Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Re: Smeg A42 Range
Hi, a bugger is this one 👿 👿 Try megering out all components when oven has been on for a while :rolls: Phone customer when you know you are on your way so she can put oven on so its hot when you get there. The only bugger here is getting it out whilst hot 😕 😕
Only a thought. All the best with this.
Dave
Re: Bosch Dishwasher
Hi Alanj, I had something similar earlier this year. I found it to be the pressure unit on the left hand side of the machine with the side panel removed. You need to remove this unit, strip down, flush out all gunk, ensure the orange float is clean, refit unit and test. If you are not sure this is the fault, remove left side panel and place machine on test and check the water flows through without restriction, if water appears to spill or there is a scale type crudge about the area you know that is the problem. I found once I had cleaned out this unit the problem disappeared. While you are at this area, remove the hose pipe from this unit to the sump of machine and flush through, sometimes crudge builds up in the pipe and this prevents and efficient fill and can be a cause of back fill. Let us know how you get on OK.
Dave
Re: September 2007 Meeting
I will be coming if that is OK 8) I will aim to be there about tennish. Cant stay over tho, being worked off my @@@@@@ at present.
Dave
Re: Kitchenfitters tricks!
Nice one Richard, I would have insisted the installer to refit, this like your avatar (flying pink pigs).
Installers do not like having to remove thier professionaly fitted! appliances, likewise refitting them either. Now I wonder why!!!!!!!!!
Oldtog (dave)
One final check just to make sure. remove the wires from the relay on the pcb and short together, switch power back on, and set up the fan oven and stat, check voltage at the element. If there is voltage there you know for sure that is the problem.
All the best.
OT
Hi, have you had the back off the range. If so was there a circuit board near the mains in block, if there is then it most probably is that. A simple test ok, with the back off have the oven on (any temp will do), with your volt meter first check power to the fan motor (just to check voltage) then check the power to the fan element, if no power it most probably that control pcb. On some of these models they have been sneaky and put this pcb in, power from the stat to a relay on the board and power through relay to heater, similar to the SUK 91 series.
Oh, just another thought, this is a multifunction oven, ie you can select the grill and us it as a conventional oven using top and lower elements. Select the equals sign =, this selects top and lower element, turn stat on and check if the top element becomes hot, if so it may be the selector switch burnt out, can happen, maybe be best to check that first.
Is the timer an oblong one or a dial?, if it’s the oblong one then you can remove the facia, then remove two securing screws on the right & left side (you will notice one by the timer, the other is opposite. You can lift the hob like a car hood, bring down two stays one on each side of the hob and you will notice a V shape at the end of the stays, these stays are located into the box hole for stability. However if you have the dial one (oh dear) you need to remove the rear, you will find two screws holding the top on either side (heads facing towards the back panel) again on opposite sides, these have to be removed prior to the above procedure otherwise you WILL damage the hob, be very, very careful how you lift the hob, the rear may well want to come out of their sockets. This is not for the faint hearted
I hope this helps ROBWASH.OT
I am fed up with covering for these so called professional fitters, be they kitchen fitters or builders. I now ask the customer to call these trades persons ❓ back to remove there bodges. One recently acualy said “the engineer is trained to remove these built in dishwashers” and said to my ear (on the phone) when I said about reading the installation instructions “the manufactures dont know what their on about” also, “we do it the same as every one else” they must be sheep, BAAA.
These fitters??? or whatever they call themselves nowaday’s (fitter bodgit and co 😈 ) do not like having to return at all to remove any appliance even a hood. I explained to one FB&C it needed two persons to remove a very large hood, he said MFI would have to pay him to return to remove said hood. The customer could wait no more, so they went into MFI and complained, MFI contacted the chap and he sent one person to remove the hood and it promptly fell on him ouch. This customer had to wait over six weeks for that, now I expect another six to refit. I could go on like many of you out there. I recon we all should stop covering up there mistakes and they should remove the appliance (especialy under the gt period).
Rant over.
OTRe: Smeg DW1612C…ser. 00504502
Lawrence this is true 😀 , however this normally causes the machine to give a spurt of life then stops, and continues like this until switched off 😕 . I have not found this coil to give a display fault though. However I have been wrong in the past and no doubt I’ll be wrong again 😳 .
OldtogYour welcome Derek,
E-mail me with the details of where you purchased the relay + part number and price. I may buy a one or two, I don’t change many out of GT but it will make the difference of a completed job or not.
Oldtog
EASTLMARK, I think that was uncalled for and not a sort of reply I would expect from you. Now if you was saying that to me I would understand it, I am a bit thick, but I put that down to my being a ripe ol age of @@@@@.
Any one who repairs a pcb down to component level has my respect anyday.
Oldtog
Derek, if you have to take the price offered by mdeang. This is the best you will get, providing your customer goes ahead. SMEG in geneal are a better product (I am biased though) than a lot of other makes. However you said they are @@@@@ m/c’s, remember we make our living on appliances that fail, we do not see the ones that dont.
Ken,
They changed the air-break from the side of the salt pot which can back fill from the m/c sump with waste gunk. It now fills via the top of the salt unit so no back fill occurs. The pressure switch is no longer attached to the air-break, it is fed from the base sump via a long tube that is attached to the r/h/s of m/c and comes back to the pressure switch, again to prevent gunk from entering the switch. The problem now on occasions is when m/c fills within a few mins it drains then fills etc; if the door is opened quick enough you would find the water level above part the lower spray arm. Should this happen the timer and pressure switch need replacing.Hi P45 long time no sqeek (sorry) anyway Derek, timer about £120
Oldtog
