/D – dead

Thanks guys
Ordered recon board from EMW
Will let you know what ‘appens

[myfil]

Re: Bottom Seal on BRANDT D/W

TELL wrote:just seen your dilema on forum, usually the seals are fitted on the front lip of the container, so as the door closes it compresses down onto the cabinet.
TELL..

Thanks for reply Tell, but I just wanted to clarify here… nearlyall the D/Ws I’ve ever worked on have the bottom seal attached to the base of the inner door panel. Does this (Brandt) one actually clip to the front edge of the water pan rather than the door panel (I’m doing this job this afternoon)?

Cheers.

[myfil]

Re: Bottom Seal on BRANDT D/W

iadom wrote:A split in the bottom spray arm is a very common cause of this fault, the water floods out.

Interesting – could be I failed to spot this, although I looked pretty closely.

Do you know how this bottom seal fits on (I have to fit it regardless)?

Cheers

[myfil]

Re: NEFF D/W S4453NOGB/07 Low Heat

Martin wrote:…..and accessing the NTC on the instantaneous water heater is a fairly simple task. See my post on an earlier thread…… 😉

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ic&t=13836

Thanks Martin – seems clear enough, but forgive my hignorance, what is the water matrix?
Is there a (Bosch or Neff) service manual knocking around that might be similar to this model?
(one is mentioned on the above thread)
Mike

[myfil]

Re: NEFF D/W S4453NOGB/07 Low Heat

gegsy wrote:What is the wash force through spray arms like? Does the heater microswitch stay closed during recirculation?Check your socket and plugtop for any damage?

Greg

Wash force seems OK. But I would have thought the program would not advance until the correct temperature was reached at the NTC sensor?? Would not a fault with the above hang the pgm on wash?

Mike

[myfil]

Re: Bosch D/W Test Procedure Enr SGS5312GB

I know on the SGS5302 (and others) that if you power up whilst holding down 1 and 3 buttons (lights will flash) and then press these buttons again it will run thro a test pgm of all functions and if any errors it will end the test pgm with a number on the display – I think the famous burned-out heater relay connection (on the board) was a number one.

I have lost my original notes on this, given to me by BSH when they were helpful (unlike now, when they refuse to talk to you, quoting “health and safety dirrectives” – bah humbug!!)

I remember that having both rinsaid and salt warning lights on (both items have been refilled BTW) was a fault indication…

The machine will not start (can’t even hear it open the water valve, and the water supply is OK).

myfil

[myfil]

Re: Wiring a Hob and oven

It is dangerous to under-rate the cable. See tables below which I hope may help. To calculate the amps divide the (total)Watts on the rating plate by 230 (i.e. the voltage). So 6KW is 6000 watts, divided by 230 gives a tad over 26 amps.

Some single ovens (not all) can be wired with 2.5mm flex (heatproof preferably) or flat cable because they take under 3KW in power consumption.

I rewired many houses including kitchens and always used 6mm as a standard for convenience.
Coming out of the 45-amp Cooker Switch on the wall, you can go into a 30 or 40 amp round junction box firmly attached to wall or cupboard, and split out into hob and oven seperately, or you can go into one appliance and then loop out to the second. Most commonly I have looped into the hob, and then out to the oven, but sometimes there is more room for the two cables in the oven.

Note that the fuse in the consumer unit (fusebox) must be lower in rating (amps) than the thinnest cable used. A 30 amp fuse will not stop a 2.5mm cable from melting or catching fire if you run 30 amps continuously thro it! That is why some single ovens wired with only 2.5mm flex should have a 13-amp fused plug on the end and plug into a standard wall socket.

————————————————–
Table 1 = Method 4 Encased in insulated wall
Cable size Rating in Amps

2.5mm 18.5
4.00mm 25
6.00mm 32
10.00mm 43

Table 2 = Method 1 Clipped Direct
Cable size Rating in Amps

2.5mm 27
4mm 36
6mm 46
10mm 63
——————————————
I hope this helps (I cannot of course be held responsible for the accuracy of the above…etc.etc)

Mike

[myfil]

Re: Fault Codes on AEG Lavamat 74335

I have checked all motor components and all readings are OK and nothing down to earth (tested with a Megger)

I’m going with the analogic (induction) pressure switch, I’ve ordered one. and I’ll let you know Friday!! Fingers crossed!

[Author]

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