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Re: Indesit Door
It is the top lug thats gone. Its for a letting agent so ill see if they want a repair instead.
Thanks
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Re: zanussi f/f model ZNB4051
Those front pieces are a pig to get off, ive done a few now and i still dont find them any easier. There is definately bolts up the holes 6or7mm i think, but as i said you need a thin diameter socket because the hole is tight. Ive had to change a couple of fans on these.Check the fan switch too.
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Re: sgs43a22uk fd8209 bosch overfill
Is it definately over filling and not just leaking from a warped door seal?
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Re: zanussi f/f model ZNB4051
If its the one im thinking of, you have to unclip the vent at the front by pushing a flat screw driver up the slots located left and right while releasing plastic clips. Then there are 2 self tapping nuts that you need a narrow socket to fit up the hole to undo. These are a bit of nightmare to work on. The wires to fan and defrost sensors are all tightly strapped(pull ties) to the plastic housing at the back so its hard to pull the housing down or forward.I had to use an inspection mirror to see what was going on. You can manage to unplug the fan using the mirror .Its housing slots out out of the main plastic evaporator housing. You can test all the defrost stat, cut out and fan from their connections in a box at the back of the fridge.
Hope im talking about the right fridge.
Have done a few recently.Subs
Re: Connect Guarantee
Ive never had to return anything to connect under gaurantee but i imagine it would be a complete nightmare and they would probably not honor it IMO. In the past ive found them to be very unhelpfull when trying to return goods. Even when the mistake has been theirs ive had occasions where their sales people have been extremely rude and tried to blame me for their mistakes.
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Re: Smeg D/W F8
As i said in my post i did meter the diverter motor and had a reading through it. I also squeezed the connector to it. Thats why i was a bit surprised when in test mode it went straight to f8.
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Re: LEC F FREEZER CLICKING ON OFF
Hi fasetester.
The capacitor is to help kick start the motor. On the pins on the compressor to give you an idea you should get something like for example, 28ohm from common pin at the top (or bottom cant remember what way round they are on Danfoss) to one of the other pins. Then 26 ohm from common to the remaining pin. The higher resistance reading (28ohm) will be the start winding the other (26ohm) will be the run winding. If you measure between the run and start pins you should get a total of the two readings 54ohm. There should only be 1 or 2 ohm difference between the run and start windings. Also check each pin to earth too. I use a test cord to by pass the starter and run the compressor but thats a whole new explenation. A pattern start relay is a few quid so may be worth just trying one.Hope that helps.
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Re: John Lewis Compressor Tumble Dryer?
Im surprised the condenser gets hot enough to heat the air flowing through it to any great extent compared to how hot an element gets.
Im looking forward to seeing one.Subs
Re: Is this Ber??
Id repair it with some putty metal or if the hole is quite big some fibre glass and epoxy resin. The fact its at the top means there is less chance of any problems with repair. Must have been banging about all over the place with transit bolt left in.
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Re: Cheap Siemens – We’re Not Responsible….
Its not fair, i can’t see it!
When i go to the link the video starts and all i see is lots of bare female shins and red stiletto shoes and then it stops. I cant get it to play.Subs
Re: diplomat integrated dw ADP8352
Ive got an identicle problem with one of these machines.
Select any programme, machine starts by pumping out and then starts letting in water but continues to pump out at same time. First 2 led’s then flash.
Base dry, float switch ok, pressure sytem seems ok, nothing obvious on board. Im thinking control board but was wondering how Wizard got on with this fault or as this original thread is quite old maybe this problem and cure is well known.Thanks
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