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Re: Busy in Bolton tomorrow then
this one is going to be discussed on the Vine show after the 1 O’Clock news….
Re: ESL6115
errrm got to worth a try – I’ll run it past the agency and LL tomorrow. It’s the running around/time they’ll have to be prepared to pay for incase it doesn’t work… I’m even going past a Maplins in the morning on way to garage so could pick a up a new relay……a bit of running about could save nearly ton for a new board…. ta, will let you know… tks
ps might have to dig my bike out like you, facing a big garrage bill for two new discs, 2 sets of pads and bearings on at least one corner 😯 …that lease vehicle is looking better every day…
Re: ESL6115
Thanks bigchrisoioi,
will see what the LL wants to do, tenants getting tired of using marigolds
ta
Re: ESL6115
Hi Folks,
Eventually got to this one. Albeit very late on a Friday. Heater terminals were A1 and D3 I think, (have to dig out the piccie later??) A1 was obvious so went along connetors until got continuity and only got it on one so had to be the the heater -26o. Wasn’t too much to get appliance out so dragged it out and double checked heater directly and confirmed I had correct terminals on pcb. Heater was fine 26 ish o..
PCB looked fine apart from a weeping cap. Lovely and clean. Relay looked good, all terminals looked fine. no obvious scortch marks apart from weeping cap.. Locally here, there’s an electronic engineer guy that I take faulty boards to.* He checked relay, apllied voltage to and tested relay again for correct operation… all fine. Weeping cap he removed and replaced (even though the weeping one tested ok) Checked all tracks and solder joints. He said all appears to be fine with the board. He did say as a precausion, he couldn’t 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} without a cct diagramme to confirm all connections on the pcb but is pretty sure it’s all ok :haier: :haier:
Need:
Help…
A cct diagramme. Two connectors for heater, one is big fat un (A1) tother is skinny buggar so does is switch via presure switch?? I know other Chris (P45) said it did switch from P/sw.
Open to suggestions.. Back Mon PM time permitting….
Customer says not heating and no fault codes. (not too sure how long tennants have been in situ?)* Only been using this guy a few weeks, he’s is very nearby and 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time will sort out stuff within the hour. Saves me trecking all the way to Maplins for a single item and ages trying to use my school boy soldering skills. His soldering skills put me to shame. So far he’s sorted all the other boards successfully for me. 😕 😕
Re: PAT Testing
these threads might help
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … at+testing
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ic&t=14858
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … ic&t=25706
I’m booked at a local college and the course is very popular, couldn’t get on the April course, had to go for May course.Don’t know about legal requirement but do a cost analysis Vs potential local market. (don’t for cost of equipment & calibration) I’ve been doing some local reasearch and there are a number of companies locally who offer PAT testing and if it wasn’t for some guaranteed work I probably wouldn’t bother. I’m still having second thoughts and I seem to be seeing a great variation in prices.
Re: Diplomat ADP 8242 (D/W)
try borken wires on the door pivot/hinge point
Re: ESL6115
bigchrisoioi wrote:you can check heater resistance accross A1 and C5 on the PCB ..should be about 25ohms ish…..this checks the complete heater circuit…..takes only 3-4 mins without draaging machine out…if you have the circuit, change the PCB,,,,,
A1 is the big relay terminal and C5 is the next small cable block to the left….i go accross all the terminals until i find the circuit as C5 is not always marked
MAKE SURE A1 IS NOT DISTORTED , BURNT OR BULGING…IF IT IS YOU NEED TO REPLACE CONNECTOR!!
hope it helps, Chris
Cheers Chris, had to re-schedule, awaiting spares for second job at same house, so new info will be useful. Will get back and let you know how I get on…. still hate integrated appliances I just know I’m going to have have this buggar out… never mind, tother job is supply and fit oven shelf and grill pan handle – now that’s my kinda job 😀
Re: oven temperature tester?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=220790
I got a tech reply from Maplins saying this one will work on shiney/SS surfaces.
I tried this one and it seemed to be ok apart from the SS control panel on the oven I tested. Kept giving really low reading, tried the magic board marker, it helped but I think it was the thermometer at fault.The glass door peaked at 71 degrees and the SS control panel was even hotter (scalding hot) but didn’t get a reading above 40 degrees.
Tried it again at home on our SS kettle, watched the temperature rise to about 40 degrees and it just stopped there.
Back to Maplins, money back and will have to wait until one of the better ones come in stock.
Don’t buy this one…….
Re: who would be a journalist …
..yep caught it yesterday from WikiLeaks – all I can say is gunho yanks….
there was no need for it at all, and when they shot up the van taking away the injured, that was just taking the we we..
Re: Hoover HFI3015-80
hi Phil,
they have got hold of the builders who installed it to come and sort it out. Just waiting on them getting back to me.
Thanks for your helpRe: WD860G srl 704020211 fan motor
thanks fellas,
C00098711 is in stock at MP – customer is happy but it was just an extra trip could have done without….
The good weather brought everyone out and about – manic it was, honestly manic.Sorry for mentioning the weather to you folks in Scotland. This afternoon I even put the air con on to cool the car down…..
😀 😀 😆 😆
Re: SGS43T72UK/30 FD8802 – no drain
Thanks leavemetogetonwithit & nomadPaul.
You were both correct – handy man had it in tool box for safe keeping….
Thanks fellas – have beer on me
Saved me a journey 😀 😀 😀
At least some thing is going right today, missed an appointment while stuck in traffic…..
Re: SGS43T72UK/30 FD8802 – no drain
nah, much cheaper version with cheapo,plastic base, give me a mo to check…….. ermmm having just checked the bsh site, i’m now not too sure. (was consious about puting all the filters back before testing)
thought it was only more expensive models had this, torx screw to removecurved impellor cover job. Remove to access non return valve. Steel base with plastic around filter area????
However looking at the diagrame….
page four item 522.
Filters were all stripped by the part time office handy man. who was out….
ermm got me thinking
Re: oven temperature tester?
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:If you’re only buying one to use on the odd occasion, why worry about surfaces? You can always write on a bit of the surface with a dryboard marker and wipe off after. That way you can get away with a cheapo one off e-bay. 😉
Mike.It’s cheap enough for use on the odd occasion. I will try the dryboard marker tip though. I’ll try with and without the marker and see how I get on….. good tip though.
Why not add to this thread???
