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Ray,
Find the one with the triacs on it (little black rectangles with 3 legs) – that’ll be the one.
Chris the Penguin.NASA buys what we don’t drink to use as rocket propellant………
Let us know how you get on,
Regards,
Penguin45.Well said, Maxie. The manufacturers take damn all notice of what the independent service industry say about their products (which is part of the reason that this site exists), so it comes down to the public voting with their feet to make a real difference.
It is to be hoped that some of these forums are read by the manufacturers and their representatives, and by the “dripping tap” method, some of these complaints will get acted upon.
Best regards,
Penguin45.Joey,
the water in the undertray may well be from backing up in the fill matrix – because the hose was blocked.If you look in the Directories section for your postcode area you may well find a local UKW engineer, either that or stick it up in here and someone will pick up on it.
Glad to be of help, enjoy the party.
Regards,
Penguin 45.Joe,
This is a 12 year old machine and the thread you have read is not directly relevant to your appliance.
Most likely cause of your problem IS a blockage in an internal transfer hose. You need to remove the undertray (if fitted) and the left hand (from the front) side panel. There is a large plastic matrix on the left side, and a black hose coming off the bottom of it, running to the centre underside of the sump moulding. This is a so and so for sludging up and preventing proper filling. Remove and clean. It can also activate the pressure shut off on the inlet valve.Other possibilities are inlet valve failure and broken wires in the door panel.
PULL THE PLUG BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!
Regards,
Penguin45.If we are talking about the 2 large white “ballast” resistors on the 546 type digital control board these should be a suitable replacement.
Penguin45.
Whoa chaps!
There are any number of reasons why the machine may not spin! These range from dodgy pressure switches (water level control) – maybe blocked or faulty switch, choked filters, earth leakage from heater (Oh yes..), inappropriate operation of out of balance circuitry, faulty motors – the list goes on.
Having read the thread, we appear to be looking at water damage. Water damage usually means a board replacement. If the ballast resistors have failed all that will happen is that the door will lock (timer function – not digiboard) and nothing else.
If you can eliminate all other components, the board will be the culprit, and I suggest you contact EMW in the directories with the 546 no. for an exchange replacement.
All of this is pointless if you don’t find the leak!
Whatever you get up to, pull the plug first……..
Unfortunately what kwatt said about you get what you pay for is especially true with regard to these machines. They just don’t any cheaper (apart from Indesit – which oddly enough come from the same parent company)!
Next time, spend the extra £50 and buy a Bosch! It’s worth it.
Regards,
Penguin45Hey Mark,
I’m 5’4″ and 9 stone – I don’t DO flippering…..If you drain the baffles off first, there’s very little water left and upside down works for me! It all finishes up at a nice hieght (for a short arse with a bad back) to work on.
Besides I can never get the sump seal to reseal properly if I take the cavity off the base. For my sins, the first one I did that way got written off after 3 hours as it would bloody NOT reseal. If you know a trick for this one, do tell! ‘Cos I tried, and I tried and I tried and I tried – I didn’t get no – satisfaction
I can feel the involuntary tic starting again……
Regards,
Chris the Penguin.There used to an outfit called TKB over Cradley Heath way – no idea if they’re still going.
Chris the Penguin.
Answered the phone today – big mistake. Dour Yorkie says “Come and fix t’washer”
“Make and model” says I.
“Don’t know – it’s a white one” comes the reply.
By this point, Mrs P is laughing her socks off – she does this all day.
“What sort of car have you got, just out of interest?” I said.
“2000 Ford Focus GLS 1800” he says.
“Sports pack?”
“No, but I took the aircon and electric pack” he says.“Phone me back when you’ve got the same info on the washer,” I said.
AND – he DID!
Regards,
Chris the Penguin.Hi PF1,
Leakage for the front can very often be cured by giving the lower seal a damn good clean!From your description, I assume you have removed the door outer panel. Things to check –
1) Is the lower seal lying flat across the bottom, or is it creased and rucked? If the latter, it may well leak at the corners.
2) Check the dispenser – these can be so and so’s for leaking around the edge.The seal is a push on fit, but if I recall the replacement is slightly different (a typical company case of “We know it’s wrong, but we’re not going to tell you ’til it does go wrong”).
Check the model number though – I can’t make SHS register. Look on the top edge of the door inner panel or around the inner casing at the top.
Dave can probably give you prices in the morning if you can check the numbers.
Regards,
Penguin45.
