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Re: Hoover washer agitator action

I found what I assume to be the brake solenoid and this has a pull rod that activates a lever which appears to do more than one job. Above the planetary gear casing there is a plastic ring gear and the lever moves a plastic arm the tip of which usually meshes with the plastic ring gear (ratchet motion?) but the end of the plastic arm is broken so what appears to be a “ratchet” motion (one way movement) is not possible, the ring gear can move freely. Is this broken part going to cause the agitator to move clockwise only????? Question

This is definately going to be the cause of the problem. The part you need is called a brake arm.

As to the amount of oil, there is not much in these when new and most I have seen have leaked some out, generally any leaked oil will be thrown out while spinning and would leave a stain around the inside of the cabinet.

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Re: Ferraris

So does that mean the pump works and the car is no longer required 🙂

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Re: Hoover washer agitator action

The common causes of that problem are:

Burnt out brake solenoid
Gearbox faulty

Power off before investigating this as some of these parts aren’t earthed

This is generally caused by a faulty brake solenoid or a faulty gearbox. If the brake solenoid is faulty (generally burnt out and stuck in one position) then it can be worth the repair (part is ~$60). If the gearbox has failed then the machine is scrapmetal as the cost to fit a gearbox is generally $300-$400

Less likely is a problem with the motor controller, but that would not normally make a loud hum, but rather just sit quietly between agitations.

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Re: Difference between LG WT-H555TH & WF-T552TH washers

I’d have to agree with bigpipesmoker on all points.

In Australia, LG would have to be the best value ($ spent / wash) top loader with good backup. LG have recently increased their rates for warranty work from below average to slightly over average, and their parts backup is among the best, and spares pricing beats locally made stuff. Quality is as good as local stuff and IMHO far better than the NZ machines.

A good front loader (Miele, AEG) would be a far better machine, but a LG top loader is better than a cheap front loader.

Steve

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Re: work opportunities downunder

There is a shortage of repairers (not usually called engineers here) in most rural areas that I have noticed. I found, a couple of years back, that an ad in the local area Yellow Pages will result in enough work to keep going – I started my business about 5 months before that new phonebook came out and struggled in that time, as soon as the phone boook was out I haven’t looked back.

Things are probably different in the main cities, but if you don’t mind being out of town a bit, you should be OK.

Australia is still mostly top load washers, but they are slowly getting the hang of front load machines and many of the brands here are ones that you would be familiar with.

Generally a service call is about $60-$90 (where the average wage is ~$150/day), so with low overheads you could survive on 3-4 completed jobs a day, 5-6 would set you up with a good life. If you want to work on stoves you will need a D electricians license, but otherwise no license is required for plug in appliances.

As an employee, don’t expect great pay, but it could be a good way to get used to the local brands before working for yourself.

Steve

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Re: Miele G646SC plus filling/drain problem

stylers wrote:Ok, I’m not going to try and fix it (even though i do part time appliance repairs), I’m just curious as to the problem here.

I have checked the pump, non return valve and drain pipe, and all seem ok. i did notice though that it seems to work ok on the prewash, and it filled to what looked like a correct level, but when i put it on a wash, it filled to the same level, but on later inspection there was more water in it. Maybe the inlet valve is passing ?.

If this is a machine with a “waterproof system” (the valve is at the tap end of the hose), this is very unlikely as these are a dual valve system and both valves would have to fail in the same way. If not a waterproof system then this is entirely possible. Does the machine fill at all between uses?

If the pressure switch is used as a safety switch in these, what happens if it actuates ?. Why is the timing of the drain pump so short ?

There are two pressure switches. One activates when there is sufficient water being pumped around inside the machine to operate the heater, the other operates when the machine senses overfill and operates the drain pump untill the switch resets.
The fill time and drain time are equal. When the pump is operating at full efficiency, the machine can drain twice the volume of water that the inlet valve will pass – if the inlet and drain are both operating, the machine will never accumulate water. (drain time should be about 1 minute)

Anyway, talking about miele service, this machine was looked at before for what looked like a leak which was tripping the float switch. I diagnosed it, they hauled it off, couldnt find anything and left it back, where it worked up until now. When i had a look this time, the float switch was just left hanging above some wires to keep it off the bottom tray. effectively disabled !!. that would be nice if it actually flooded..

