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Call Liebherr on 0333 014 7888 and they should be able to give you a service agents number that covers your postal area.
Replacing the sensor and connecting it to the rear PCB is a tricky and awkward job, the position on the board is colour coded as is the sensor, in this case it is green. Fitting instructions generally come with the part for this type of repair.
If you can only see the air sensor, then the evaporator sensor will be foamed in, in which case part 9590084 will be required.
An Eliwell ID cool/chill controller will do the job, they are rated for 240v supply feed, some older units are 12v supply, you can check yours on the rating label on your old controller, if you have a 12v one you will need to bypass the transformer and wire the new controller to the 240v input supply from the transformer, ID cool very easy to set up, normally comes with an instruction manual.
The unit was manufactured in 2006, The issue could be a number of things like fan not operating due to excess ice or the sensor is malfunctioning, or possibly but not normal a gas issue or the compressor not pumping correctly, there are ways to see what the sensors are reading and to test individual parts like the fan to check what is going on remotely.
Call me on 07771545191.
Tony.Error 9 + 5 with Dynamic cooling light flashing in sequence is failure of the fridge evaporator sensor, either sensor you have mentioned will be fine to fit.
Call Liebherr on 0333 014 7888 and they should be able to put in contact with a repair partner in your postal area.
If the unit is running constantly, I would expect the internal temperature to be much lower than -23c.
If the temperature by your thermometer records a much lower temperature than the display indication, it is possible the sensor maybe out of tolerance, at -18c the sensor will have a resistance of around 13.5 kOhm, -10c 9.1 or -30c 25.4.
The sensor is still available, part number 6942118, but there could be other issues preventing the unit from reaching cut out temperature, like a weak compressor or a lack of refrigerant from a leak or as previously advised the condenser coil clogged with fluff.Has it ever had the condenser coil cleaned/ hoovered out behind the bottom facia? there is a fan that cools the condenser coil and the compressor behind the facia in front of the coil, also why is Superfrost turned on?
The joining kit needs to outside the unit behind the condenser grill, as it will not look nice dangling inside the fridge.
You do not have to strip back the two wires prior to inserting in the crimps, the evaporator sensor is located behind the cover which clips off at the rear wall, behind that the sensor is screwed to the back wall, you will need to access the rear of the cabinet and remove the top and middle screws holding the condenser grill insitu, remove the mastic putty and pull the old sensor out, cut off the sensor tip and use connecting crimps and box to join a short length approx 12 inches of the new sensor, reassemble in reverse.
The plastic parts are noise vibration dampers, the one in your hand fits on the compressor discharge pipe the black thinner tube below the sweating pipe.
Condensation is normal on the pipe as cold refrigerant is drawn back to the compressor. A through defrost may reduce the sweating if an accumulation of ice has built up on the freezer coil and pipework, this can happen, despite being frost free, a full turn off defrost is recommended one a year for general cleaning etc, you do not have anything to worry about from what I can see.
