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September 7, 2008 at 11:34 am in reply to: Hotpoint BFI62 Integ Dishwasher – Help! Dead Button. #261903
myfil
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BFI62 Integ Dishwasher – Help! Dead Button.
Assuming the PCB is OK does anyone know of a fault scenario where the P button would not function? The machine started the test Pgm, filled and started to wash, when I fitted the new PCB. The P button should them interrupt the pgm if held down for several seconds. It does not – it does nothing, just like on the previous PCB. The door, when opened, stops the wash action, as it should, so door switch seems OK.
Any ideas guys?September 6, 2008 at 6:32 pm in reply to: Hotpoint BFI62 Integ Dishwasher – Help! Dead Button. #261901myfil
ParticipantRe: Hotpoint BFI62 Integ Dishwasher – Help! Dead Button.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Jim, it does enter the test pgm (2 lights on and starts to fill, etc) but it is the P button that does not function, that is the problem. Yes please if you can email me the wiring diagram.
I will also check the door micro as Graham suggests
The customer tells me the original fault was the P button not working (before he broke the machine physically) so it would seem unlikely that 2 PCBs would have the same fault.
Regards
Mikemyfil
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZWF1431S showing E80
It turned out the coil on the (Askoll magpump) Recirc Pump was open circuit. Replaced the pump and that sorted it – so I guess E80 on those machines shows an OC recirc pump.
Cheers 😆
myfil
ParticipantRe: SAMSUNG Washer Q1435VGW no motor action
WoW! All totally clear!! Well, I got the first line anyway! I guess “dehydrating” is a cool word for “the spin cycle”. Guess I can use that –
“Well madam, the problem is that during the dehydrating cycle the carbon-compound inserts ceased to maintain adequate interface with the multi-segment armature interface….” (brush change)
Anyway, thanks Bryan, and hope you hear something back from said tech dept. Much appreciated. 😀
If you know a well stocked supplier let me know.
June 9, 2008 at 7:24 pm in reply to: Zanussi ZCE7700X cooker – Help needed with Clock wiring diag #253734myfil
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZCE7700X cooker – Help needed with Clock wiring
Thanks Brian, but I need a diagram of the actual timer and what colour wire goes where.
Specifically, there are six leads: two for each relay (top oven, bottom oven) plus two for Live and Neutral. It is these last two that give me the problem. Which way round?? Fifty percent chance here of destroying an expensive new timer! No markings on the timer, just two tags, beside each other.
Hoping someone can help here, otherwise I shall just have to gamble… 😥
June 4, 2008 at 12:47 pm in reply to: Zanussi ZCE7700X cooker – Help needed with Clock wiring diag #253732myfil
ParticipantRe: Zanussi ZCE7700X cooker – Help needed with Clock wiring
Hi Brian
Cheers
myfil
ParticipantRe: AEG D/W F50750 Won’t Heat
Yes, twas indeed the heater relay connection on the PCB all burned and open circuit. Did my usual: scrape everything shiny-clean, wrap and solder a tiny bit of 15-amp fuse wire arounf the relay post, and solder the other end of the wire to the PCB track, no chance thereby of the fault happening again (one hopes!).
Done loads of these on the older Bosch DWs, same fault, except it hangs up the program endlessly on those.
Thanks Jim and Steve.
What would we do without W/Goods?myfil
ParticipantRe: Hoover AA230 washer won’t spin after new carbons
Thanks for all the input on this. (I did megger the htr – always do)
Turned out we fitted a duff set of carbons – they looked perfect but the megger said the motor was almost down to earth when I checked today. The armature was fine, it was the new brushes.
This apparently blew the module. Fitted new brushes (and meggered them this time!) and a new module (presumably the triac had gone. Relay terminals were fine) and all working perfickly now.
Cheers guys.
myfil
ParticipantRe: T/Bendix AW1000W won’t heat – timer?
Thanks Steve
Tomorrow will tell!!
myfil
ParticipantRe: Bosch D/W SGS43E08GB (S9G1B) strip down
Wow, thanks Martin, that was fast!
Can’t wait to get down to it. Piece of pee, eh??
Still you are right, I am doing more and more Bosch stuff, and it is a good earner. (It’s a shame BSH have just f****d up a very good web site for getting spares and diagrams….)
Regards
Mikemyfil
ParticipantRe: Bosch Washer WFO2466 problem – no activity
Thanks for the reply Gegsy
Wouldn’t a drain pump fault give an error code on the display?
Also it stopped when full of water, so when reset and put on a wash pgm I expected it to carry on washing (drum agitation) no?? But it did……….nothing.
Myfil
myfil
ParticipantRe: Motor for Lavamat 625 wanted
Thanks Baron
Question: are the mountings (lugs) in the same position on the newer motors?
Also, another route to go would be to change the motor bearings. I’ve never tried this on an AEG motor because it’s usually the armature that fails (I’ve found a simple brush change almost never works). Has anyone out there done a bearings change on a lavamat motor?
myfil
ParticipantRe: AEG Washer L10500V1 dying display
Removed front panel PCB, cleaned all connectors, cleaned selector switch. No change.
Removed the module (top, right hand side) which is an EWM 2000 EVO. Lo, clear signs of a blow-out. Looks like one of the tiny resistors has vaporised.
So it’s a new module, which (it says) is pre-configured. I hope they are right!
Myfil
myfil
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool D/W ADG7540/i No voltage at heater
Twas the NTC indeedo.
Old one measured 5.5K
New one measured 42K. (Should have been above 50K but I had it in my pocket!)Curious how they just change values like that, but the earlier thread (see above, thanks Spanner) was spot on.
Customer happy, engineer happy (me), UKW wins again!
myfil
myfil
ParticipantRe: Whirlpool D/W ADG7540/i No voltage at heater
Thanks. Good thread.
Maybe a sad question, but where is the NTC to be found?Mike
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