Owen.

Unfortunately, there is always a range of service quality. My only comment regarding the above would be to not use that service company again.

Steve

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Re: Miele G646SC plus filling/drain problem

stylers wrote:Hi,

I have checked the pressure switch and tubing, and it seems ok. my guess is the pressure switch anyway..

thanks,

Owen.

And the short answer: A pressure switch is most likely dearer than a professional (It is in Australia). It can be much cheaper to have it fixed than trial and error parts replacement

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Re: Miele G646SC plus filling/drain problem

Most Miele dishwashers operate on a timed fill and timed drain cycle. The pressure switches are to check for overfill and sufficient water level to operate the heater.

The fill is controlled by a flow regulator inside the inlet valve and a set time so it is rare for these to overfill. Things which can cause overfilling are: a faulty inlet valve which doesn’t close fully or quickly enough, the valve being replaced by one with an incorrect flow rate or, on some models, a switch which extends the fill time (check the user manual for this)

If it is not draining properly, the likely causes are a blockage in the outlet hose or a worn impellor on the drain pump.

I would suspect the drainage as the most likely cause unless the machine has been played with or “fixed” by someone who doesn’t know what they are doing. I would never recommend anyone other than a professional to repair any Miele appliance as they are very advanced and it is easy to go wrong.

Steve

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Re: UK parts for OZ machines

That’s them. The motor is SOLE, but they seem to be interchangeable names.

The biggest problem appears to be the distance from there to here, not many suppliers will ship to Australia. Quite a few people bring their UK machines here though.

Steve

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Re: Miele G 646 SC PLUS Drying Fan filled with crud

While I am reading this from another part of the world, so I know little of local prices, the following should provide you with some useful information.

The problem you are having is not one I would recommend “having a go at”.

It isn’t necessary to use the manufacturer for service. There is likely a qualified independant engineer locally who would probably charge less.

If a service call includes up to an hour, then the important part is “up to”. If the problem was fixed in 15 minutes then the call was completed properly.

Clicking on the link below will help you find someone to carry out this repair.

Steve

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Re: Chef Royal oven element removal

If it lifts, but not comes out easy, then it isn’t designed to be removed for cleaning. Wrap the element in foil while cleaning the oven and remove it afterwards.

Steve

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Re: benchtop dishwashers

I’m not at all familiar with the thor, but as it is not a common brand, find out first if there is anyone local who can fix it for you if it breaks down or if parts are available. If it can be fixed, it’s worth considering 🙂

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Re: Miele G 646 SC PLUS – wash/drain cycle sticking

jamie0114 wrote:I have a similar problem on a G692 SC Plus but when I have taken the undertray off I have never found any traces of water in the tray or signs of leaks elsewhere. The dishwasher then works fine for a week or two before having the inlet light flashing again.
Jamie

Is it just the inlet/outlet light flashing, or is the pump continually running as well (which is what was happening in the above fault). The flood protection does not operate the inlet/outlet light so I think you have a different problem.

Intermittent operation the inlet/outlet light often indicates a problem with the water level sensor in the machine but there are enough other possibilities that I would recommend a proffesional for this job.

Steve

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Re: Miele Novotronic W827 not spinning at cycle end

I’d say the important thing is the light that is “flickering”, it is probably an error indication so we would need to know which light it is.

If it is the spin light flashing, that would normally indicate the motor spinning too slow, but that should also happen on just a spin cycle.

Steve

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Re: benchtop dishwashers

In australia I have only seen a few brands with benchtop models.
Asko – very good
LG – not recommended – these can have drainage problems

There are a few other brands I have seen on occasion but these tend to be in school science labs so are possibly a commercial machine – can’t think of the names offhand.

There are also some slim models available if space is tight – Bosch and Miele make very good ones at less than the standard width. I haven’t seen a recent Bosch one but they are probably still available, the Miele I saw was only purchased in the last 12 months.

Steve

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