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Any fridge, without a freezer section or ice box should be fine for outdoor use, if the thermostat can not cut in due to low ambient conditions then theoretically the fridge is cold enough.
If the pipe goes cool, then I would suspect the compressor is not running, the compressor is switched on and off by either of the three sensors on this unit. The freezer sensor and the fridge evaporator sensor turn the compressor ON, the freezer sensor and the fridge air sensor turn the compressor OFF. So its possible that either of the remaining sensors not already replaced may be faulty. First thing to try is to activate the super cool and see if the temperatures drop, when the super cool is turned on the unit will cool/freeze to maximum temperatures for 65 hours, if these low temperatures are reached the I believe you can then rule out gas or weak compressor problems, and concentrate on the other two sensors, which are the same as the one already replaced, part number 9590206.
Is the compressor constantly running ? if yes then sensors are telling it to run and cool / freeze, if not then something is stopping it, so there are lots of variables as to the problem.
We would need to know what actual temperatures you are getting in both sections via seperate thermometers, to confirm it is able to get to the temperatures required, before anything can be diagnosed.
Alarm value has to be exceeded for at least 90 minutes for an alarm to be set off (e.g. set value: -18°C , actual value at sensor at -13°C for 90 minutes, alarm) Visual: Flashing LED in the alarm Off button. During start-up the LED in the alarm Off button flashes until switch-off value has been reached. The audible alarm is suppressed
Dave’s advise is good, but if you can feel the ice behind the bottom of the rear panel it may require more than two days to completely clear all the ice, on this model if the freezer notices the freezer is not working to correct temperature as in your case with the ice stopping air flow from the fan, the electronics shut off the fridge to put all its cooling energy to the freezer to keep it frozen, the reason for icing could be the door was not shut properly.
Liebherr produce hundreds of models of units and each version of a certain types operates in different ways, some use one sensor in the fridge section to control temperature and defrosting, others have two sensors in the fridge and bio fresh units have three, there are also one or two sensors in the freezer compartment, some fridge freezers are a one circuit refrigerant flow and others use a solenoid valve, so as you can appreciate without being in front of the unit and having the full factory training it is sometimes impossible to advise precisely on faults and possible remedies posted on a forum.
Fridge evaporator sensor 9590206 required, located behind cover at the end of the light housing and screwed to rear wall in a fixing, freezer drain icing up which can cause severe icing under the floor cover has no recommended fix, but I have in the past placed a heat sink wire around the finned rod heater and then down the drain and renewed foil tape in drain channel, not a fix for a novice due to the complexity in gaining access without damaging cooling pipes.
Fridge evaporator sensor malfunctioning, need more info on model and index number to identify part number.
Agree naturally with Liebherr, expensive but build quality second to none, the ice will keep appearing in the top as its not freezing the whole back area for the thermostat to operate and carry out the off cycle defrost. If the system was able to freeze the whole back of the unit, it will make the fridge cool normally, and allow the thermostat to operate as normal.
Looking at the pictures you have posted, I would suggest the problem is with the refrigerant charge ( low on gas ) or the compressor is not pumping correctly, either of these problems mean the whole back area of the fridge ( evaporator ) is not evenly freezing over and the thermostat phial is sensing this, that will cause the compressor to run constantly and can cause very low temperatures. As the leak increases or the performance of the compressor decreases the temperature will rise, and the ice will disappear completely over a period of time. Internal gas leaks impossible to repair, compressor expensive to replace.
If you are able to remove the rear cover, you will see the ice and after a couple of days, you can hook out the remaining block to ensure it is completely free of ice. and pour some boiling water down the drain hole.
24 hours may not be long enough, ice on the floor under the bottom drawer is a sympton of the freezer drain being blocked.
In my experience the ice can be up to an inch thick in some cases and if not cleared completley, you will have the same fault and think there is something else wrong with the unit, my 22 years as a Liebherr Engineer is worth considering when advise is offered.
