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RocketMan
ParticipantHi, An update on this one.
On my first visit I checked the isolator switch for the hob. It felt okay and no sparking. It turned on and off with no issues.To cut a long story short…it was the cooker isolator socket in the end. It was replaced as perhaps this is the issue. No signs of burning or issues with the switch.
The customer has had no issues at all in nearly 2.5 weeks since the switch was changed.
RocketMan
ParticipantIt’s Chinese. Try minervaparts.co.uk…the supply parts for Bush badged Argos Chinese tat…I had to use them recently. They have parts for your model. I have just checked.
RocketMan
ParticipantHollytree_Technical wrote:Another thought for you – check what the power rating is for the circuit (is the hob max power more than the breaker?) – you can limit the maximum draw of these hobs in the user settings (Page 18 of the user manual).
Jem
Thanks. It has it’s own cct. Ovens are seperate and it’s been fine since install. Current tenants have been there a couple of year and no issue until recently.
RocketMan
Participantelectrofix wrote: most of the time if a power module blows it wont work again. most electronics destroys itself when things go pop
its seems to only do it when drawing power. could even be the wall switch or bad connections in that
Dave
Thanks. I did activate the switch a few times to see if it “felt” alright which it did. Obviously the long big load test is best.
RocketMan
Participantkwatt wrote:Did you check the ventilation as it could be overheating, just a thought.
K.
Thanks. I fogot to mention. No oven below. Large deep 30cm drawer beneath and a gap between the work top and the drawer for ventiallation.
RocketMan
ParticipantBuyspares say they have one in stock..
Not somewhere I would normally buy from but they do occasionally have older stuff that is listed as no longer available elsewhere.
Worth a try but pay with Paypal or another means where you can get your money back if they don’t have one.
Good luck
July 1, 2024 at 2:47 pm in reply to: Smeg Range cooker – access for a clock change – top off or access from the front? #490579RocketMan
ParticipantLawrence wrote:It will require a complete facia then, also may be worth changing neon lenses as they have a habit of crumbling on you
Thanks. I found out it was a complete facia. Cust doesn’t to pay for one. I’m going to glue the clock back on. I did see the neon lenses and I kept well away from them as they looke fragile.
June 24, 2024 at 11:15 am in reply to: Smeg Range cooker – access for a clock change – top off or access from the front? #490577RocketMan
ParticipantLawrence wrote:all knobs off, and clock buttons off , 3 screws underneath the facia, remove facia , clock slides off facia dead easy
Thanks Smeg expert. A bow to you. Yes it was that easy but the plastic mount for the clock is broken. All the lugs have snapped off. I could see the clock had dropped when I got there. I’ve just checked and there’s no part number for the mount. It’s not on the parts diagramme. I’m going to have to go back and put a dab of glue on it to hold it in place. 4 screws. I love that the contrl panel comes off that easy.
June 24, 2024 at 7:25 am in reply to: Smeg Range cooker – access for a clock change – top off or access from the front? #490573RocketMan
Participantkwatt wrote:TRL4110BL1 is not recognised but most are a hob deck off or up to get to anything.
K.
TR4110BL1… sorry my error
RocketMan
ParticipantBaumatic Date codes.
Tenant has to pay for breaking the hob.
I’m trying to age the hob as the hob seems to be quite old and perhaps they shouldn’t have to pay the entire fee?Hob BHC605
Serial number 7010030500.If anyone could help to age this appliance that would be great. TIA Steve
RocketMan
ParticipantDave,
As every, you’re a top man.
Rivetted TOC. Another step close to making thngs even more difficult and costly to repair.
Please, if you don’t mind to the TB. If you could email me that would be great. Might need it for my own AEG dryer.Right,now to find a reasonably priced heater… 🙁
RocketMan
Participantstratfordgirl wrote:I assume that should be FD 9302 – 10 years old not 20? Neff’s charges are fixed call-out & labour @ £106 (£117 inside M35), plus parts.
The display pcb is obsolete.
Power pcbs are £248 (left) and £219 (right) – both in UK stock.
Connector harnesses are in UK stock and pretty cheap (£17, £6, £6)
My bad typo. 9302. Thanks.
RocketMan
Participantelectrofix wrote:had a neff hob doing silly thing and it turned out to be blown cap on control board
very cheap easy fix
Dave
Excellent.
I was thinking about little things like that as well.I’ve I’ve fixed or got someome locally to fix lots of pcbs/boards. You’ve helped with a few of those repairs as well, Ahh than you.RocketMan
ParticipantAaaahhhh Why!!!!!!
I thought a simple Cooker Hood repair. 3 a fuse blown and bulb base stuck in bulb holder. Wait…where the plug?
Had to remove the CH after using my boroscope I found the plug and socket BEHIND the CH. Why? Nearly an hour for a 10 minute job. What an absolute PITARocketMan
Participantelectrofix wrote:Re: zdi6053 d/w lower door seal
sent you a pm with some info that may help
Dave
Old thread I know but I’ve got to fit the same seal to a difference appliance. A91151910109/ZDF2020.
Please tell me it’s not a door off job? Job is 530 miles away.. Yes 530 miles away on a remote Scottish island !! Callout fee is going to be massive 🙂
I looks easy enought but there’s retaining bar (hinge tie) !!Any help would be appreciated….
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